P0335 After Timing Belt Replacement

Hi guys,

I've just done the timing belt on my 2000 Tundra (2UZ-FE engine) but I think I screwed something up. The code given is P0335 (Crankshaft position sensor A). My thinking is to do the following:

1. Go to the O'Reilly's up the street tomorrow and get the battery tested (according to the internet, this might be the problem, and it's dying pretty quick after starting attempts).
2. If #1 fails, replace the crankshaft position sensor and the little gear that it reads.

But I figured I would consult a forum first since I am pretty clearly screwing up somewhere along the line! Timing is definitely not the issue (I rotated the engine by hand and it still lined up at top dead center). I am also pretty sure I put the crankshaft sensor plate in correctly (concave side facing the A/C condenser). The sensor appears to be plugged in with no visible damage to the wiring.

Thanks in advance for anybody who can help out a newbie!

 

Biggest idiot mistake most people make when doing TB/WP is not correctly routing the crank position sensor wire harness, and it gets nicked by belt/pulley. It needs to tuck behind the mount of the water pump. That's one of many topics discussed over here, with pics.

Check your wiring, first and foremost. If it happened IMMEDIATELY, like, CEL popped on within the first few miles, maybe you failed to plug in the crankshaft position sensor? Or you bent a pin when plugging in?

Go through the basic stuff first. You can see the sensor and its harness as-is. Get up under the front, with skid plate off (if applicable) and check. You can potentially check from above also.

Whatever you do, don't buy aftermarket brand sensors for your Tundra. Huge mistake. But if this started right after doing the TB, check wiring first, check sensor, confirm plug was firmly snapped on, unplug/check pins/replug.

 

Your camshaft position sensor on the driver side is rubbing on the serpentine belt. You can replace it with a Denso one from rockauto they are the OEM supplier

I had the same exact problem last week although the code says crankshaft position sensor, it is your camshaft position sensor having the issue

 

P0335 is crankshaft sensor, not camshaft.

 

Thanks, both. Yeah, it happened immediately, and the truck won't start. I will play with it tomorrow and see if the connector isn't in all the way or something. These pics are a great resource and I'll check the wiring shield near the A/C condenser to see if the belt has intruded into it.

 

Correct, the crankshaft position sensor is - at least in my '06, IIRC from FSM - critical to the continued operation of the fuel pump. If the ECM isn't getting a signal from the crank position sensor to indicate the engine is running, it won't continue pumping fuel. Safety feature, I reckon.

 

And to @jerryallday's edited point: If it is the camshaft position sensor, I seem to recall the earlier model Tundras lacked a specific retention clip for the camshaft position sensor that left it open to peril. We've seen a number of '00-'01 owners with rub-through on theirs.

 

Hi guys, a couple of updates:

1. I replaced the battery, truck still tries to start but does not.
2. All the wiring seems to be intact. I had to bend a piece out of the way on the A/C compressor to get to one of the bolts which might have bumped into a connector there?
3. I cleared the code and can't get it to replicate (new or old battery).
4. There was some sort of continuous beep coming from what sounded like the engine bay after my first starting attempt today. Fuel pump pressurizing perhaps?
5. I pulled off the driver's side camshaft cover and checked. The sensor seemed to be in place although that was only by feel. I couldn't get my phone to take a good photo in the limited space. Also, couldn't get the cover properly back on.

I have a new crankshaft position sensor on the way. If that does not do the trick I will have it towed to a shop next week.

 

I am going to check the timing again tomorrow...if it's off, can I get away with just removing the tensioner and #2 pulley? Then adjusting and replacing those. I imagine #2 is under a cover, maybe the tensioner for the accessory belt...

Edit - just logging these steps for future Googlers. I just re-confirmed the timing, this time with the harmonic balancer attached. It aligns to top dead center (the "0" on timing cover #1) along with both cams (the lone dash, not the "T" you use to mount the belt). On the bright side, the timing is set correctly.

I ordered crank and cam sensors and I will try to install them tomorrow or Monday. If that doesn't work, I'm out of ideas.

 

So, I tried to install the new crank sensor but the connector and wires separated as I was attempting to unplug the old sensor. So, going to have it towed to a Toyota dealer. Hope they can attach a new sensor and diagnose the issue. I will try to post what it was here if/when I know.

 

Don't cut any wires. You can purchase the connector from Toyota and insert the wire pins/seals into the new connector.

 

Update: Toyota dealership cannot reattach the connector, they say since the wire is shielded that it can't be soldered. I have to buy the whole harness which apparently is not available. Wondering if I should sell this boat anchor for whatever I can get.

 

You just need to find a local mechanic or electrician that’s willing to do it. The dealership probably just doesn’t want the liability of some soldered wires. I did mine when the wires got cut by the belt

can you add some photos

or go to the junk yard and cut the pig tails/harness from a truck

I think you will end up paying like $50-80 and getting it fixed. Where are you located?

 

This. Or hit a junkyard. The harness is out there.

 

Is there a guide out there to replacing the relevant part of the harness? I think I will also need to check the connectors with a multimeter to ensure there is signal coming through.

 

Add a photo(s) of what you currently have

 

Has anyone here ever done a How-to de-pin post with high res close ups? I've had to do it a few times.

 

https://youtu.be/Wb2VOGU7qc8?si=r0mXFvcgmDJbtp3E

 

I should have it back from the other shop on Monday (they refused to work on it, something about timing belt and they didn't want the liability, blah blah). I think I will have to take care of this.

I ordered a multimeter. My thinking is that I will check the fuze box for blown fuses, check the crank shaft sensor, and check the cam shaft sensor and wiring if that is not it. Rather than solder or crimp the connector it would seem that I can just get the front of the wiring harness from a junk yard. I can't find a diagram of what the relevant piece would look like though.

I will also check the electrical on the A/C compressor. There was a piece I had to bend out of the way to get to the bolt that connects to the fan bracket. The plate is connected with a phillips head screw but that is rusted tight. Might have bumped a wire there or something. In that case, might be easier to replace the entire compressor than just the electrical.

Also, is there any way to check whether I had the incorrect orientation of the crank shaft sensor plate without pulling the harmonic balancer? Maybe reach up in the hole where the crank shaft sensor goes and feel around?

 

About to do some o-rings tomorrow and noticed if you pull the oil cooler off off you have a ton of of room to work in your situation

 

Any update on this, OP?

Thank ya

 

So if I hook up the volt meter to one of the wires

Nothing yet. I've had it towed to another shop and am waiting to hear back from them. Hopefully, it'll be a fairly straightforward repair to the wiring.

If the cam spins with the belt off, that is OK as long as you turn it back to the "T" mark, right? And do it clockwise.

 

Did that happen? There is potential for the valves to contact the pistons. How does it spin with the belt off? Should have nothing to do with your crankshaft sensor problem. There is potential that the cam is out of time. Any pics of the timing marks? There's a marked indent that the cams line up with, not the T.

 

Just speculating. The marks line up totally on the harmonic balancer and the cams whether at the T or top dead center.

The shop just called and the girl said that the wiring harness was routed behind the water pump. I don't think that's possible but the tl;dr seems to be that the wiring got pinched someplace. Anyway, after paying for the truck again (1200 worth of work, 1500 truck) it should be working...I hope.

 

Turned out to be something to do with the wiring.

 

"Something"

 

lol. It does rule out the crankshaft sensor plate etc. They still said it was the wiring near the water pump that was an issue. Maybe the cam sensor? I would think I'd have noticed wires being pinched when putting that in and/or torquing it to spec.

The water pump is supposed to have sealant behind it too. I Googled this but the whole internet said "don't put sealant behind the water pump" so I didn't. Was leaking bad when they got it running, they had to disassemble it and do the job again basically because of that.

Truck is running fine now, but threw a P1320 (igniter circuit failure bank 5) one time as I took a right turn. I moved the coil to see if the code follows, but I can't get it to throw it again. Might have electrical gremlins now? I would think if it were the cylinder losing compression, it would throw that all the time.

 

The crankshaft position sensor is supposed to get routed behind one of the supports of the water pump. If you fail to do that, it gets nicked, then cut by belt. It's literally the first sentence I wrote in reply, because it happens so frequently.

 

Photos of typical damage, from the megathread, along with one solution if you can't reroute easily after the fact (note the water pump leg it's zip-tied to):