What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

From the talk of polycarbonate, anyone interested in a bulk buy of 1/8” HDPE? I want to do a tailgate panel to replace the OEM metal piece. But HDPE is $$$$ even in 1/8” and shipping is miserable. I could look into a local supply option if I could get a few others interested.

 

Dude, if you can see under the truck, it’s not low enough. If you’re gonna drop it, then slam it. I wanna see that thing sittin on the ground. And don’t start whining about having to notch the frame, you signed up for this.

That’s debatable.

you do have a lot of ‘thinking outside the box’ ideas, and many are on the better side, but cmon man. Let me just remind you of the snowplow/catapult front bumper idea. Just sayin……..
they can’t all be zingers

is that the white plastic used for chain guides and cutting boards?

 

if i'd have known college kids would be speedbumps again, my truck could be front
Page material.

 

Maybe someday. I gotta learn to fabricate or at least weld first. @Mr.bee found me this front bag kit I may try out someday several years from now.
https://airbagit.com/products/airarm-to20xx

For now I need to order the correct fitting lowering blocks from SOS and new u-bolts.
Next is to find a junkyard Sequoia front sway bar and get these 4.10 gears and TrueTrac installed. Finally I still await tuneabily from VF Tuner. My ECU's Cal ID currently is not supported

Right now this build isn't about being low, as much as it is about being sporty and general street hoonability.

 

Not today but yesterday I popped the Kenwood out the dash to try and figure out why its not dimming even though I have the dimmer on Sync mode. The Metra harness has the orange/white dimmer wire and the stock plug has a green wire in that corresponding spot. I could've swore it used to dim when I first put the Kenwood in it. I didn't think to check for 12v at that green wire though when turning the headlights on and off so maybe the issue is there and not at the Kenwood headunit. I also went ahead and ordered a Chinesium wireless AA unit with a capacitive screen so we'll see how it goes. Meh.

 

Comes in white and black but yes. Mountain Hatch has a thick as F design for us that I hate. I just want to replace the crappy OEM metal piece with something light with spots for cupholders and won’t bind against the tailgate rods.

 

But it would look SOO sick sittin on the floor. I'm not saying it's gotta be rollin 3 wheels on switches, I mean, that would be the sickest, but tryin to keep it realistic. Up front, just remove your shocks and let it ride on the bumps. Out back, just remove your leafs and strap the frame to the axle. It'll be a bit of a bumpy ride, but cheap and easy.

Man, I did a job at a manufacturing plant last year that made that stuff. Coulda probably scored a couple sheets for free, and should have. I got some pieces to mess around with, but they're smaller blocks, discs and cylinders, all at least an inch thick. Nothing big enough format for what you want to do tho.

 

So the rear I could slam this week if I really wanted to. The SOS kit flips the axle and the shackles. If I were to swap the stock shackles back in, the rear axle would probably contact the frame without a c-notch. If I were to bag the front, I'd probably do just that to the rear, except notch it. At least until I could link and bag the rear.

 

You're welcome



Sooo sick

 

Tight tight.

Now shave it and add some chicks

 

Grainger has it. If I remember correctly you don't pay shipping to pick up at the stores.

 

So after adjusting the rear brakes, bell cranks and taking slack out of the parking brake... The brakes feel so much better! The pedal engages much sooner and no more sponginess. Also now the parking brake is fully tight after like 8 clicks or so, which is in the range that the FSM recommended.

Everytime Id get in the truck after driving my other car, id think I didnt have brakes because of how spongy they felt compared to my other car. Always had to get used to the FGT sponginess. Not anymore!

Also added some shots of my rear seat delete/storage

And some shots of my behind the bumper cut away that I think came out pretty good

Also made a little bracket for my lil washer fluid reservoir since removing the stock one. Its kinda small but I dont really use it much so we'll see how it works out. I can get a larger one if i need to but for now it fits nicely just behind my passenger headlight.

 

Looks awesome as it is, but I think right here's about where you need to be. Maybe a little more up in the ass-end, half inch or so.

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But at that point ^^ you're roughly 2"-2½" lower front and rear than current. Here's what 1-1½" from your current will get you, which I think looks pretty f'n awesome also. Very sport-lowered truck appeal, ready for the strip.

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It was already up another inch before the block. I didn't hate the rake, but I much prefer where it's at now.
I asked Tom at SOS if he could make me a 7/8" block just so I could have the piece of mind of seeing a few more threads. He sells a 1/2" block as an option with the kit and he offered to make me a 1" block. Still no reply as to whether he can do the 7/8" or if he has any longer u-bolts. I'll email em again next week. I'm in no rush. The priority right now is to get the 4x4 back in action.

 

For some reason I had it stuck in my head dimming wasn't an option on our trucks, like, there's no dimmer wire support at all. Maybe I'm nuts, or maybe I'm thinking about my last truck. I've done too many installs, a lot of it is a blur.

 

For my 00 it dims when I turn the lights on, but I don't have control beyond that.

 

Nice. Welcome to the, “now what do I do with my air intake” club

 

What do you recommend? haha

 

Snorkel!!

 

Finally got my CB installed....

 

I have been having some steering issues lately where my wheel isn't returning to center and driving straight has the wheel slightly off from center, but only sometimes. I looked and I think I'm having some movement in my steering rack.
I'm curious if the slightest movement in the rack could be causing this issue? If so, what is the recommended remedy, new bushings?

 

Snorkel!
Series 100 LC snorkel on a FGT | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

@shifty` - back to U-bolts, I seem to recall from college engineering classes that hardened steel is more brittle than mild steel. Of course that was like 45 years ago and I may be wrong.

 

Possibly. I don't know the mechanical engineering component here, and how much more prone to bolt shear a fastener is when thread stretch occurs on mild steel versus no stretch on hardened steel.

As with everyone, i'd encourage folks to use their best judgement. I know what I do, and I haven't had any catastrophes in 30 years (knock on wood), but I don't expect everyone to follow my lead, I may just be lucky. YMMV, full disclaimer, you do you, yadda yadda (I hate the word yadda)

 

I been reading about U-bolts and I think the OEM bolts can be reused provided they were properly torqued and the threads are no damaged. The torque value of 80 ft-lbs provides about 15k of clamping force with is considerable less than the elastic limit of these bolts.

 

I ended up buying the 2-4" kit and he sent me the extra .6" spring mount for the front. I was going to install it after finishing the cat shield but had to fix evap issues first.

 

don't forget to Lambo your doors.

 

I like that side pocket upgrade next to the CB