What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No judgement here. I had the same experience with that guy. He would post on social media but wouldn't call me back. Great business model dude.

 

Little weekend camp trip. Rained most of the time but the kids didn’t mind

 

I've left mine alone. If I'm driving at night and my wife is with me and turns on the passenger side light it just projects right to the seat and doesn't bother my vision at all. I worry with removing the cover that it will be in my eyes at night.

 

Tire rotation, fronts to backs, backs to fronts.

Pulled and pluged the roofing nail I pcked up the day I stopped to help that over turned semi, no good deed in all....

Then welded up a pinhole in one of my exhaust joints. Did a sound test.
https://youtube.com/shorts/luU1a4TWbbQ?si=5w72K9WDv0HFNJ90

 

And these arrived today


Braied break lines and my Ujoint. Now all I need is a extended Ubolts flip kit. Anyone got any affordable reccomendations. @Mr.bee sent me a few but none for an 00 to 06 tundra 8 inch

 

U bolts are so weak. Get some W bolts.

 

And they both got a cleaning. Garage got moved around and cleaned up a bit as well


Big ole moon tonight

 

Just a reminder for everyone here. After you fuck with your tires drive your truck for 5 to 10 miles and then go check your lug nutss torques spec. I torque mine to 104, OEM max, 100 to 104 FtLb. Did 5 miles 25 to 60mph. Fronts were fine but the rears 10 out of 12 needed re torqued down. But I did all of them as you should.

 

Where does the 104 OEM Max come from? Never heard that before. I always do mine to 90 because I mistakenly thought that was the spec. I think the actual number is 83.

 

Ive been doing 83 for years with no problems and the Toyota mechanic near me does 83 as well.

Plus it also says 83 ft/lb in my FSM

 

I've been doing 85 because hitting 83 on my TW isn't easy for my shit eyes. And I can confirm, it's about 25% less than what I used in uggaduggas with a crossbar with my factory alloys, which IDGAF about. I always go back within 100mi to double-check, as should anyone...

 

Any of you guys had issues with wheel studs breaking over time? When I had my tires replaced the first time the guys broke two studs. When I had my new wheels out on discount tire broke another stud.

the second time was most likely because the dude at the first shop cross threaded the lug nut, but I’ve never had a vehicle that’s broken this many. I went to Napa and bought all they had as spares and have to replace one of the rears this week still.

 

Yes. I had two break on attempted removal when I changed my tires the first time, after getting a flat. I'm convinced it's because apes at the f'n tire shops my previous owner was using were over-torquing, the threads were clearly stretched on the studs.

Note: Dorman studs are great. The rears are different length than the front (unless you have discs in rear), which is an important note. Here are the Dorman part numbers for our '06, which any LAPS should carry:

​

 

Broke a couple when I first bought the truck and the shop i had work done at over torqued it. Ever since always doing it myself at 83 ft lbs its been fine.

Whenever I need to get work done that I cant do, I try to tell the shops 83 ft lbs for the lug nuts. That goes over real well, lol. However the last time I got new tires, Discount Tire obliged and hand torqued them all! I watched them do it, was very pleased.

 

My 2000 spec is 83 ft-lbs. Awoke to a flat with broken valve stem yesterday and had to remove wheel to replace valve stem. I looked it up.

 

One thing I like about Discount Tire is that they always use a torque wrench on my vehicles. If you notice, the torque spec is even printed on the receipt they give you. I wish they would be a little more careful with the air gun when removing but that's wishful thinking.

 

I "found"/ read it in a "Toyota" PDF I down loaded looking for the torque spec for the UBJ castle nut torque spec. It said for the reassembly process to torqe the lugs to 100 to 104, so thats what ive done for the last 4 years

 

same, I emailed him, he responded once and never again. unfortunately, I'll never recommend the fellow TX boy known as "firstgenoffroad".

Hiit up @memario1214 from HotshotOffroad.com, he came to me (when I was asking about SL.com) and his communication/replies were very timely and he price matched SL.com[/QUOTE]

 

FSM has it listed multiple places as 83 ft/lb. I personally do 86, that's what Discount seems to always use on my truck.

 

I second Hotshot Offroad as an excellent vendor. They have a bigger catalog than what's listed on their site if there's a certain product you're looking for.

 

Is there a vendor list that indicates what vendors support the FGT even though their websites indicate otherwise? Other than the replies here, I had never heard of Hotshot. I did stumble across Hotshot while shopping but noticed their website doesn't even mention the BEST GEN TUNDRA so I went elsewhere

 

not that I am aware of. But Hotshot went out of their way to order my parts and put them together. And kept me in the loop the entire time.

 

Vendor subforum is a place to check for official vendors. https://www.tundras.com/categories/official-vendors.7/

 

I've been there. Most of those vendors don't advertise FGT support.

 

Be better. You been here long enough to know there is

 

I literally only come to this forum and maybe the fishing one. It took me awhile to even realize there were more subforums.

 

I’ll have my truck running again before @455h0le_dachshund has his parts in hand

Pulled the driveshaft to begin replacing the RMS. I’ll get a good pic of the completed motor once the engine bay is washed down.

 

You replacing the engine rear main seal or the transmission output shaft seal?

 

Rear main. getting ready to pull the trans