What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

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More or less this.

I always felt like the voice actor of Space Ghost was heavily influenced by Art Bell.

 

Thanks to whicheveroneofyou suggested it a while ago, just now I finally got off my arse and extended my grey RS3000 antenna wire. Did 090IIU terminals and connectors then snaked a 16 gauge up the A pillar and coiled it in the headliner. Way better range now, downright fantastic. Great mod.

Next will be the FM antenna, someday. Definitely itching on these small things. And gentex too, gotta get that done.

 

I had better luck with the RS3000 than RS3200, in that regard. I need to redo my splice and coil the end. Maybe it'll work better for me then. Glad you got it working though! The range on my 99 Tacoma after doing that mod was so much that I could unlock the truck and it would relock before I even got to it haha

 

Question for you guys.

I saw a couple pages earlier there was talk about adjusting rear brakes and parking brake.

I looked at my LSPV and noticed its adjusted upwards, "the nut towards the sky", almost all the way up. Is this too much rear brake? I have no experience with drums and parking brake, but when I noticed that and looked at other pictures of tundras online, I didnt see any adjusted that much towards the end of the bolt.

Also, I see they have LSPV brackets that are used to adjust the position of the entire LSPV assembly upwards to account for having a lift. Is this something I should do for my LSPV since I have around a 1" lift in the rear? And the extra weight from my camper would make me need to adjust the bias upwards as well?

Thanks guys!

 

This is literally mine, I think I have one, maybe two threads visible on the end: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/page-2#post-3360528

 

Thanks, Ill have to try some adjustments and see how it feels. Probably gonna make a bracket as well and see how I like that.

 

I'm in Fresno.

 

Mine is all the way to the tippy top and I’ve liked it so far, I also adjusted my rears pretty far out so it grabs nice

 

Brake Czar @FirstGenVol himself recently did both, I think, and reworked some stuff on his drums. He may be able to provide some poignant input.

 

When you adjust the rears, are you just listening for some drag when spinning your wheels when they are off the ground? Do you remove your wheels? Is there a general idea for how many revolutions they should freely turn to get the brakes adjusted correctly that way?

Thanks for all the brake info guys! I did read your sticky @shifty` about brakes. Fantastic write up!

 

So when I did mine, wheels were on so I could get more torque to the axle, but it was kinda weird, they dragged when spinning in reverse, but going forward I felt comfortable doing more clicks, I could probably even go a little more….

 

Thats what i kinda experienced when I spun mine and adjusted the other day. Got a slight scraping noise one way but then none the other. Cant recall which directions though, ill have to try again this weekend.

I was wondering, what happens if I overdo it? Can I reverse by I believe pushing that adjustment lever in to spin the star wheel the other way? Can that be done, albeit blindly, from the back of the drum with the wheel still on?

 

Supposedly it’s possible, might need some pick type tools and a flat head

 

Yep, thats the diagram I saw that showed a pick with a 90 degree at the end can be used to undo the adjustments.

Never gone too far with it then im guessing?

 

If you over tighten them you have to back them off and start the process over. It's a pain but gets easier with a little practice. Sadly I have too much practice with all of this.

To back them off you have to push on this lever from the peep hole and then turn the star wheel.



This may not be for our exact truck but it's the same concept. I just found it on the Google.

 

I think you’ll know before, you go to far

 

@oscardog86 how many miles on the truck? My rear shoes lasted almost 200k miles. If you haven't done any work to them it's not a bad idea to pull the drums, clean everything(1 can of brake clean per side if they are real bad) and lube the contact points.

 

In theory, you should be able to get it close, then set the p-brake a few times to click it in the rest of the way, right?

 

I did just that, and didn’t notice much difference, so that’s why I’m thinking I could go further, little increments at a time

 

Huh. Was the p-brake moving the tensioner as it should?

 

In theory but not in practice. When I replaced my shoes last year I kept using the parking break. I could hear the start adjuster turning. Eventually it stopped and I assumed it was good. Took it for a test drive and I had essentially no rear brakes. I had to dial them in manually.

 

I’m a one man band, so I couldn’t or didn’t try to notice……
Doing diffs, my rear drums came off relatively easy, and I know they should be more difficult if the shoes are adjusted properly. I have no seal leaks so I’ll keep crankin them and hopefully not have to pull drums anytime soon

 

Just hit about 112,000 miles on it. But as far is a I know the rear drums have never been cleaned. Might not be a bad idea to give a clean and lube like you recommended

 

Just made a quick little bracket after work today for my LSPV. Raised it about an inch. Ill give it a try soon and see how it feels.

 

What is on the front of your truck @The Black Mamba ?

 

You're the best!

 

Oh by the way, just wanted to give some feedback on the Perry Parts bump stops.

They felt much better on the harder hits coming down off rocks or small ledges than the stock ones. They engage earlier than the stock bumps, so even on washboard roads they were giving some cushion that softened things up as well. Really impressed with these bumps and really think they have an edge over the competition in design and price!

There are some interesting videos that Perrys parts have put out that show how they work a little differently than the other bump stops out there.

I also really like helping out a small husband/wife business that is making them here in the USA. They even are offering new Gen 2 bumps for free to anyone that was an early adopter of their Gen 1 bumps that they started making about 2 years ago!

 

Just a reminder, you got fronts or rears or both?

It's the price. The price has been the big turnoff for me. I'm grasping at the OEM stops for various models are less than $50 each, some less than $35. And they last a lifetime. You've got folks out here selling aftermarket 3d printed stops for 5x+ what OEM runs and you can't tell me they'll last more than 4-5 years going out one weekend day per month. If the pricing was more realistic, I'd be all-in. If I could do my entire front and rear in a kit with everything for $200, I'd be all-in. But most of what I'm pricing out with everyone rangers from $350-600 with shipping. OEM I'm looking at around $150 with free shipping.

I'd be on here repping up a storm, talking up products if I knew the longevity was there and someone could consistently overhaul all their stops after lifting for $200-250/shipped.

 

I agree about the price. That was the big reason I never could justify upgrading from stock as well.

I just did the front bumps, as I already had the Archive Garage rears.

Perrys fronts, with the discount he has came to just over $150 for all 4 front bumps. He does recommend replacing just the "front" fronts and keep the "rear" fronts stock as an option, and upgrade all 4 if you want a more progressive feel. I ended up buying all 4 and getting rid of the stock front bumps completely.

We'll see how long they last but he does have a pretty great 2 year warranty to replace if anything happens with no questions asked.