Roadmaster Active suspension review

I wanna say it comes more from the front but it's a good question. I leveled out the front and did the ras identical both sides and I'm dead even

 

I did a little, didn’t take much for the 26 gallon tank, but I’m planning to upgrade to the transfer flow so I’m sure I’ll need a bit more then.

 

Well I had to haul about five and a half tons of concrete to the dump a couple days ago. I hauled it in a double axle dump trailer with the bulk of the weight centered over the axles which really reduced the load on the hitch. It was well with in the rated tong weight for the truck but she squatted a bit but wasn't anything I felt I needed to be concerned about. I made two trips and kept the speeds down and there where no speed bumps or pot holes to hit but after everything was said and done and after taking the trailer off the truck the truck did not return to it's previous ride height. If I thought it was sagging before it is definitely sagging now. The leaf pack is resting on the overloads. So I guess I will definitely be replacing the leaf pack now. Apparently I have the heavy duty tow package leaf pack that has 4 leaf's and an over load as opposed to the 3 leaf no overload regular no tow package leaf pack. Toyota what are you thinking? If I can destroy the "heavy duty" leaf pack without even over loading the truck it ain't a heavy duty leaf pack. It's a crap pack and has no business being put in a pick up truck.

Anyone have any recommendations for a replacement leaf pack? I won't be replacing them with OEM at this point plus I want to get rid of the lift block and use the leaf pack to get the needed lift. I am open to suggestions.

 

Were you getting shuddering at 1700-2000 rpm’s when towing? I’m getting that towing 4000lb trailer with about 400-500 lbs in the bed.

 

You need to get sumo or timbren to help with those heavy load

 

I will check it out.

Does anyone have any opinions on ICON leaf packs or Dobson?

 

How about the Old Man Emu leaf packs? Are they any good? From what I've seen they will get me 2" of lift over stock. I think that's about where I want to be. If I need more a RAS should get me there. Right now I'm squatting about 3" from where I want to be. Will the Icons give me three inchs with the RAS?

 

I installed the CB 0-2” carrier bearing drop kit and still have the same amount of driveline vibes at takeoff. Didn’t help at all.

It’s annoying me even more now, anyone have any ideas?

 

Been reading this post and a few of the airbag posts and at a crossroad. I have a stock 19 Pro. Just purchased a 7000lb travel trailer with 700lb tongue weight. I am expecting quite a bit of squat and trying to figure out the best option here. Anyone have a setup they really like that won’t completely damage my springs? RAS looks like a good option but just read about the factory spring issues. I don’t plan on a cross country trip but may go tow a couple longer trips each summer. Mostly around the state . Thanks in advance.

 

I'd run the Roadmaster HDs, a decent weight distribution hitch (properly set up) and trailer anti-sway control bars (connected into the weight distribution hitch)

Also, I did not read through this thread completely, but if I recall, the folks having issues w/the Roadmaster setup causing spring problems also had additional lift set-ups in their rigs such as blocks, shackles, etc... and the combination of the 2 systems was causing the problem.

If you are stock ride height, RAS should not cause a problem for your springs....

 

Thanks, this what I was hoping for. I have a Blue Ox that came with the trailer so I should be in decent shape with the RAS HD. Think I will give them a try. Seems pretty straight forward of an install. May call around to check on pricing for both just to be on safe side. Thanks!

 

The company that works on my truck stated that they use the Super Springs SSA27 over the RAS HD. Anyone have direct knowledge or run the Super Sring SSA27? Thanks!

 

I ran super spring on my Tacoma, you need to cut the pump stops, and install their bump stops on top and need C clamp to adjust spring rate, so I left it in the top setting. It’s bumpy when empty bed, but I have tools in my bed most of the time so it’s not too bad. If you ride empty bed or need to adjust the spring rate all the time, I’ll get something else.

 

I have installed about 200-250 RAS systems, 90% on Tacoma and Tundras. I have not any issues with them at all, but have not installed any on trucks with over a 2" lift blocks in the rear. I have been installing the RAS system for over 20 years. I think they are the best upgrade to a leak spring suspension system if you are going to be carrying any type of loads or towing.

My only complaints have been that it does raise the rear end about .25 to 1". Those are from the customers that want a level truck! I have never had any of them come back failed.

I have been running an independent Asian/Hybrid specialty shop for about 27 years

 

I’m looking at installing one. With your experience, what is your take on the standard duty vs heavy duty version? Their web site suggests less than 2” of squat and/or 600lbs for standard, otherwise HD. That track with your experience? Is there a difference between the two in how much they raise the rear end?

 

RAS assessment is pretty right on. If you are on the edge, you might go with the HD. You can always set the HD on the lighter side of the adjustments. The HD on the same setting will raise it just a bit more, not alot. These spring are progressive so that start working the more into their travel. When I bought them for my 1/2 tons they did not offer the HD.

I have now a 2012 F-150 with the regular RAS, 5100s and tow a 30' travel trailer, and it rides great, tow great and takes the winds very well!!! The only wiggle I get from my truck is because of my tires, I switched from LT to P rates tires as I am selling and buying a 2024 Tundra(if I can ever find a 1794 with AVS)

 

Thank you.

 

RAS went on sale yesterday. $80 off, free shipping, no sales tax outside of NC. I placed and order for HD. Arriving today.

 

Thank you, sir!!!


Order placed for the HDs as well!!!

 

I added HD RAS and set it on the lowest setting. Perfect setup for me.

 

That sucks. I bought mine last week for $589.00. Par for the course for me. Oh well!!! I shouldn’t have clicked into this thread.

 

I just got a set of these for free from a friend and he doesn't know if these are HD or standard. I recently got a lightweight truck camper installed it's around 350lbs plus camping gear I'm around 500lbs constant. My front was already lifted 1.5-2" and I'm just trying to get rear back up to at least level or slight rake. Hoping this gets me there! If not, new leaf springs are in order but I figured I'd try this first

 

According to the instructions that came with mine, HD: The head of the cap screw (the end of the threaded rod) is 12mm for standard duty, and 14mm for HD. The lock nuts closest to the cap screw are 22mm for standard duty, and 24mm for HD. I've not installed mine, yet, so I cannot confirm this.

 

thanks for that. looks like it's the standard version unfortunately. wonder if i can still get 1-1.5" lift with this load with the setup

 

I should've took a before picture, but I did take measurements. This standard pack at the nickel setting netting me nearly 2" on the stock leaf pack over the sag I had. I was at 21" hub to fender and now I'm at nearly 23". I'm running about 500-600lbs on the bed with the camper and gear. Just took it for a quick test drive and everything felt more planted instead of bouncy. I already have 1.5-2" Bilstein 6112 lift in the front.

Any negatives to going with the nickel setting instead of dime or quarter? I off-road a decent amount and I'm hoping this won't affect articulation.


Edit: found a similar before picture, with less weight in the bed.

Before:


After:

 

Only 'negative' is that for some guys who are unloaded part of the time, the nickel setting provides a bit of 'rake or elevation' to the rear when comparing to an otherwise stock suspension... I'd imagine it may be a bit stiffer unloaded, but probably not enough to notice...

Regarding articulation, maybe @RainMan_PNW can chime in here as I believe he had his on during his trip to Sedona last year and did a bit of 'crawling'.

 

Good info thanks! The cool thing is right now I'm happy with the ride height and the bed is currently loaded for about 90% of my driving usage (fridge, some camping gear and recovery tools). The other 10% is a cooler of beer and the 80lb dog for road trips so I think this works out good. I technically will never be "unloaded"

 

You're welcome. Also, and from memory, I believe the instructions say that if you lose the white (1mm) and black (2mm) spacers, that using a dime and a nickel will work.