What kind of camper do you have???

That's why I'm thinking the 600/6000# one from them would be sufficient, but maybe the 800/8000# for wiggle room. I just don't want to damage the a-frame.

 

the 800s on that light of a trailer is going to be harsh on the ride and the trailer.

 

That’s my thought too. It came with 800#’s from the guy I bought it from and seemed like a rougher ride than I was expecting

 

Yup. Some people think more is better. And in some areas, it is. On a WDH bar, not usually. I actually found my maxed out 800s gave a much better ride (and marginally less performance) than the 1ks Im.currently running. I read it on this site that the tundras like a softer setup, and my experience matches.

 

If you're not sure, might be worthwhile seeing if you can weigh it to get a realistic hitch weight. It will definitely be more than 370 lbs but it's hard to say how much more.

 

Oh I agree. Just waiting to do some repairs on it before we load it. I know I won't get a true weight but if I can get it relatively close to travel weight, I think that would work.

 

I pull a 25’ Airstream. Have for years. I switched to Bilstein shocks, E rated tires, and added a Roadmaster Active Suspension. I know these modifications do not increase the door sticker number. They just make pulling the trailer easier.

 

My 2012 does not like heavy tires. I've battled steering wheels shakes with D and E rated tires. That said, with trd sway bar, sumo springs, good quality P-rated tires, proper air pressure and a good wdh, it pulls my 30ft Jayco well.

 

Interesting. I’m almost done with the Cooper Discoverer E rated 20” tires. No steering shake, but a noticeable drop in mpg. I’ve been contemplating going back to Michelin tires, and away from E rating. I did add a TRD sway bar also. I pretty much did everything at once, tires, shocks, sway bar, and RAS. So, I’m not sure what made the most impact on reducing the porpoising we were experiencing when we switched trailers, from 23’ 500# tongue weight to 25’ 900# tongue weight.

 

I've liked my Yokohamas G015s in P275/60R20. I run 40lbs in the rear when towing and it doesn't feel squishy to me at all. The WDH does a lot of the work. I have a Husky centerline hitch.

 

I ran Yokohamas on my 4Runner for years. Good tires. I’m not familiar with the Husky Centerline hitch. We’ve been using a BlueOx SwayPro hitch with our 25’ trailer for four years now. 25’ airstreams are notoriously nose heavy, so very little chance of sway. I usually stay around 65-70 mph. That way I can at least get 200 miles out of a tank of gas. Ha! Also slower is better for reducing sway also, at least from what I’ve read.

 

Slower is always better for towing. I always roll my eyes a people doing 80+ mph pulling a trailer with a half ton pickup. Trailer tires are commonly rated for speeds much lower than car and truck tires.

70 max for me. I usually keep it just below 3K rpm in 4th gear. Whatever speed that is....67mph?

 

Not many RVs are built with enough quality to run above 65 mph. They built so shitty they in danger of coming apart north of 65.

Most trailer tires are rated for 65 mph as well.

I'm never impressed with the goods running 80 dragging the RV.

 

Interestingly, my Carlisle trailer tires from Discount are rated for 81 mph. I feel like 70 is top speed for any towing.

 

I have Goodyear Endurance trailer tires on our camper. They are rated to 87 mph. I haven’t tested them at that speed. I do run them below the listed max pressure. (65 psi vs 85). I also watch pressures and temp with a TPMS.

 

I have those on my Lance and will drive 75 as conditions permit.

 

Upping my game to deal with the extreme wind. And for using the Sherline scale and sites with side slopes. Wind coming off of Horsetooth reservoir can be biblical

 

Would you guys suggest using the Fastway flip-jack for a TT? I'd be worried about stability?
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot

 

They don't show it fully extended. It might have a little fore and aft play even fully extended with weight on it.

 

Are you needing additional height from your tongue jack?

 

Not necessarily. Just looking for other options aside from carrying extra weight in the form of a 4x4 with a 2x4 stacked on top of it for when it's needed.

 

I carry a 4x6 block of wood and slip that under the jack. Not very high tech but it works and saves me the cranking time with the manual jack!

It does look like an interesting add on that could replace the wood block. my trailer has 500 lbs of tongue weight so the static weight wouldn't be an issue, I do think that there would be some slop in the connection which might be felt in the trailer when moving around inside it (sort of along the lines of @Retired...finally).

 

I use and recommend one of these, or similar...

$50 ANDERSEN HITCHES | RV Travel Accessories | 1-Pack Trailer Jack Block w/ Magnets | Quick Leveling Stabilizers for Trailers Jackstand Level Quickjack Heavy Duty Utility Blocks | 3608

Amazon.com: ANDERSEN HITCHES | RV Travel Accessories | 1-Pack Trailer Jack Block w/ Magnets | Quick Leveling Stabilizers for Trailers Jackstand Level Quickjack Heavy Duty Utility Blocks | 3608 : Automotive

 

I have found the drum style blocks are all the height I need. I appreciate the intended purpose, but I wouldn't be able to use that just because I already don't like how much movement is in the tongue jack when extended over 50% and that with a slide on/pin in foot.

 

And that doubles as a porta potty for the ladies.

 

That was my reasoning. I read that the jack and stab's are at their best when not extended past 50%. Parked in my driveway, I have it up 6" before the foot. I guess I'll give it a whirl. Worst thing is I would have to take it off.

 

Report back with your results. Concerns could be unfounded and it may be a fantastic solution.

 

Probably I shouldn’t post all of this here. I just found a camper mods thread down in the thread queue. The square blocks I purchased — for my needs, the thought is these will be multipurpose. I can use them under the corner scissor jack supports, they are just wide enough for that. This helps me deal with cross slopes. I can use them in the front, one or maybe more if necessary. The front jack on my ORV is pretty long, but I like to keep a significant amount in the sleeve. I like the 50% rule-of-thumb mentioned. The last thing is I can use them to help with is to weigh the trailer tongue. Also I like that they’re black.

 

A bucket over your jack is also a good way to keep it protected and keep chains out of the way...