06 Tundra driveshaft & steering rack ??

Hello all.
New here and seeking opinions on an 06 AC, auto, 4.7l.
87k miles. Drove it and feels smooth quiet solid. Trans and suspension quiet too.
Underside is clean as a 17yr old Tundra in Cali can be.
2 concerns:
1. steer rack boot pass side has some signs of leak- not drips but visible film.
2. rear dr shaft has a label on it i1 wouldnt expect Toyota w

 

sorry. input error.

1. steer rack boot pass side has some signs of leak- not drips but visible film.
2. rear dr shaft has a label on it i wouldnt expect to see on Toyota vehicle.
"Spicer..." advisory...?

Comments/opinions?
thx.
Joe

 

If you stretch the rack bellows in that spot, can you see any tears? Is your PS fluid level fine, and staying steady?

I doubt the rear driveshaft is OEM, but it's Dana/Spicer, so you should be fine. What's the concern?

Low mile isn't necessarily a good thing. Hope things look alright in the top-end and you didn't get screwed like a couple of other low-mile buyers.

 

Im a bit suspicious since owner justbot 2yrs ago and says its too big a rig for him. Hes 81 and has a Tesla & gen1 Tacoma in garage- said Tundra wont fit and he did back left rear into another vehcle..no serious body damage other than tight corner contour under tail light is punched in. Bumpr survived but he replaced signal housing.
Other than reg & Tundra manual, no maint rec's...?? Im pullin a Carfax as i type, if for nothing more just to see if truk ever lived outside Cal.
Hes asking 11k but I think he'll go for 10k.
Otherwise very clean xcept for nicotine smell- old dude definitely a WillieNelson clone..

 

my concern about Dr-shaft is if replacement, why? Wouldnt think Toyo shaft would ever fail- not many moving parts there...how do you need a replacement w/only 87k on dial?

 

yeah, dont want to be too invasive since its a 17yr old rack, boot might split + i can tell he's a bit cranky...lost wife recently and 3 old girls his age came by walkin their dogs and ones dog took a leak on his parkway planter- he said to them " hey your dogs not gonna shit there is he?"
They just brushed him off and said no & kept moving; like an old people sitcom...

 

VIN s clean via NHTSA site.

 

About Top End...How bad is bad?
Engine bay looks clean and no leaks drips or pools on heads, intake valleys, etc.
Cam covers dry..
Overall dusty and dry and not 'hosed' w/armorall or whatevr detailers use for the re-sellers...

 

He's 81. He was probably feeling a vibration or the classic 2WD clunk and someone told him the driveshaft needed replacement and he had them replace it. And the real cause was probably the loose transmission crossmember bolts, from cracked transmission crossmember, a notorious 2WD problem.

Have you read this thread yet? https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Smoke smell can be defeated with an ozone generator.

$11k is a steal in Cali, even if 2WD. At that mileage 2WD typically goes for $16k.

 

Carfax confirms his story. 1 other owner took delivery in OCounty in 06 fr/local dealer. All truck ever had tho over a dozen visits is oil n filtrs, brakes, Pass airbag replcd and emmisions test evry othr year...
So, whats Top end service imporant...
non-vvti motor?

 

'06 is VVTi.

Did you read that thread I linked? Please do. Then come back and ask questions.

 

Yes. Great thread. Why im here now.
I lived thru a 'ball joint event' in my G1 Taco...
This truk will get that first.
If i buy.
#2 would be brake overhaul to toyo spec; size up rotor maybe later.
#3 would be timing belt. Presume h20 pump then as well.
That adds $3k since im not a mech and will pay for toyo experienced hands.

But what about that 'Top End' horror story syndrome?

 

Ok. Thot Vvti was a Gen2 change

 

VVTi started in 2005 for 1st Gen Tundras. All that info is in the thread I linked. Everything you need to know is pretty much in that thread. Including top end issues.

Your priorities are backwards. Timing belt should be #1 concern. Later models '04+ already have great brakes w/13WL.

 

Thx for clarity...
Yes T belt is#1 then but #2= Lwr BJs.
I read it all but not memorized...
Will dig there again on TopEnd.
Would think sludge accumualations out of past even w/ modern lube oils & filters...

 

i meant 'thing of the past'...

 

Search for "low mile", you'll find it

And FYI, I think that driveshaft is original Toyota used Dana/Spicer for OEM driveline on joints, and this guy posted pics, I see the same Dana/Spicer logo/diamond at the bottom of the sticker just like yours.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/servicing-concerns-and-inspection-on-my-new-tundra.140224/

 

All in all, not as a DailyDrvr, but for boat tows & occasional heavy lift, im felling good about this truck.
Only dislikes is 75series tires, oversize IMO, and prefer bucket seats but all else clean. No aftermarket adds. Toyo tow hitch, cooler, plug.
Factoring 17yrs old, 87k and future maint. needs, he said he'll go 10k; wants it moved outta dr/way.

 

Nice. Good on ya. You're stealing it. How does it feel to rob an 81yo?

 

Oh he's no tumbleweed...he used to resto 40-50s cars.
I'll update later post deal, butif im in that good condition if i hit 80...all that booze was worth it!

 

Well, that was simple..
He took 9850.
Interestingly, thats about what Carfax valued based on specs, zip etc...

 

Good buy.

 

Before I close this deal...
take alook at pics of 'un-painted' front side of rear end [need to zoom to U joint flange]...the front side of housing has a full coat of rust. Im guessing just surface rust but I think thats what prompted 'paint project' by seller.
My guess is that he or prev owner routinely dipped at boat launch ramp but had to sink rear end up to near ctr of wheels to unload-load boat [not a good boat to trailer fit or ramp wasnt very steep]. Likely never rinsed axle housing after 'launch/retrieve', focusing on trailer and trailer brakes, outboard or outdrive.... easy to overlook.
My concern here is not so much on housing, since its a rather stout assembly, but looking at the shaft u-joint to differential yoke, it looks like quite a bit of rust; leads me to think if dis-assembly ever needed, that might be a challenge w/out breaking bolts.
I took the pics today before making offer, but didnt give much thot to why the old guy spray painted the bk side of rear end housing [but not front side] and front end of skid plate; thought it was just old guy looking for stuff to do...hmmm...
$$ not yet changed hands...Stay tuned...

 

I see nothing of concern in this case.

I think you're crazy if you haven't already purchased this. You could buy it, and flip it on a quick sale for $3k tomorrow at the price advertised.

People in the rust belt are laughing at you for using the word "rust". If you ever want to know how much rust. There's literally nothing to see there except on the hangers, and that's the amount of rust a New England truck would see after one winter's worth of driving.

But 1st thing I'd be doing after timing belt is changing the rear diff fluids and breather if you think it was used to launch boats. And note that truck has LSD rear, so stick with Lucas 80w90 conventional to avoid chatter and wearing out the clutch pack.

 

I searched the part number for the driveshaft and came up with this - sounds like this fellow bought his truck new has the same sticker.

I wonder if Dana only produced a certain number of OEM driveshafts without that sticker towards the end of 1st gen production, and Toyota ended up with some of their stickered units.




That part number is otherwise discontinued from Dana: Spicer - 5002467-1 - SB SHAFT ASSY SB2-4 (danaaftermarket.com)

 

this deal fell thru.
Long story short: cranky & impatient old man...I had to wait til Mon to get a ride [70 mi one-away], so I called to update him but he wouldn-t have it. So, I didnt beg and let it go. Curiously, I checked a few days later and he lowered price to $9k! Then I checked again last Mon, and its back up to $11k.
He was seriously impatient: before I made offer, while takig pics of undercarriage, unbeknown to me, he got in truck and started w/me under; no warning whatsoever. Also, I got there at 215p and by 3:30 he started locking it up saying "well its getting late.." I had to almost beg to reopen it to get a pic of the door VIN.
Later that day, when I made the offer via phone about 5p, I intended to show up Sat to close the deal and take truck, but find out my ride cant go til Mon. am. So about 745p I called to let him know I cant close deal til Mon am; he cancelled. I said if still around I'll call back, since my offer still stands. He hung-up. Glad I didn't [he refused anyway] leave a cash deposit.
So, I may be crazy but the deal had a bit of a bad smell anyway, eventhough the truck "seemed" good.

BTW: on next seller, I plan to make offer contingent on a 'compression check' either with their or my mechanic; unreasonable? [i dont think any owner would be comfortable with a DIY guy doing compression].

Anyhow, the search continues...

 

Follow-up 1st gen query for Shifty or anyone else up on this:

The official "Toyota Vehicle Specification" by VIN site has a couple of different ways of stating 'Tow Package' for my subject searches ['05,'06].
Examples:
"TO Towing Package w/ClassIV Hitch,130 Amp Alternator,Transmission oil Cooler,7 Pin Connector w/Converter"

and yet others will state:
"TO V8 Tow Package".

Examples are from 2 otherwise ID '06 2WD AC v8s, except the 1st quote is spec'd as a 'Limited' [which also boasts of a '282HP' motor...separate issue]

So, are they the same 'Factory' spec or is their a real difference?
or could it just be how different 'IT management staff' entered or transcribed 'descriptions' at various epochs of time?

MOD: Should this be a different thread?

 

"TO" is the abbreviation for Tow Package, IIRC.

Both statements you quoted are the same. And if your truck came with Tow, it'll have certain cues that are obvious, including the trans cooler, the 130A alternator (you should see a part number on the alternator, if Denso/OEM, you can look up), the 7-pin OEM harness under the bumper, the OEM tow hitch is unique, and I believe there's a TOW relay in the fuse/relay box in the engine bay.

 

Yup, taken from my build sheet, note the two-letter acronyms for various features of my truck, the "CC" was invalid (came factory with leather), but the rest was valid:

​

 

Thanks shifty.
My presumption then, is that if its a 'Toyota' factory equipped hitch on a Tundra, Limited or Sr5, then its a 'Cls4, 7 pin pigtail, etc.' meaning hitch installed by Toyota.
As far as the Tundra's of my subject search [05-06, Ac RWD v8], they all had what 'appears' to be Cls4, adjacent hitch elec pigtail on bracket [not sure if 7 or 4pin] and trans cooler on radiator face. I don't know of any distinct label or appearance feature of the "130amp Alt" though, so again 'presuming', if X is present then Y should also be?
OTOH, I've seen what I just described on subject Tundra's but the VIN spec never mentions any tow package but instead states
"4 Pin Trailer Wire Harness w/Converter".
In that case, did the vehicle leave factory with bare rear of frame and dealer adds the std Toyota issue based on customer request?...