Replacing the front bumper on my 2001 Tundra after hitting black ice.

I have a 2001 Tundra V-8, 4x4 access cab that I took across the country and back a few years ago. We hit a patch of black ice and the front bumper was destroyed and had to be removed. I am finally able to start on repairs but am not sure what is needed or where to go for quality parts for the price.
I've had my truck for 10 years, I've kept up on all required maintenence but I need advice please!

Some of the things I would appreciate help with are-
I've seen bumper kits with anywhere from 1-6 pieces for sale, I don't know which of those I would need? Is there one kind that is better than another?
I think I'm missing a skid plate( Not sure if that's what it's called)

Any help, input and all tips are greatly appreciated!

**trying to add pics but my phone isn't really cooperating.

 

A picture would definitely help, but if you're cost-conscious, looking at salvage yards is a great idea to find a used front bumper assembly.

This is also a useful resource for a used, good condition, front bumper

https://www.car-part.com/

 

For adding pics, just use the "Upload a File" button below the chat box as many times as you need to. Or if you're on a computer, drag-and-drop the pic into the chat box where you want it, it'll auto-upload.

Really, I'd hit a junkyard depending on your locale (i.e. if you're in a unsalted-road area). Do yourself a favor and stick with 2000-2003 model trucks. 2004 saw the Double Cabs come on the scene, and part fitment may not match.

www.car-part.com is a great way to find a salvage yard vehicle near you.

 

Finally got a few pics uploaded, had to borrow a computer because my phone would not do it regardless of how many different ways I tried.
I did check at the local auto wreckers for the bumper but i got there as he was going to lunch. After taking my info, said he'd look and give me a call. I haven't heard back yet, so was planning on going by after work tomorrow.

Cheaper parts are great and all, but after being told my window switch would be over $700. to fix, my son looked up how to fix it and figured it out with a $20.00 part in less than 5 minutes and it works perfectly.
I'm more or less hoping to learn what parts I need for the problems I will list below. Any advice with problems or repairs I should be planning for as my truck nears 250,000 miles, what brands and parts are worth spending some money on, and maybe order the repairs need to be done?

I want to fix my truck up and make it look as close to new as possible- even if it takes awhile Or if that means spending more for quality parts- I'm OK with that since I recently started a second job so I could finally put some money into it.
I know I need to replace--
the front bumper + missing components
Shocks
Brakes
The hood - although that can wait until the really important parts have been replaced
I am concerned about how much rust is visible too. How much of an issue is that going to be? I live on the coast so every vehicle here has a lot of rust, but I'm not sure if this is an excessive amount or if anything can be done?
One of the strips on the top of the cab has cracked but isn't leaking yet
Truck squeaks a bit when going over a speed bump, I'm not sure why.
The fan shroud was cracked due to hitting the guard rail and half of it is missing.

I replaced the high mount brake assembly today, after removing the original assembly found that 2 of the 3 bulbs had burned a hole in the assembly. Is that normal or should it be inspected for faulty wiring? I have had this truck for 10 years and that light has never worked, but I've also had a camper shell on most of those years so never thought about it.

 

Sounds like brakes and shocks are first priority? Quote at a body shop should list what needs fixed and IMHO will likely quote 3000-5000 damage for fender and hood replacement and paint along with the bumper as it looks like the hood and fenders may be bent. The crash bar looks tweaked too although might not need to be replaced but likely the mounting brackets are bent given surrounding damage. If a replacement bumper were mocked into place alignment issues will likely be obvious to inform how to bend everything back or replace items. Bumper might come with the fog lamps. Fixed a deer strike for about $100 that was quoted at over $3000 IIRC but damage was less than this to replace headlight and side marker, and relign fender and bumper mounting brackets after pounding out dent in chrome bumper. Oh also if fan shroud is damaged may find the bracing that fenders and lights mount to is bent. Is the radiator shoved inward?

 

The third brake light above the rear window does often have the area around the bulbs melted. Some replace the whole assembly for cheap with aftermarket parts and some even switch out the halogen bulbs with led.

 

You can definitely get away with cheaper in some cases. Whether it lasts or not is another story. Whether it creates other problems is another-another story. And it's a long story. If you saw the number of goose chases parts - even supposed "genuine" parts - from scAmazon and fleaBay cost people visiting us here just during my time, I could fill a two-part novel.

The brunt of all the knowledge you're going to want, we've compiled into this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

YES, it's a long read. Just read the first two replies. It may save you a world of woe.

I recommend sourcing good-used on this, that way you can get all the random pieces you need without paying an arm and a leg.

If going for OEM+ ride, Bilstein 4600s all the way around, and consider replacing the springs while at it. It's worth the money, you can buy pre-assembled. I can link up one source for pre-assembled. These will be almost identical to what came on all the TRD trucks from the factory.

Avoid Monroe, it's super squishy. Avoid Rough Country, it's cheap garbage. Avoid Rancho, the lower bushings blow out really fast. Avoid other store brands.

Be careful with aftermarket, since drums and rotors are known to be warped straight out of the package.

Front brakes: Advics made the OEM pads and rotors, but buying in the Advics box will cost you 1/2 - 2/3 less than OEM. Your truck came with 13WE calipers. Consider updating to the 13WL caliper used in the later ('03 or '04+) trucks for better braking If you do go with 13WL calipers, you also need to get matching rotors and pads! You'll also need to trim a tiny amount off the dust shield. If you just want to refresh your rotors and pads while sticking with the 13WE calipers, pads and shims for '01 Tundra running 13WE calipers are Advics p/n AD0812 and rotors are p/n A6F004U. Again, DO NOT buy on scAmazon or fleaBay.

Junkyard. www.car-part.com - or try Facebook Marketplace, search for "Tundra parts", you'll be surprised how many list parts trucks on there, and you may get higher quality parts than a JY depending on your area.

Need more pics of the frame to say for sure.

Need pics, if you're just talking about the rubber slats that cover the roof rail rack provisions, it's not super important.

When the front or rear goes over a speed bump? If it's loudest when the rear goes over, you're probably missing the little round shims that should be in between the tips of each leaf in your leaf spring. If it's more linked to the front going over speed bump, it could be any number of things, including your lower ball joints which look the exact same age as everything else, which may mean they're original and/or were replaced under the recall. When was the last time the front lower ball joints were replaced? I'd recommend every 100k miles and ONLY USE OEM LOWER BALL JOINTS.

More importantly, when was the last time the timing belt was replaced? It's the one area on this truck that will turn your engine into a boat anchor if it snaps while running above 1k RPM, Toyota recommends every 9yr or 90k miles, I'd conservatively say 10yr / 100k miles.

Cheap part to replace off a parts truck, and important for cooling.

Totally normal. The housing is sold as an assembly and is spendy.

Someone may've pulled the fuse due to the camper. Folks do that, it's the cargo lamp fuse. If pressing the CARGO LAMP button below the radio doesn't turn on the white lights on either side of the 3rd brake light, that's what they did. Put a fuse into that slot in the in-dash fusebox and you're golden. Or if a fuse is in the slot already, replace it. (EDIT: Adding a picture of CARGO fuse location on your '01 sourced from the internet)

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On the pics, riddle me this, are either of these cracks in the steel? (The right-hand one looks to be)
Any other cracks in the steel to be aware of?

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Thank you so much! This really helps me a lot! Hope it's Rockauto.com for parts? I bought new headlights and turn signals from them for a lot less than I found on some other sites and have tried to avoid buying from Amazon and ebay because the few times I have, I ended up being sent the wrong items or something different- ebay sent me the wrong radiator once and which I returned and went to O'Reillys instead. And they are marginally better at getting the right part on my experience although that could just be a problem with them here.

 

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RockAuto and Summit Racing are great parts sources with a verified supply chain, safe to use. And they often beat the lowest scammer pricing on scAmazon or fleaBay. You can typically find coupons for both.

For stuff the LAPS (local auto parts stores) carry, Advance Auto almost always has a 15% or 20% off coupon for online order (in-store pickup), so things like NGK spark plugs, for example, can be had cheaper than advertised to get them in the ballpark. RMN15 is one of those coupons. Sometimes you can get DENSO, AISIN, ADVICS and other known-Toyota-brands through NAPA as well, but you'll pay a premium because .... well, NAPA. I'm convinced the "P" is actually for "PAY-ME"

 

I want to bring this up again because I didn't see an answer. If you haven't done this and you've owned it 10 years it's time. If you don't know when it was done before you owned it then it's past time. Needs to be #1 priority.

We need frame pictures to see where things lay on this truck. If you want this truck back close to original it's gonna take a lot of time and money and depending on frame condition that may or may not be worth it. Pics of the back half of the frame are very helpful, as many pictures of things as you can get and post would be good.

Other than timing belt I'd definitely consider adding lower ball joints to that list as well. It can be dangerous and damaging if they fail. OEM parts only on that.

 

I think a trip to a body shop for a quote is the first step. You may have way more damage than you think. Those cracks in the frame are pretty concerning. Even if you source all of the components you need, it may not all line up anymore if things are twisted a bit. May also affect the ability to align the truck properly and would result in repeated premature tire wear. Need to take stock overall and make sure the truck is worth keeping. I had an E34 BMW 525i that I dearly loved that had 455k miles on it. I contemplated "fixing it all up". Paint, mechanicals, interior and what not would have me around $6-8k and a super clean example that had history for me. Turns out low mileage garage queen examples of that car were going for $3500 or so. I sold it and saved myself the trouble. Make sure that yours is worth the trouble.