Tundra Fox 2.5 coilover height

I understand that you’ve sent me that before my question is how do you calculate
The total lift I’m getting.

 

I’m at max shock length 20.5” and I’m
getting more then 2 inches on the 0-2”

 

I got like 4.75" out of a 3" dsc coilover. Bolted it up today, going to slightly loosen then torque down tomorrow and see if that changes.

 

How much lift/lower is 1 360 degree rotation of the split ring?

 

.125 per turn btw

I'm at 24.25 driver and 25 passenger fender to center hub

 

Hello all,

just for more input I was at about 3 5/8 inches+ on a 4.6L double cab (light for tundra) out of the box on resi 0-3 model. Adjusted to 1 and 2 threads showing to attempt to get to @AccuTune Offroad recommended sag settings/ride height article suggestions. Could not quite get there but truck looks great at 3” of lift and 24 1/2” from center of wheel to fender and within 1/2” of accutunes recommended ride height( possibly better when vehicle is occupied?). I also noticed fox changed their compressed and extended lengths on the website so not sure if that factors in. Shocks are riding great though.

Also, I don’t see it mentioned a ton on here but lower control arms hit shock shaft at full droop so I dremeled about 1/4” for clearance and repainted ( fox engineers didn’t test this?). I had to remove shocks again to do so if I had to do over I would do this during install to save work.

 

This is very frustrating and will take some time for us to adapt to this. Looks like Fox has changed a few shock lengths and are not measuring from the center of the bolt that secures the top hat to the coilover. Previously they were measuring to the to of the top hat. Not sure why this was changed. For our suggested shock lengths, we will continue to use top hat method since its easier to see and measure to.

I'm not sure I understand this part. Shock shaft hitting lower control arm? Can you explain?

 

had to clearance dremel that radius about 1/4” around whole perimeter. At full droop aluminum shaft or shaft cover of fox 2.5 was binding on it. Just barely but I did not want to risk impacts on shock shaft. May have not been a big deal but seemed like a problem waiting to happen on my brand new shiny shocks.

 

Ok, you must mean the black anodized rod end, not the actual shock shaft. Got it. I wasn't aware of this issue. Did the truck already get an alignment?

 

Gonna take a moment to recognize @AccuTune Offroad for being actively engaged in the forum. I'll be looking to yall when it comes time for my next set of shocks/coils.

Why are yall not set up as a vendor?

 

Hey thanks! Happy to help when we can.

And great question, added this account just to help with tech stuff mainly, but more than happy to be signed up as a vendor. I'll reach out to the mods.

 

Here is pic of my shock and where it was hitting. I read somewhere on the forum others having this issue as well but doesn’t seem talked about a lot. It is aligned after height adjustments and numbers came out pretty well. 3.0l 3.1r caster, -.01, -.02camber, .11, .13 toe. Caster was maxed on right side most I could get with JBA uca.

I agree, thanks accutune! I wish I had bought my coilovers through you guys but found a price I couldn’t pass on. I will most likely try to get some rear shocks through you when I’m ready.

 

When I installed mine, I had to cut that area on LCA as well so the coilover would not hit it.

Also curious if anyone else has experienced the front wheels sitting further inwards after install. It is like 1/2" difference between the front wheels and the rear (driver's side was measured since it is known the passenger side sticks further out anyways). I have very few threads showing on the c/o and JBA UCAs. Maybe it's an alignment issue, but wanted to see if anyone else had encountered this.

 

My shocks were also hitting on my lower control arm as well as on the sway bar links. I got my 2.5 non-resi coilovers installed about a month ago and noticed that on turns I seemed to have metal to metal contact. I ignored it for a bit, thinking it was a normal sensation because my setup was breaking in. About a week later I got down and saw my shocks were chipped pretty bad. I had to take the truck to another local shop so they could grind about 5/16” off the lower control arm. It’s probably just a cosmetic issue but I’m still pretty bummed.
I called the shop that installed them. They said they’d never heard of that problem. They contacted Fox. Fox said they’d never seen that issue. It’s very hard for me to believe that a 4x4 shop and Fox haven’t heard of this. Turns out it’s due to improper alignment. Since the shock is thicker, the camber has to be adjusted in the lower and pushed back so the shock does contact the lower.
I’ve since had it realigned at another shop and it seems the metal to metal contact is no longer an issue, though I’m still somewhat flustered and am constantly trying to hear whether there are any more clunk noises or sensations as I make turns.
This leaves a sour taste in my mouth. The coilovers are not cheap, and though it’s probably just cosmetic damage, those expensive coilovers are chipped and I’m the only party that took a hit.

 

I just picked up Fox part number 880-06-947, 2.5” with RR and DSC. When I was researching I found mixed results, some vendors saying 0-3”, others saying 2-3”. Now that I have the physical box, I see mine are stamped 0-3”. What would the difference in 0-3” and 2-3” be? Is the 2-3” shock longer overall? Or do they just change the preload from the factory?

I only want 2” of lift just to level the front. Possibly some coach builder shims for the lean, and +1 shackles to bring up the rear a little higher.

Judging by all the previous posts, it sounds like I should spin the preload collar all the way to the top to keep it as low as possible (lowest amount of preload). But since I bought 0-3” would that mean 0” of lift??? Post #53 shows the least preload but still managed some lift, so these coils can’t possibly provide 0” of lift.

Anyways I’ll provide some pictures of the new shocks with some measurements. Mine appear to be evenly loaded from left to right, showing maybe 7 or 8 threads.

 

Mine are set with the least amount of threads showing that i could and i still have at least 3" of lift. The 0-3" is very misleading. If you have a heavy front bumper then you could maybe get the front end to sit lower.

 

Fox made changes to their shock lift height descriptions. It just hasn't rolled out to every box on dealers shelves yet. On their website (and ours) it says 2-3" lift, but as you saw, the box says 0-3" lift. As long as you are looking at the same part number, they are the same shock. There was a 1-2" lift version of this shock, but that is being discontinued. Likely due to low demand. The mechanical differences btw those two shocks included internal spacer to limit extended travel and a shorter length spring. The 2-3" likely has that description bc the minimum lift height may be around that 2" lift mark. This means that even with the preload collar all the way unthreaded to the top, you may still be at around 2" lift (depending on weight). This is restricted by the spring rate and shock lengths. If you are not able to achieve the 2" lift height you want, then we could help you with swapping springs to achieve that. Hope that helps.

DO NOT to shims, the coilovers are designed to be adjusted.

Preload does not equal the amount of threads showing. More info on preload and coilover set up can be found [HERE]

 

No heavy bumper for me, so I’ll probably follow you and just adjust the coils. Did you compress the spring to adjust or did it spin pretty easy without any compression?

 

Didnt compress. Jack up the truck, spray the threads with wd-40, use a 3/8 (I believe that's the one, it's been a while) punch from harbor freight to turn the collar. Just be careful not to bring the set screw out too far or youre in trouble (as you probably already know).

 

Thank you for all that info.

So I shouldn’t try to keep the shocks adjusted to the same amount of threads showing, and then add shims to the driver side to compensate for the lean?

If I adjust the driver side to show more threads (more lift) wouldn’t that make the driver side ride stiffer than the passenger? Or is that a misconception?

I’m hoping to not need to change coils, but if I can’t keep the front end lower than 2.5” of lift I’ll probably have to. I’m trying to keep the geometry at a safe angle and 3” seems like it’s really pushing it.

 

Don't add a shim, In my opinion. I just had a couple more threads showing on the drivers side to compensate for the gas tank. Those couple threads are not gonna make any difference in ride comfort vs the passenger side.

 

My coils are not installed yet, so that’s probably the most ideal time to adjust them.

I’m going to try to muscle the collar as much as I can, I don’t want to accidentally loosen the set screw too much and have the collar jump threads or completely pop off.

I’ve just got to decide if I want to leave the threads showing (I keep wanting to say preload, but I know thanks to accutune that threads showing does not equal preload) on the driver side to account for the lean, or use a shim instead. Did you do anything to counteract the driver side lean?

 

You must have posted this as I was typing my last reply, so that answers that question.

So I’ll raise the passenger collar as high as I can, and leave maybe 1/4-3/8” of threads showing on the driver side. This way I don’t have to mess with shims.

 

Very welcome.

Correct, 100% do not use shims. It is perfectly fine to adjust the coilovers to compensate for the lean. Its the ideal method honestly, since you can literally dial it in to a specific height vs a one height spacer. Adding preload doesnt make the spring stiffer, that is also a misconception. Spring rates do not change when you add preload to them.

I would agree with your thoughts on lift height and angles. If you run into issues not getting the height you want and no more threaded shock body to use, let us know.

We highly recommend against adjusting preload with shocks on the vehicle. Yes, it can totally be done, has been done and will continue be done. Just keep in mind if you were to skip threads and damage the preload nut or shock body, its a very expensive fix. Proceed with all the cautions

 

New to the forum, was reading this whole thread thinking it was old before realizing its now current, which is awesome. Im planning to lift my tundra roughly 2.5" for some tire fitment, im probably gonna do it in sections to lessen the hit to the wallet being my coworker gave me his 1" rear blocks and ubolts. I figured when im ready to buy tires and front coilovers ill slap them in till im ready to buy rears. I dont plan on any heavy or frequent off roading, just occasional towing and light off road. I was wondering if you think the Fox 2.5s are necessary for my goals or is it overkill and i should keep it simple with the 2.0s and no UCA needed? Id like remote reservoirs and adjustment. I was also wondering the difference between the Factory Race series and the Performance Elite series. Id appreciate any input i could get. One last thing, wondering the best rear lift for ride quality at 1-1.5", do shackles affect ride quality much at that height? Should i do leaves? I feel like being the truck is nearly brand new, adding some lift shackles would be ideal since the leaves have no miles on them at this point.

 

I love my 2.5s but they are definitely overkill for my application now. I recommend shackles. Keep in mind that if you get the 2.5s, thats the diameter of the shock, not the lift you get. If you don't have a heavy front bumper or anything else in the front weighing it down, you're gonna get like 3.5" minimum lift in the front if yours come with the 700 pound springs which i think come standard.

 

My truck has no after market add ons that would affect body weight on the suspension and i dont really plan on doing more than that. The 0-3" setup is a realistic 3.5" minimum lift? I understand the 2.0 vs 2.5 as far as size and volume of fluid etc, just trying not to turn it into a monster truck. I have 35x12.50 tires on my 93 pickup and had them on my powerstroke i traded in for my tundra, i love rolling 35's but im coming to realise its not realistic without a significant lift and im thinking something closer to 34s would be more reasonably achieved on the tundra. My truck has 9k miles on it and im not trying to throw everything out of whack with the suspension since i want it to ride nice as i daily it and its the nicest truck iv ever owned. Do you think the 2.0s would be sufficient and more easily achieve a 2.5"-3" lift?

 

I dont have any added weight in the front and i have the least amount of threads possible showing with my 2.5s 0-3" lift and i have like 3.5". the 0-3" is extremely misleading. I dont know enough about the 2.0s to give advice on that. if i were to do it over again id wanna get the fox trd pro suspension to give 2" in the front. Again, my 2.5s are a great ride, just more lift than i wanted.

 

You're referring to the Toyota TRD pro suspension? I work for toyota and could possibly get a discount on that setup. I hadnt really thought that option over. Any idea what size tire can be run with that? I also have been debating even getting different wheels as i only really would swap for the 18" TRD wheels and i know offset comes into play alot with clearances. I appreciate your input

 

I believe 295/70/18 fit with the TRD pro suspension but gotta remove the mud flaps front and rear and maybe push in the front fender liner with some heat (which i did all of with my fox suspension and that tire size).