What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I just need a tune tailored to all my bolt-ons I have now and be sure that it can override the current tune I have now. All the companies you've mentioned sound cool, but I've never heard of so I can't relay on their word.

 

They do, I gave my '06 away a couple years ago after doing woodgrain swap. I literally think I offered it up for free, maybe even covered the ride, I don't recall. Just trying to hook other members up. Mine was spotless.

The pain in the ass part of it is swapping the buttons and such over. https://www.tundras.com/posts/1851043/

If you can shoot me your VIN, I can probably hunt down the bezel p/n for you.

 

Toyota may have them, but the aftermarket one listed earlier will be a far better price. I didn't look up bezels, but did look up the center console just for fun. $940. Yeah there's a lot more to it than the bezel, but still. I'm sure Toyota is very proud of them.

I'll have to look closer at my truck. For some reason I haven't really spent so much time seeing what the interior has...I've been so busy doing mechanical maintenance stuff. I know I have leather, electric driver seat, keyless, wood grain, tow package, LSD, had a 6-disc cd changer but that's long gone, I think there was a speaker upgrade. Thinking that's it. Aside from the matched fender flares of course. I didn't realize a power rear sliding window was even a thing on these...I don't think I have one but that'd be really cool. Not upset about not having a sunroof.

 

Checkout this guy. It’s $400 but have heard great things. He installed my suspension 4 years ago. There is a lot of reviews for his Tacoma tune and gx470 tune. You can check out YouTube and he post a lot of story’s
https://www.instagram.com/moddedbyphil?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

https://youtu.be/CRmih1wdMJ4?si=GQgJ7sTx_qYHIy9U

 

Quantum Auto is doing their own thing, you ship them your ECM or buy one of theirs. They have a number of maps available.

A lot of the other tuners use VF Tuner based equipment. They pay for a license to tune as many vehicles as they see fit. Whereas the consumer level software will allow tune/adjustment to one vehicle. You can buy a tune pack or additonal tunes from VF based on your needs.

YotaWorks LLC is pretty reputable in the IH8Mud page. StormPeacock is a Georgia local tuner that can flash YotaWorks VF based tunes to a vehicle.

YotaWorks was awesome with how quick their responses were and they can provide a tune based on your specific mods.

As mentioned before, I wound up just getting a VF tuner so I can make my own maps. Marc with YotaWorks was awesome in his quick responses and knowledge of our engines. He assured me that they would be able to provide a tune for the mods I currently had (headers/D12/exhaust), but wouldn't for my goal of high PSI supercharger and E85.

 

Sounds a lot like DAP tuning but with better customer service. The only issue I see is that none are backed with Dyno results.

 

WHY NO 00 TUNDRA?!?!

 

@shifty` you don't happen to have (a) part number(s) for the bench seat foams for the 60 40 splitter with the arm rest?

 

I haven't decided if I'll keep the inverter yet. I haven't looked to see if it's any good. But I just got a pure sine wave inverter so I'll let you know soon.

 

I believe no one's cracked the 00-02 ECU's yet. Not sure what makes em different. I believe the 00-04 are all K-Line ECU's. I know some 03 ECU's like mine are at this time unable to tune as well. I figure we just gotta give it time. Also as mentioned you can send in your ECU to be tuned or buy one from some tuners. Not sure, but maybe y'all could swap in an 04 ECU. If mine isn't tuneable by next year, I might buy a pre-tuned ECU.

 

Nope, but you also don't want to pay dealer pricing on them either, shit's way too expensive. If you'll PM me your VIN, I can try to look em up though.

 

I'll get it to you on lunch today so 7ish Texas time. Thank you preemptively

 

@87warrior did it recently. He might be able to provide a link https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1939#post-3548302

edit: I found this link https://www.tundras.com/threads/rebuilding-seat-foam.88126/#post-2216786

and this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/replacement-driver-seat-foam-bench-bucket.130372/

saved link from @FirstGenVol https://www.usautoseatcover.com/pro...007-toyota-sequoia-driver-bottom-foam-cushion

search isn’t too hard

 

Found the foam for my bucket seat on eBay, simply trusting the sellers description. It worked out just fine. I can't say if the split bench uses the same foam as the bucket though.

For what it's worth, the search feature on this forum is terrible I've also quit following this particular thread because it is generally a hot mess unrelated to the FGT.

 

Still better than Facebook or Twitter.

 

I no longer wonder why I feel comfortable here, Thanks!

 

I can. I have an original bucket bottom on mine from @khooiii that is the exact same bottom for the 40/60 bench.

 

Put new driver bottom on my 2004 about 10 years ago:

71511-0C050 - driver seat bottom

SR5, not limited

update: part for Limited shown on post below

 

Thanks

 

Lower the driver a bit more and I think I'm good.
Ignore the lower tape lines, just comparing to other lower vehicles (all from ~42" from the wall)...

 

Update:

looking thru old emails with local dealer:

Limited, cloth, no power, 40:60

71511-0C060 - driver bottom
71051-0C040 - passenger bottom
71552-0C040 - driver backrest
71551-0C030 - passenger backrest

 

Cleaned throttle body and MAF. Wasn't experiencing any particular issues, just did it cause it's easy. Also ordered a pcv and grommet for the same reason.

Used a cloth, toothbrush and q-tip. Will see if I notice any difference, but I either way I always feel better knowing I've cleaned out some gunk.

 

Started the Bilstein 5100 and LBJ job this Saturday, but had to wait until today to finish due to having to wait for new tie rod ends and sway bar endlinks to come in. (Had the misfortune of ruining the threads of those while removing them.)

Hoping the 2884s settle a good bit... the front sits a bit high for my liking considering I have the camper loaded in full-time. Also, I have a new clunk that seems to occur anytime I turn the wheel left while the vehicle is in motion. Oddly it doesn't happen while stopped or if I gently turn in motion. I torqued the Bilstein lower bolts with the truck on the ground, and tie rod angles look fine too. I'm hoping it's the jacked up alignment from the new tie rods (among the other changes)... we'll see after tomorrow's alignment appointment if that sorts it out.

 

We’ve played with it on a physical level. VF tuner doesn’t support my calibration file yet.
The next attempt is going to be removing all the sais stuff in the ecm and seeing how that plays out.

 

Idk. I thought he did all Tundras, Tacos and Sequoia's

 

Why remove SAIS stuff when you can bypass it? Do you gain more power from complete removal?

 

That's just 1st gen section in general. If a post goes past the 1st page it's gonna get derailed. Half the time it doesn't even make it to the 2nd page before its derailed. It's like herding cats in here.

And yes, the search function is about useless.

 

my 2885's settled damn well near an inch. But you're not doing yourself any favors with the camper. I'd say give it about 2 weeks of daily driving and the springs will settle. Get a measurement of the front and rear again and get some new leafs. GeneralKC give about an inch or so. While ATS will give upwards to 1.5-2"

 

Those UBJs don't look so hot either...

But I'm curious if anyone has experience with them actually failing. My boots were torn and crumbling, grease long since gone, but the joint itself actually wasn't that bad.

 

replace it. Ball joints work via "no clearance" the grease/boot keeps dirt and shit out. Once dirt and shit gets in, it will begin to carve out the joint area and failure is just around the corner.

jack that wheel off the ground and grab the 12 and 6 o'clock position on the tire and give it a back and forth rock. If the wheel wobbles, the UBJ or LBJ are kaputz.

But it's one of those situations of, if that fails, especially while you're driving. It's gonna fucking suckkkkk. I personally would spend a little $$ now for UCA/UBJ (whatever route you go) as opposed to waiting for it possibly fail and replacing the entire spindle