General Supercharger Thread

Back somewhere in the thread I posted the FFV & Walbro 450 side by side and they look identical.

 

Yes. The walbro 450 #267 fits nicely in the FFV canister with no mods. How I wound up with a spare pump. If anyone is in need. Let me know.

 

My kit was a non FFV. Called Magnuson and they confirmed kit was fine, id just get the extra FP. Then confirmed once my ECU# was pulled the tune they sent for the RTD was a FFV tune. Truck ran good on their tune but liked being in the mid 11's WOT, confirmed via the PSB1. So dumped that tune and went MPVI -3, 750s and 76mm pulley lol. Maybe they sent me a regular Non FFV tune unbeknownst to me. Not sure though because the tune are on lock down never was able to check the tables

 

Thanks guys! @Mdl pm sent on that fuel pump.

 

You guys with the HP Prolink+, what did you attached the ground wire to? Same ground as the gauge? Want to hook up to log AFR off a PSB-1

 

I leveraged the ground bolt behind the drivers kick panel. Gauge is home run to the battery.

 

I ran an oversized ground out the firewall and tied it to the battery ground on the fender. It's not 1000 watt amplifier over-sized, but maybe 10 or 12 gauge for the small accessories up front to ground to - not including the head unit or any stereo stuff. Innovate specifically asks you NOT to tie in to the radio ground. I considered @bflooks solution but didn't chase it to see that it home runs tot he battery. Good to know.

 

Just ran prolink to AEM ground which goes to battery.

 

I put mine where the kick panel trim is located. Pull it and you'll see a existing ground point.

 

Oh, no no, I didn't chase that ground bolt to confirm it goes to the battery. It is a factory ground location, so I used it, but only for the prolink since it is a more simple, lower voltage, passive device. The gauge itself I ran straight to the battery with a dedicated wire through the firewall because I don't want to worry about potential electrical issues/anomalies in my controller.

Apologies if I was misleading

 

The way I understood the ProLink documentation is that the ground isn't for the ProLink, it's to provide a sensor ground for the 5v input you are connecting to the red and blue wires. I have 2 AEM wideband gauges. With AEM, you get a white wire for the 5v sensor input, a brown wire for sensor ground, and red/black for power/ground for the gauge...I connected the red and blue wires to each input and split the ground wire to both sensor grounds.



The MPIV is already grounded through the OBD2 port, you don't need to ground the ProLink harness to the chassis, it's to be used to ground the signal. Grounding to the chassis can introduce noise and inconsistent values.

 

I updated my original intake restriction test post with a TRD accelerator and AFE dry filter.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-476#post-3528702

I will eventually make this into it's own post, but wanted to share the data as soon as I got it.

 

Thanks for taking the time to get the data!

 

Nice, looks like unknown to me, I've been running what you've concluded as the winner.

 

Whats SC are you running?

 

Harrop, but won't matter what's downstream. Airflow is airflow.

 

Yeah that's what I was curious about. The PSB 1 doesn't have a sensor ground, just has a ground. So do you ground the prolink to that or something else or nothing at all? The pro-link instructions aren't very helpful

 

I was just wondering because id like to have the 80mm over the 76 im running but ive got the 2650 maggy

 

2650 shares the same or similar rotor pack to the Harrop, only small changes with intercoolers. They appear to respond very similarly to mods.

 

No one makes an 80mm for the maggy yet though. Sniv would have had some made but no interest from anyone but me. More to order gets the cost down

 

I would check with Innovate support on what they recommend, they might suggest to ground to the same spot as the gauge, or might specify it has to be separate from the gauge's ground point. The sensor ground might be internally grounded to the gauge ground...something support could confirm. The ProLink itself doesn't need to be grounded, it just provides a sensor ground for the 5v sensor input to complete the circuit.

 

Looks like I blundered into the "right" combo too! yEa ME! LOL

 

FPR question for this thread. It's known that the Harrop supplied FPR is just an OEM FPR that is 'pinched' to increase pressure to the rail / injectors. IIRC, Harrop in their first go round of SC kits had the installer actually pinch the OEM FPR using supplied tools to do so. However, they instructed installers to NOT pinch the FPR if they were going to install stage 2 injectors (dw650's). I have recently gone from Stage 1 to Stage 2 with DW650's, Magnuson Air box and a 77.5 pulley (boost referenced). I am now experiencing the dreaded extended crank with a heat sunk engine. Here is the quesion - I am wondering if the Harrop supplied FPR is the issue. Increased pressure decreases the volume entering the system post FPR. We know that a stock FPR regulates at 43psi. I am wondering if the decrease in volume during a heat sunk engine somehow creates a situation that causes a lack of fuel for the BIGGER injectors to push the appropriate volume for a strong start. We do know that pumping the gas pedal can at times mitigate the extended crank. This is a pressure vs. volume question in a boost referenced SC where I have NO idea how a tune / ECU manages heat sink ignition in this situation. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

 

pondering...

I am Harrop/650's/77.5mm

I am using the Harrop fuel pump.

and I do not have any extended crank issues.

or any issues for that matter.

which leads me to believe it's tune related. (I am not actually qualified to make that stmnt, but, whatever)


I was initially tuned by D3 Performance in League City TX - no issues.

now tuned by Peitz Performance (HPT) in Katy Tx.

 

The stock throttle body can easily be over bored to 80mm.

 

yeah, I know that there are some out there who have no issues with the same set up - likley equal to those who DO experience this issue. Many have spent many hours with tuners to find a solution and others have spent none (lucky you!) - I am hoping that his could be a possible contributor given the mind numbing small differences in all of our trucks which make them 'unique'. I cannot afford to chase ALL of the rabbits. Going back to Stage 1 will likley be my next move if this hail mary is moot.

 

I see you filled in the spreadsheet. If that spreadsheet proves anything it seems to be that there is no common pattern. @Wynnded did extensive tune testing and could never get his setup to start consistently, then swapped injectors and it was fine.

I think your best bet is to change injectors (which is the same thing as going to the stage 1 essentially). I think if you got different 650s you could directly swap them in without changing the tune probably too.

 

By any chance - do you have Setrab cooler installed?

 

Very frustrating indeed. I'm Harrop SC, Harrop FPR, Harrop supplied Fuel pump, DW650's, 80mm pulley (but shouldn't affect cranking), but self tuned in HPT. No cranking issues so far... Maybe throw an inline fuel gauge to see what's happening? https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp works great with the optional gauge.

Antidote time, I had extended warm cranking in my old VW racecar running SDS EFI. Finally tracked it down to an incorrect fuel cell at warm temps, I don't recall exactly, but should have been 0, and accidently got toggled to -99 or something like that. While running the EFI would interpolate right thru it without issue but at warm crank, it would crank forever.

 

yes I do.