Blown engine

Please share data to support this statement -

 

It would be real interesting to look at the knock detection on the failed engines to see if long term pre ignition is a factor.

 

It’s a chicken / egg debate at this time - did the bearing fail because of inadequate lubrication or is there inadequate lubrication because the bearing spun.

 

right- because Toyota is releaseing the data- this entire mess is all speculation and many stories of oil not getting to the main bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XdaccfMxn4&t

jump to the 14 min mark -and just keep reading through forums.

 

The issue is most certainly engine knock. A good engine with robust main bearings oiling can withstand some knocks, but the first degree reason of failure is knock. By preventing knocks from happening you simply eliminate the problem.

 

If I have to do more and use different procedures, oil, gas, etc. than what the manufacturer specifies in the owner's manual to gain long term reliability, then why would I buy from that manufacturer? I have to do this to over come their incompetence? Just no, I won't be buying from them.

 

Why? No data is presented. While the spread sheet in the forum documents failed engine, it does not detail what failed.

As another poster stated, forums/social media is a great echo chamber.

 

What manufacturers make the “good” list at this point is the question. I’m convinced my two 2017s will be the newest vehicles I ever own.

 

It will take quite awhile but someone will figure out less complex = longer reliability and take business away from everyone else or someone figures out how to make the complex easy to fix or last a long time to retain the reliability crown.

Short of that, you are correct, I think we are going backwards in terms of reliability. Maybe HD Trucks will be the way to go for truck needs as they aren't as affected by EPA requirements.

 

HD Truck are definitely affected by EPA requirements. The systems they put on diesels is horrible compared to gas. They have DPF, DEF and various other emissions requirements for "dirty diesel".

Edit - spelling error.

 

I dont believe this is an issue because an oil pump is typically positive displacement and so it will move the same volume of oil regardless of its viscosity or the pressure created.

You could always drain the oil from the 5.7L without removing the filter though since they had the drain mechanism built into the filter cap. Now that its a screw on filter you are kinda boned.

I was running 10W-30 in my GX460 and F150 here in UT for a while. Unless you are in North Dakota or something, and park your truck outside at night, there isnt too many places where you are cold starting below 0*F to often in the continental US.

The only thing I can think of is that they are trying to make 479 ft-lb at 2400 rpm using 87 octane. Otherwise, what about this motor is wildly different than other GTDI's?

The 2nd Gen 3.5L Ecoboost has the same compression ratio as the V35A but, when it came out in 2017, they were making 470 ft-lbs at 3500 rpm. Less torque at 1100 rpm more.

Even now, they are 500 ft-lbs but at 3100 rpm, so 700 rpm higher than the V35A.

Still though. I have a hard time believing its LSPI. If it was then the PCM should be intervening quickly. I have an easier time believing its thin 0W-20 oil and long OCI's. Or maybe a combination of the oil and some light LSPI. IDK.

At the end of the day though, I dont really think LSPI has been too much of an issue in the GTDI motors in real life. Like I said in other posts, bottom end failures have not been common at low miles in these motors from other MFG's. This seems to be limited to Toyota and one of the major differences I see is that no one else is specifying 0W-20 in these motors.

 

It wasn't a problem to start at single digit negative. And wind. The battery was still old, so it cranked a bit lazier, but once fired the engine had no problems running with 5w30.

 

Taking a guess by the shared video, you are not a fan of additives. Not all are snake oil and some have the data to show they work. There is also real world experience as a part of this. Cera-Tec and Moly has been around a long time. Ran the Moly in my German Sierra. A 2 liter Double overhead Cam Motor at 225HP. Immediately noted a drop in engine temps and smoother engine operation. Typically ran the autobahns in speed range of 100+MPH. Engine was solid with no oil usage. Snake oil-nope, worked as advertised

 

good oil changed frequently top tier fuel 93 if you can get it Shell VPower has the most detergent additives...also a little warm up and cool down when run hard

as far as additives this defines them all as snake oil with no benefit to a properly blended motor oil...in fact they increase wear! look for yourselves https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=MMXot2kuVQGpxbhM

If you believe in higher moly or zddp or detergent buy an oil with that spec is my 2 cents the people that formulate them make sure there is a balance in additive levels.
I definitely have used additives my last sin being Motorkote. I needed this cold slap in the face wake up call lol...

 

I thought ZDDP was a no-no anymore because it poisons cats.

ZDDP was why everyone put Rotella T6 in everything with a sump for a long time. The Subaru guys LOVED T6 and so did hte motorcycle people cause I guess it was compatible with a wet clutch.

Oil stabalizer like the Lucas stuff just thickens the oil. You can achieve the same thing by running a thicker oil in the first place.

 

Can your share A/B comparison data? Have actual surface analysis with periodic measurements showing film exists and long term durability? Testimonial data in a uncontrolled environment is worthless.

 

My brother !! My Coyote is the same. I use 0w-40 Pennzoil Ultra. It’s about due for another treatment if Certec. I do my oil changes every 3k, since I run E85. Got full Morimoto cooling system and. Ford performance water pump.

 

Very nice. Run Amsoil 5-50 Synthetic and two bottles of Cera-Tec. Average about 3500 miles a year. Only thing (normal) is pushes oil out the exhaust side catch can. Last change had a couple of ounces. The only complaint is everyone with a muffler tries to line up against me at a light. Wait until I hit 3rd gear and roll into the throttle and its over. It is a fun ride for sure.

 

It's the zddp level along with detergent mostly calcium that are limited for lspi purposes in Dexos certified oils rated 5w30 and lighter...I believe the limit is 800 ppm each for zinc and phosphorus and 1600 for calcium/magnesium. The lower zddp helps cats last longer and lower calcium fights low speed pre-ignition...important in our high compression turbo trucks. Truck oil like Rotella, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel and performance oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum have more zddp but only about 1100 ppm and are not Dexos certified. Too much can be as bad as too little here...some race oils have 1800-2000 ppm zddp. Run what makes you feel good but the science says zero benefit and possible detriment. Yeah some Lucas in a worn out engine might reduce noise or consumption, yes Marvel Mystery Oil can help free up a neglected old engines piston rings, yes, Seafoam can help clean out a neglected engine. That said an engine in good mechanical condition will see no benefit from additives.

 

I’ve gone through one motor already with my Tundra. MY 2022 TUNDRA blew up right at 15,050 miles on its one year anniversary. It took the dealership 87 days to get my truck back to me. And from my understanding, it was not replaced with a brand new motor because I found out they had the heads done at a local machine shop. At first, I was Beyond pissed off about this, and then I realized that was the best thing that they could’ve done considering putting a brand new Toyota tundra would be insanity, doing the same thing and a different result. Clearly Toyota dropped the ball when it came to these V6 motors, putting in a brand new one all that does is make for a high chance of failure again. I saw someone post their Tundra online saying they were on motor number three at 50,000 miles. So they may have put in brand new motors rather than rebuilt and that’s why he keeps Going through the same mess over and over again. Aside from the motor being poop, they put so much plastic inside of these trucks that the rattles drive me bonkers. I have removed my door panels and as much of the dash as I could just to dynamat As much of it as I could, but I still deal with random rattling coming from somewhere underneath the dash

I have already committed to the idea that if this motor fails, I will be doing an LS swap. I might even get mid 20s on them fuel economy MPG compared to 12 MPG in this POS.

 

BMW in their older M cars switched from 10w-50 to 10w-60 around 2003-2004 due to issues at the high temps/revs for those engines.

 

Yeah at this point even if I had info to share, the numerous threats in my inbox, combined with people finding me on linkedin and facebook and sending me messages there when I don't respond here, makes me never want to touch this forum again.

 

I 100% understand, people are just too stupid and they wonder why corporations don't say shit.

 

I really think earth is the ghetto part of the galaxy…
If there is other intelligent life out there, aliens just pass up this part of the galaxy. Considering how some act and carry themselves…
But that’s another thread/subject.

 

I have no doubt they lock the doors on their spaceship as they fly by Earth.

 

I tend to think a bunch of humans are actually aliens in disguise. Only way to justify a lot of odd behaviors I see.

 

Talk about dark oil for only 4000 miles on it… black

 

From your tundra?

Thats typical of the GTDI’s. They produce soot like a diesel, just less of it, so the oil gets dark really fast.

 

Repair is underway. But my engine that was shipped on the 14th is missing with no tracking information.