Supercharger Running Lean

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp

 

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp

With their gauge, it plugs in perfectly on the drivers side feed line.

 

@Vizsla do the 2015's put out 14vdc to the fuel pump or is it modulated like earlier years?
@mralanle did you bypass the y by the switching valve so its not routing back to tank?

 

Yeah, I bought the non flex fuel lines and capped the switch valve

 

Racetronix’s gauge?

 

The racetronixs has the 5/16 quick disconnect fuel line and 1/8npt port for fuel gauge.


Was just double checking fuel line setup. You left all electrical attached for switching? I don't think ecu cares or will set a dtc.
Just reviewing how firemandans had his setup.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/

 

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/gauge-100psi-15-liquid-cf-blk/fpg-cfb00100

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp

are these the two things I need? Or do I need anything else

 

@mralanle yes and just set them up inline drivers side.
Like this. Disregard the extra braided fuel line.

 

How do I see the pressure under WOT?

 

In tank for sure but when you're 100% Inj DC and can only hit high 10's then injectors will not be keeping up even with 60 psi. Confirming pressure at the rail like you guys are discussing makes most sense especially if you're only getting into 12's. Boost referenced also highly recommend over intake vacuum referenced, if not already done.

 

He is running the 60psi ffv regulator.

 

For test purposes you could run a fuel line with gauge to your driver side wiper. It's been done before. Using AN hose and fittings or a dedicated 1/8npt line. I run both mechanical fuel psi guage under hood and a electric digital in cab.

 

Yes sir, same as me. But when it hits A/F in the upper 10's, which sounds like it's inconsistent, that injDC is at 100%. If he targets 10's then he's gonna be wrapping out his injectors everytime in wot. Sounds like in tank isn't keeping up for sure, basket issue or pump failure but them injectors seem like they are at the limit also imo

 

Is the griptec 2.3 a 58mm pulley?

 

As @Silver17 stated the walbro #274 doesn't fit well and allow the jet pump to refill. The #267 is the one that allows the system to properly fill the canister. He could by running out of fuel...

 

What’s the extra braided fuel line for? And would you know what size fuel line to get to mount it by my windshield? I’m not that mechanically inclined so I’m trying to learn how to do it. Already lost $350 to get the truck diagnosed sadly wasn’t helpful at all

 

In post #36 I put a link to a member who has a setup similar to yours to see if anything in there could help. The braided line just tee's into the other rail. Supposed to keep pressure equal between the two. It's not needed and didn't want any confusion.
Cheapest and easiest way you can pick up some 1/8npt male female fittings, hose clamp and fuel line. I think one member even put his phone camera in there to film the psi at wot.

 

Any tips/tricks or special tools needed to release the connection? I just ordered the adapter and gauge also. I imagine all that is needed for install is to disconnect the line, wrap some teflon tape on the gauge threads and reconnect the line.

 

No special tools, BUT fuel line pliers make quick work of the quick connect. For the gauge I use sealant and tape, but tape alone should be good. Throw a rag over the connection prior to releasing for any splashes and it pulls right off.

$10 9" Length Fuel Filter Calipers Fuel Line Pliers In-Line Fuel Filter Tool Fuel Filter Line Pipe Hose Quick Release Pliers Remover

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SF6DK6?ie=UTF8

 

@VWTim Those pliers are a life saver when your fingers just can't pinch the connection to get it off.

 

They are a requirement IMO for dropping the fuel tank.

 

Oh yes. Years ago I was helping my friend on his Benz and he pulled out those pliers. I was like "what are those!"? Good link for others to get for their tool box.

 

Thank you, just purchased the tool as well.

 

Just ordered everything, gonna try to do it within the week. The recent shop that worked on my truck said I was at 45 psi at cruising.. shouldn’t I be at 60 psi all the time if I capped then switch valve?

 

Is your FPR boost referenced or not? Couldn't remember if we asked, and it wasn't on post #1.

 

It’s not boost referenced

 

Got it, should be 60PSI regardless of running, cruising, etc.

 

So with that info, what would you suspect it is? I’ve changed the regulator, fuel pump but the 274.. maybe I’ll try the 267.

 

What do you mean by "capped the switch valve"? Curious...

 

In post #36 there is a thread link that talks about disabling the ffv switching system.

Flex fuel mod:
So... the way the stock (NON flex) fuel system works, is:
It leaves the pump and goes straight to the drivers side rail (front).. exits through the rear and then goes through the passengers side rail (rear to front) where it exits through a 43.5 psi fuel pressure regular... and then back to the tank.

The way the stock (FLEX) fuel system works, in is:
It leaves the pump and goes into a fuel switching valve located on the frame just above the tank. This switch has a "Y" where it sends it out via 2 options. 1)to the rail and 2)back to the tank. The rail is always open and it always goes that way.
BUT... when in (gas/normal/low pressure mode) it ALSO allows gas to take the short leg of the Y back to the tank where it passes through a 43.5 psi fuel pressure regulator build into the canister. (see pictures in OP of the canister I pulled).
What this does it limits the pressure of the fuel "system" to 43.5. Gas will still travel to the rail then back to the tank via another return line, just line the non-FFV... BUT... We are essentially 'leaking' that sweet sweet nectar right back into the tank too.
FFV flex fuel/high pressure mode closes this short return of the "Y" and sends the fuel ONLY to the rail.. the same way the non-flex fuel trucks do.
Again it goes to the drivers side rail (front).. exits through the rear ... passengers side rail (rear to front) where THIS time it exits through a 60 psi fuel pressure regular... and then back to the tank.
And yes, in low pressure more it DOES still go through that 60psi fpr.. but it is at 43.5 psi due to the open short return through the other in-tank fpr... and the system will run and the lower pressure. So in low pressure mode that rail regulator does nothing.

OK.. still with me? lol.

SO....
The Mod:

• I bought the NON-FLEX FUEL TRUCK's supply line that leaves the pump and runs towards the rail. It connects to the top of the canister and runs to a break/connection just in front of the tank.(simple fuel line connection) Both trucks have the connection here, both the same style connection at this point... FFV coming from the swicth valve(one stlye fitting there). Non-flex coming from the canister(different kind of fitting than the one leaving the switch).
• So I removed the section that ran from the switch to the front of the tank (heading to the rail)
• I removed the FFV canister "out" line that ran to the switching valve.
• I installed the NEW "non flex truck supply line "to the top of the canister "out" and connected it back inline at the junction in front of the tank, exactly like on he non-ffv trucks.
• Lastly, I removed the short return line running from the switching valve back to the pump 43psi fpr and capped it.

Now the system is ONE simple loop.. leaves the pump... drivers side.. pass side.. 60psi fpr... return. No more dumping out fuel via the short return..no more hobbs swicthes or grounding relays to try and trick the truck to stay in high pressure mode. It physicallycannot give my gas away anymore!