What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'll let you know if it ever happens to mine.
You'll be the first to know.
I got you on speed dial.

 

ACBC

 

A hack mangler that needs to be punched in the face, and denied breeding rights. And made to sober up.

 

https://youtu.be/V01OuuGlbbo?si=BCiqYN15rJFlsgN8
chrisfix with the answer in the first minute.

basically they're one way vents to keep pressure from building up and shattering any tempered glass. Air can't come in therefore hvac is sealed and you're protected from the elements. But air can escape incase of excess pressure and keep the windows from shattering.

 

Crap. Just saw this. Not sure how I missed it when replying.

 

I just can't unsee the face

 

Something off the shelf like a kneaded sausage product will work fine for as small as the holes are.I would even be tempted to use regular ole JB with a packing tape dam on the backside. Sanding is going to suck, but its only a 1/4" spot.

 

Bare Grilles, don't make it drink its own pee.

Got all the FMS foams pulled and adhesive removed, scrubbed all corners, prepped for filler, waiting for it to dry overnight to start filling holes, so I can sand and skim it with Rage for final sanding and prime. Inner mesh pulled, cleaned thoroughly (it was nasty af!) and tucked away.

Gotta order 7mm and 5mm replacement foams for the outer and inner rims, respectively.

 

I'll fight all of you

 

AC is the OG

 

I have a mesh insert sitting in the box. I need to find another stock grille to cannibalize since mine is broken.

 

I have a DC grille in the shop. Got it from @wandering_boy. I'd give it to you, only issue is, it's white, chrome capped, and it cost an arm and a leg to get from CA to GA, so I'm sure it'd cost a fortune to get back. Then you'd need to paint. And one of the chrome rails lost a tab in transit.

 

That was my thought train also. I've got regular JB, and I have a stick of JB Plastic Epoxy. I was thinking the latter may be the better option, but I'd prefer to flow something in from behind with metal flashing tape on the face.

I'm going to let it dry out overnight. I may toss it in the oven at 150 for an hour or two to expedite. Drinking some coffee and mulling it over. Slept like shit last night.

 

Agonizing and day dreaming. Thinking about the next stages of speed. Ordered the Orange Virus VF Tuner and their 'canned' 2UZFE VVTI tunes. Still waiting on that arrival. (Side note: when that arrives I will show their 93 octane tune dyno results).

Got the VF tuner so I can adjust my fuel/spark maps as I add mods. But this brings me to my present dilemma...

Kelford 251/251 drop-in cams: $1,500

Or

4.30:1 ring and pinion re-gear: $1,000

I haven't decided which way to go next. I really want to see how a stock springed single pattern cam will do on this engine. It's 30*i/24*e longer duration with 0.5mm higher lift than the stock cam. About as agressive as you want to go with stock springs and without having to limit/disable the VVTI.

Buuuut I know how much quicker the truck will feel with 4.30:1 gear. Before the comments roll in, I'm running 285/60-R18 tires and don't want to be RPM crazy on the highway. Math says 4:30:1 will do better for my application than 4.56:1.

 

What rpm does that kelford move peak torque to?

 

Kelford advertises the 251/251 at increasing low to mid range power. No RPM value given.

Next step up are the 264/258 which are advertised as mid range but need their springs.

I've focused everything so far on increasing low-end torque. We mostly drive these trucks below 3,000RPM. I've picked up quite a bit of low end oomph with the Tri-Ys. Dyno showed about 40 lbs-ft off the rip with just DD 12 hole injectors, headers, and single 2.5" straight through exhaust.

 

Some trucks just have longer beds than others. Nothing to be ashamed of DCs

 

A bird in the cab is worth 2 in the bed

 

boooooo

 

Dont feel bad, some people just need a truck to be a truck, at least the DC isnt over compensating like the newer ones.

 

If the DC bed is deeper, doesn’t that mean it can hold more than the shorty AC?

 

More water? Tie-downs tie 'down' for a reason. The lighter weight helps a bit. The narrowness helps alot.

 

Where'd you find a new 4.30 ring and pinion for sale? I know Yukon used to have one but I think they quit making em. I thought you had to get lucky in the junkyard with a 00-04 V6 4x4 auto trans FGT

Also where'd you find tri-y headers?

 

Who you calling shorty? Last I checked the AC was an inch longer than DC lol

 

I got the last set of tri-y ever made by Stan before he retired. There's a company in Australia that make a mid-length tri-y for the 100 series right hand drive Land Cruiser but they won't fit the LHD Tundra.

Our only options for headers are JBA shorties or Dirty Deeds long tubes.

And Summit still carries a wide variety of Yukon gears for our trucks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-24589/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2006

Local offroad shop quoted $1,000 for parts and install. I've already got the factory LSD, but some spicier gears would improve acceleration.

 

Yeah I got some of the last sets of JBA longtubes. I'm also tuned and have the DD12's, so I'm excited to see your dyno results.

 

Red line: tri-y, DD 12 hole, custom 2.5 single exhaust.
Blue line: stock with DD 12 hole.

I'll dyno again after the VF chip.