What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

MEOW, MOTHERFUCKER!!​

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Hey if you want that invertor, it's yours. PM me your address and I'll pack it up and get you a price on postage.
**Full Disclosure: I never tested it, but it turned on and looked like it works since the owner had it hooked up still.

 

I performed an in depth multi day trouble shooting session to fix the fog lights on my '06 Tundra DC. Both lights went out simultaneously for no reason. After posting in here, some members helped me get to the root of my issues. It was a pretty difficult fix, but it didn't take too long to repair once diagnosed.

Any Tips on Removing the Relay for the Foglights? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Glad you got that fog light issue fixed, I know it took all the strength you had to turn that ring! Haha

 

I'm already running the ATS HD leaf pack in the rear. Guess we'll see with time how far they settle.

As for this noise... alignment seems to have made it quieter? I checked the steering rack bushings for play, and didn't notice any. Going to try disconnecting the sway bar later to see if I can rule that out.

 

The bypass seems to be causing fueling issues from what I can find. It’s also messing with the transmission shift schedule for some reason on mine I’m talking about removing the sais on the software of the ecm. Should prevent the limp mode issues. I’ve got a friend able to do it

 

Which springs and which circlip?

Wait for settle, 200ish miles or less if on bumpier roads. Then doublecheck your swaybar bushings after and make sure they're stil alright. Think about it. You just set them on suspension that'll settle. It has probably already settled a fraction of an inch. Those little increments will ultimately add up, and suddenly where you set the links may not be appropriate anymore.

 

This ultimately supports the warning I toss out there about the bypass kits. And you're not the first person I've seen write similar. This is also not the only vehicle I've owned with an SAIS-like emissions function that doesn't play nicely with perf upgrades.

 

Aside for OEM who makes a good HD tie rod end? I have to look but at full lock on turn I'm getting a slight clunk when I start moving, it's both sides. And yes I used Moogs, did them when I first did the ball joints. I know I know...

 

Detroit axle.

 

I went with the OME 2884s with perches on the lowest circlip. That's a good point, suppose I should wait till everything settles into place. Appreciate the 2 cents.

 

Knowledge acquired

 

Lower ball joints today. Pretty straightforward but my outer tie rod stud was spinning when trying to put the castle nut back on. Shot some wd on the threads and used the impact to snug it up, torqued down so should be good. Started to rain so passenger side tomorrow

 

I suspect it's because he modded his ECU

 

Correct. Deletion/bypass kits often cause issues with performance improvements. Been screaming it from the rooftops for eons and been told some colorful things for my opinion along the way.

 

Not what I'm saying.
He physically modded his ECU.

 

Yup. I understood you. Bypass kits can be fine ... until you take something from OEM/factory to no-longer-OEM/factory. Stack chips, plug-in programmers, misc performance add-ons.

 

Luckily for me, mines fine with mostly the same power mods, but a VF Tune.
I've heard about people having issues with the Hewitt in combo with the URD MAF calibrator. I was gonna ing to buy one and take my chances before VF tuner came out with our tunes.

I have enough issues with my other modded truck haha. I think when it's inspection is due in January, I'll replace the cats with Magnaflows. I think that should do the truck. I hope it does. Then I just gotta wait for my ECU Cal ID to be cracked. I wish URD made a MAF calibrator for the 00-04. They do have a universal unit that isn't plug in play. But Eff that

 

seems Detroit axel has decent parts

 

Yep that happens but is something I tend to forget after 100,000 miles. Putting the bottle jack under it to press the joint together a bit is usually all it takes to get that nut off or back on, if the stud is spinning.


In other news...I scanned through the cab water leak thread a few times after noticing discoloration along the entire edge of my carpet. Today we had a couple inches of heavy wet snow, which melted all day. Perfect time to investigate, because I also noticed most of my cowl grommets are completely MIA. Sure enough, dripping right here. Guessing the driver side does the same, but I'm parked on an angle so all the water is running toward the passenger side.



Luckily, since I already knew I was missing grommets, I have some on their way. This confirms it was money well spent.

 

And prices

 

Nope. It’s just one, sometimes two cowl fasteners just above the fresh intake box.

 

Hm, ok. Makes sense though, no staining on the carpet on the driver side opposite where it's dripping on the passenger side. I wonder whether the previous owner did his own leak-fixing from time to time. When I say the entire edge of my carpet is stained, I mean the entire perimeter of it is a slightly darker color. All along the passenger and driver side doors. To the point where I don't think it could just be the cowl leak anyway. Must be door gaskets. They're dry today, so I figure it's either something the PO addressed, or it only happens driving on wet roads with water spraying up at the door bottoms. Guess the car wash is a good place to test that theory...

 

I think we've all seen that exact staining your talking about when looking at sales adds... Mine has it too, I swear it wicks back along there because my doors aren't leaking.

 

My ECU is tuned/modded. By pass kit for over 3 years, zero issues. Plus URD MAF Calibrator.

 

Now I'm worried about getting a VF tune, if it messes with my SAIS by pass.

 

IIRC he did more than tune his ECU, I believe he had it physically modified. I couldn't comment on it beyond that, being as this is from memory and I don't know the details

 

It shouldn't.
It hasn't on my 06. Thing runs like a top with the VF tune, JBA long tubes, Dirty Deeds 12 hole injectors & exhaust, Airaid intake tube, and Hewitt bypass. I ran it with these mods minus the tune for a few years.

My 03, on the other hand, keeps popping a CEL for p0420 and p0430, with the same off brand cats as my 06, JBA longtubes, TRD catback, Volant intake, and Dirty Deeds 12 holes.
It of course doesn't have a bypass or a tune.


I would assume a decent tune would render the URD MAF calibrator redundant. Curious why you use it and a tune.

 

Good to know. I originally installed the URD MAF Calibrator with tune for it before sending in my ECU to R9K to maximize my power gains. It was nice for a while but I wanted more, hence the R9K tune, which I don't think gained much other than removing the governor. Fun times past 95 MPH. LOL.

 

Ah I see. Makes sense now.