What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah It was like surgery with two tiny flat screwdrivers, and still...
Hahaha there's always some Detail... looking at the tube I think I'm good.
But I have a feeling I'm going back in, to look deeper in there and possibly vacuum... and then there must be a drain to the outside there too.
I read some of the write ups on it a while back, but just jumped in today. Anyway the SS screws I used weren't really long enough so I will revisit after a trip to Ace.

 

Easiest safe way to do it I've been able to find involves arm yoga, giving it the 'ol reacharound, pinching each one from behind to release it. But even that can crack the wings, they may not separate but will crack still. It's kinda a joke. I'm glad I replaced all of mine. I should've sealed in the replacements though.

 

Pre-op picture. I had seen it before but it was getting worse in this photo a few days ago.

 

Ive got big paws and meat sticks, aint hapning lol. The ones I could reach in the open I tried but... snap. Those blue gloves are XL, and notice they are tight?

 

Someone's got scrappin' hands.

 

Back to topic though ...

A couple weeks back, I swapped out my front brake pads thinking they were the cause of my brake squeal in reverse. For the record, it only happens in reverse on my first trip out of the garage each day (cue @bmf4069), but it hasn't happened the entire 5ish years I've owned the truck. I can't remember if it was happening before the lift or not, but I assumed it was just aftermarket pads the PO used, or lack of brake quiet between the shim and pad. The pads he used didn't have shims, the pad had a raised area where the shim would be.

Anyway, needless to say, after the new front pads, properly shimmed, I'm still squealing in reverse if the brakes are cold and I'm in reverse only. Sometimes I can feather the pedal into just the right position and get it to stop. Maybe it's actually coming from the rear and started after I brakleen'd the rear driver hub after shearing two wheel studs off last year? Hell if I can remember, but I see a shitload of others complaining about it. Meh. Do I just need to open everything up in the rear and silglide the shit outta it?

I think I'll setup my phone to record my next back-out from the garage to see if it's the rears or front in reality.

 

Mine has done it pre and post brake job, same with the 4R. I get the same results with feathering the pedal as well

 

WITAF? How did I go 3 years without it, and suddenly it came outta nowhere with a vengeance? Surely there has to be an explanation for this.

I think I may spend tomorrow bleeding everything just for shits and giggles, video to confirm if it's front or rear, and if rear, pull my drums and re-clean/re-lube everything. It's like nails on a chalkboard for me.

Maybe if I smother my shoes and pads with Silglide....

(j/k)

 

To me it always sounds like the rear squawking, I notice if if I pump before I engage reverse it doesn’t do it…….

 

I'll give that a shot tomorrow if I leave the house.

 

Front wheel bearing swap Qs...

Have understood need to cut the rotors if put on new pads with dissimilar material or the new material won't bed in the rotor. So swapping pads without turning works if swapping the same pads. Maybe that's an issue?

 

Awesome, thanks! I got the 7 way mostly hooked up today, but still need to finish everything with the controller. Had every intention to finish it this weekend, but I got fuggin sick on Friday and tackled what I could today.

Spent 30 minutes trying to route the blue wire through the grommet by the brake booster, figured that was the lord telling me to stop screwing around and go eat dinner.

Side note, anyone know what this empty connector is for?

 

That sucks. Those kings?

 

Yes sir. I have to admit I’m rather abusive to my truck on a pretty regular basis, and things break/get broken. Didn’t expect this one tho.

 

You might be mad when you find out....

It was there before and after pad change. I seated the brakes appropriately, how I've always done. FWIW, they did appear to be the same material, but I still haven't pulled the used ones out to see who/what they are.

 

Bro, if you tell me that's the factory brake controller connector...

I've searched online and could neither confirm, nor deny, so I went ahead and ordered the adapter just in case.

 

Looks a lot like where my factory tow package brake controller plugged in.

 

That sure would be swell! It was my first thought, but everything I heard and read online led me to believe it just wasn't a thing on pre 03 trucks...even if I had the 4 way and hitch receiver; which I do.

Should've just pulled the GD panel off in the first place.

 

No promises, but yeah, that’s what mine looked like and in that location. It’s not enough wires though, so…

Is there anywhere you can access build info on these trucks, like through the Toyota site? Everything I can find also says no tow package wiring pre ‘03.

Maybe pull out a multimeter and see if you can figure out what they do.

 

Yeah, definitely doesn't have enough wires. I knew I was going to need to run the blue and power for the plug anyway.

I'm gonna stick something in there, though!

 

Perhaps one of your calipers is not retracting quite enough.

Other ideas,
Cleaning and regreasing the pad alignment pins, removing the pad springs clips and slightly bending them outwards before reinstalling (or replacing). Greasing the top and bottom contact points on the pads.

finding out which wheel is making the noises will bed step one.

 

Finally got some fancy weathertech floor mats.

Fronts only after I recalled @shifty`'s debacle with rear fitment.

 

How bad is the squeal? Mine do it a little bit but not enough to mess with. It could be something as simple as dirt/grime on the rear shoes. Might be worth shooting each side with brake clean and then applying new sil-glyde.

 

Hey guys, popped off my drums this weekend and gave them a good cleaning per @FirstGenVol (I think). Took a bottle each side just like you said, haha.

So I wanna adjust my star adjuster a bit more and afterwards adjust the bell cranks. Per the FSM, it states having like .04 - .08mm distance when pulling a bit on the bell crank away from the backing plate and then setting the adjustment screw. Not sure how far to pull before creating that gap and then adjusting the screw. Anyone have any info on adjusting the bell cranks?

I saw a great Youtube video that a tundra owner posted but he didnt mention pulling on the bell crank to create the gap to then adjust to around 1 mm. Sorry for the confusing question, but im confused lol.

Anyways heres a shot of a cleaner brake drum assembly! Also a bonus to using all that brake cleaner is I felt pretty euphoric after inhaling a bunch of it! JK

 

Did you lube the contact points in the drum mechanism?

 

My brakes will randomly squeal when they're cold on the first brake. Usually happens after rain. My assumption is my pads aren't being retraced far back enough and some rust forms. I hit it with some brake cleaner and it hasn't done that since.

guess it's time for gx460 calipers @shifty`

 

I lubed 3 areas on each shoe that a video mentioned where the backing plate is raised. Is there anywhere else I should lube? Im gonna be opening them up again today to have a look and do some adjusting.

The guy in a video mentioned adjusting the star adjuster until the drums are kinda difficult to slide back on and that gets you in the ball park for proper adjustment. Gonna try that today as my drums seems to slide on too easily. I guess you can also adjust after installing the drums and listening for the drag as well. Im still learning as ive never worked on drum brakes before.

Also I used Hi temp disc brake/ wheel bearing grease for my lubing. Is that the proper lubricant to use?

 

Anywhere two pieces of metal touch in the mechanism is worth a little lube. You wanna go easy in here as there will be lots of brake dust production. Pivots, starwheel threads and contacts, brake cylinder to pad contacts, PB mechanism contacts etc. And brake grease is fine. I just smear some on with a finger, I don't leave any globs in there.

 

I'm good with my 13WLs, they actually perform extremely well. Better than many other trucks I've owned. It definitely is only on my first brake when truck has sat, and only in reverse.

I cleaned and re-greased the alignment pins per usual when doing pads, which were in fantastic shape. If they're out anyway, I'm going to tend to them. It sounds like it started more on the driver's side, but if I roll down the windows before backing up, it sounds like more than one wheel.

Other thing I guess I noticed is, around the time it started (within weeks, maybe months, at least), my pedal has been firmer in the truck if it sits for longer periods of time, to the point it won't push in at all until the truck is started if it sits for more than 2 days, like I'm leaking vacuum on the booster. This is a complaint I've read about from others on here, so I didn't think anything much of it. I bought a new boster check valve and grommet for the check valve. The vacuum hose looks fine, so I wasn't suspecting it as the issue of a potential air leak. Not sure if the two could be related, tossing it out there.

I may end up doing that today. I've got some other stuff I need to knock out in the morning. It's just getting to the point mosquitoes are becoming a bitch over here, so I'm eager to get any outside-the-truck stuff done STAT before mosquito season hits full tilt.