Drive shaft replacment, Reman or new?

Evening guys,
I need some advise on an problem Ive run into with the drive shaft on my 2008 Tundra.
Whilst trying to replace the carrier bearing, I ended up ruining the threads on the front shaft and can't get the bolt back on to secure the yoke. I'm going to try and recenter the treads and re-thread it but I'm not confident it will work out.
With that said,
Does anyone have advice on a reman vs new?
Is a single shaft (one piece) an option? If so, is there any advantage to single shaft vs the OEM two-piece type?
And, does anyone have recommendations for a source for either?
Thnx
Update, I did find these guys
https://driveshaftstore.com/Toyota-Tundra-Driveshaft-2008-164710
but the connection for the U-joints looks a little suspect to me. Has anyone seen these yet?

 

Toyota will only sell the entire 2 piece drive shaft because they have to be balanced together. I’ve been down that road. Could also try a junkyard

 

Unless you totally destroyed the threads, just use a small triangle file to fix them. Not very hard at all.

 

We used to use these at work daily and they are a lifesaver. This one is metric.

 

A thread file has saved my butt several times. Before buying a new driveshaft I would see if a local machine shop could fix the threads inexpensive.

Assuming you don’t have a driveshaft shop locally.

 

Thnx for the help guys, I used a file and a hacksaw and was able to get the threads close enough for the nut catch and thread on. So the yoke is back on and gtg.
I have a new issue now. I’ve tried two different U-joints from Napa, both SKF part # UJ331 and UJ331C. They both go in just fine, until I install the retaining clips. It’s so tight that I can’t hardly swivel the joint. And the two retaining clips have a slight bulge in the center as if they are going to spring out. Are there retaining clips with different thicknesses maybe? No idea what to do at this point other then try a different brand.

UPDATE:
I thought maybe the new UJ's were the wrong part #, or somehow defective. So I reinstalled the old UJ and it went in fine and had no binding issue whatsoever. I compared the old one to the two new ones and they appear to be identical. I am going to have them measured with a micrometer but I don't think that's going to be the issue. I don't see how I could have damaged the yoke when I pulled the DS out. It's a pretty easy, straightforward procedure. I didn't drop it or whale on it excessively so... I don't know.

 

I don’t know if this could be the issue or not. The only time I’ve ever had trouble getting a joint cap on is when one of the roller bearings got loose and drop into the bottom of the cap. When you put the cap back on it will keep the cap from seating all the way. It can be tricky to see in the grease.

 

Yes, the retaining clips come in different thicknesses
Spicer (Dana) are the only U Joints you should really be purchasing and they come with different thickness clips.

 

SKF went in my truck just fine. You have knocked over at least one of the tiny roller bearings inside the cup when you pushed the cross shaped piece into the cup. If forced the tiny roller will shatter into more pieces. Take it apart and look inside the cup. The key is to carefully align both sides simultaneously by hand and keep the cross centered while using a ball joint press or other clamping device to slowly press in both cups at the same time. It takes patience and a little skill! Go slow and think carefully.

 

Roller bearing was my first thought. I made that mistake the last time I replaced them and ruined the joint. This time I removed and re installed it three times thinking that was the issue, but every time they were fine. then I re installed the old one and it went in no problem. I think the one I'm replacing now was a Spicer or Moog. Ill see if they will return these and order Spicer.
thnx

 

The cups need to fit tight so they can't spin. I used SKF and they were tight as hell, but they did work. You could have too much grease in the cup creating an issue as well. Generally speaking SKF makes damn good quality products.

 

Not sure how helpful but went through this last year on my 08 long box. Pulled the rear 2 piece disassembled and put u-joints back in. They too were not fitting well so bought some moogs and spicers, to no avail. I couldn't get all to seat properly but some I did. Took the ds to a local racing shop who diagnosed my issue. I had punched/pressed out all the bearings, and upon reinserting 1/2 half the set-up was all aluminum. Apparently, I had compromised some of the seats. Long story short, chucked the aluminum half and went with a steel replacement. All in all I really hated every minute of that mess!

 

Hey y’all, I was in the middle of replacing my carrier bearing, until i was trying to take the U-joint off of the center yoke, the socket and hammer method didn’t really work to i went and got a press set to get it out, but sure enough it didn’t work either and it actually ended up breaking the yoke. I can’t find the yoke anywhere, not even the dealership has it.
Does anyone know where to find it?

 

Salvage yards will have many

 

Toyota doesn’t sell them separately, you’d have to buy the whole drive shaft because they would have to be properly balanced.

 

You can take any driveshaft assembly to a driveshaft and axle specialty shop to have it balanced. Sort of like a wheel/tire assembly.