General Supercharger Thread

Also, just general functionality or need to access things is much easier with the Whipple.

 

The way they have explained it to me years ago was, tq helps you get there and HP helps maintain you there. So, yes I prefer higher tq to get you moving faster, quicker.

 

When I installed the Maggie this weekend, the bolts that hold it down are a bitch to get to. The rest was pretty straight forward, just a lot of steps.

 

Yep also didn’t love the coupler going out as often as it did on the 1.9. Removing the blower and replacing wasn’t appealing to me.

 

I looked at the Whipple but like I said for the price I paid I couldnt think of going another route. I just couldn't see spending close to or over 10k. Maybe if I find a sugar mama, then I will.

 

I thought you didn't have to remove the blower for the coupler change. Just the snout. How long/miles did you get out of the OEM coupler?

 

Typically 80-100k miles on a coupler (TVS1900)...or less depending how it came to you (used or new)...you just need to remove a couple things to pop the snout off...water cross-over pipe being one of them...it's not hard and is far easier than installing a fresh supercharger on the Tundra...some have done it within 2 hours...

 

IMO (and I have a bigger blower), I don’t think that at the limitations of the stock block that the larger blowers are significantly better than the 1.9. If you go built motor, then you need a larger blower to take advantage of it. I’ve driven 2 trucks with the 1900, and mine with the smaller pulley 2650. Any perceived difference between the two at similar boost levels under 10psi is really just gonna come down to the tune and what pulley or other mods you have. I think our collection of dragy times in the private convo highlights this. The 2650s and whipples are not exactly running away with it. In regards to towing, I definitely prefer the larger blowers over the 1.9 even if the 1.9 has more torque down low simply for the lower IATs and cooler running characteristics in that regard.

On the coupler note, I’ve seen at least 4 trucks with bad whipple couplers and they haven’t been out that long, and there’s not nearly as many installed. The only blower that seems to have a better coupler track record so far is the Harrop and it’s too soon to say for the Maggie 2650. Just my observations, to take or leave! @Wynnded also went from a 1.9 to a 2650 I believe?

 

Mine lasted a year in my use case.

 

But aint you comoaring the 1900 to a 2.whatever whipple which should be compared to the 2650?

 

Correct I'm comparing the maggy 1.9 to whipple 2.9 since I've owned both.

At the end of the day the blowers not the limiting factor. The stock block as mentioned above. But from actually owning both and dallying both. There was a noticeable difference.

 

I have very limited time driving/riding in a factory TRD 1.9 Maggie truck, but compared to my Whipple, @reywcms assessment is spot on. IMO.

My only regret with the SC is not having done it sooner! From the towing aspect alone, it is a completely different animal. Granted, Whipple took their sweet time coming out with a kit so I’m glad I waited, but seriously, I wish I would have done it sooner.

 

All claims are perceived as a $7k placebo effect until substantiated with a faster dragy time.

 

That's how I do it. My zzp coupler has been doing well since 2015. When I had the snout off last year it looked great. As far as I could tell inspecting it.

 

I cobbled mine together for less & can't get dragy to cooperate so my times suck but I do make fur raz boyz cry stoplight to stoplight. (in Mexico)

lol

Also, not that anyone cares but I have a PSB 1 lying around & stole its MAP sensor & that was the BMWs problem, boost is now reflecting correctly.

 

Oh, they will both make more power than the stock block can handle so they can deliver near identical power working within that constraint Not trying to step on toes or poo-poo the Maggy. But I chose the Whipple on purpose. And, again, I don't have to try and put down the Maggy or Harrop to feel good about my blower - I'd be smiling either way.

 

I wanted the Harrop, it was still unavailable when I was ready & then a sub 1k mile used unit appeared on CL & was 3k so it became a no brainer.

 

Sometimes I see SCOL offer rebuilt 1900s for $2500 for the blower, but you still need the fit kit items of course. It can definitely be done for less if you’re willing to take the time and be patient. I was neither of those things lol.

 

I got everything but some hoses the cooler & pump. Seeing as I wanted the upgraded pump & cooler, that was actually a positive.

 

I got lucky and found a brand new kit off eBay from a dodge dealer that had 2 kits for $5300.

 

That's good news, parts in stock is even better. I'm chasing down some AFR issues, or maybe not issues, not sure....anyone here have dual wideband sensors, one in each bank's exhaust? My driver's side is a half ratio to 2 ratios richer than passenger when idling, and low RPM driving. Didn't notice anything when I tried spraying carb cleaner for vacuum leaks, and I'm fairly certain I don't have any exhaust leaks...so it's got me stumped.


I moved the sensors from the collector to the midpipes...had to use some clamp-on housings since my garage is a disaster and welding would likely result in burning down my house...

 

Maybe one injector sticking open? I doubt it would be an exhaust restriction as that would run crappy and usually trigger a mil. Both the new sensors or cleaned up old ones?

 

Could be an injector issue, since the reading is a combo of the 4 on the bank and it differs from the stock sensor in cylinder 5, I could try swapping some injectors around and see what happens. I'm still running the old sensors, calibration passes for both, so I stuck with them and returned the new ones...I could also swap sensors to see if the same AFR is reported.

 

Man you can have a 100 page thread with all your car issues.

 

Worth a shot. Clean each sensor can you check voltages going to sensor? Just seeing if they are the same.

 

The BMW is a nightmare of vacuum hoses that are everywhere & hidden. I got this to chase down leaks, worked great & worth every penny.

Order mineral oil it does not have any & vegetable oil made shockingly light smoke

$66 Solary Automotive Smoke Machine Leak Detector - 12V DC EVAP Vacuum Diagnostic Tester for Pipe System

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C7MKZPK3?ie=UTF8

 

Lots of mods on lots of cars = lots of issues, I'm getting close to seriously done though. (no really)

lol

Remember:
I'm e30cabrio, I'm a modaholic

 

I wouldn't get the PoS Prospeed intake, however, without it I wouldn't have investigated an alternative for my situation.
I would have gotten gauges to read AFR and Boost from day one and I would have skipped Harrop "Stage 1" altogether.
I would have gotten the GripPro and a way of dealing with axle twist/wheel hop on day one as well.

For anyone going for 550+ WHP on nonE85 pump gas get a built engine and valvebody.
Seeing how the turbo is sipping meth I would probably get a meth kit if the injection points can be integrated into a spacer after the rotors.

Edit: Oh and I would have switched from 0w20 to 5w30 sooner as well.

 

The tune was the big delaying factor from what I remember. Whipple was available when I was in the market (late 2020) but the 2019+ tunes weren't, sadly. They offered a big fat discount at the end of 2020 from what I remember just couldn't run it on a stock map.

 

Good thinking. @armyoffoo what if you hang the sensors outside the exhaust, or what do they read after it's sat awhile and the truck isn't running? They should read max lean then and at least you'd have a bullet point that they're the same in clean air.