What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Did the retainers look good still? I would assume that’s where it’s leaking, I think that’s what contacts the seal

 

Everything still looked good. Only a few 1000 miles on them.

 

Soooo……..
I think the retainers have a bevel or chamfer if you will, and that’s supposed to be up towards the diff end of the axle. It looks like yours are facing away towards the hub end.

 

Also maybe pop the abs sensor on the side that’s leaking and compare it to the other side if it’s not leaking.
I don’t like the guys measuring technique in the video on the webs, he measures from a ever changing poijt(bad bearing) I measured from the axel tip instead as a known control.
I’m not sure if anyone has that measurement for a AC, hahah I definitely don’t remember what mine was, but I also noticed; one side was a little deeper than the other looking thru the abs sensor hole…… knock on cardboard….. no leaks yet!

 

I used the Rust oleum wheel paint too, looks pretty good after one winter/salt etc..

 

So…. It’ll look good pretty good 10 years from now in Texas

 

yup, fact.

 

How’d your backing plate get so crusty rusty?

You aren’t driving unprotected in the snow are you?

 

I could be wrong but a lot of that looks like West Texas sand/crud stuck to gear oil. Not rust.

 

Ah. Can't see that level of distinction on my phone. My bad.

 

Makes sense. I just unpressed and repressed what was on there. I'm prepared to do it again, and use OEM this time. I'm thinking this time if I buy a press, I can shove it in the shed of shame, that way I can sharpie test the axle easily. Just thoughts at this point.

 

Yup. Just dirt soaked gear oil.

 

Can we drive 33 miles without police intervention during the Friday morning commute, all highway, through downtown Knoxville?

 

gonna zip tie the taillights to the bumper?

 

haha yeah zip ties like Dennis Reynolds.

 

Pick up a sheet of 3/4” 4x8 MDF for your new flatbed there @jpink.

 

Most states require fenders of some kind cover the tires. Think you'll be fine for a short drive. Gonna wire wheel and treat all the barnacled areas first, right? Love the team ramrod bed in the background at the JY.

 

Yeah, gonna clean it up as best I can did a quick blast with the pressure washer down the street. Had to get to work but gonna go spend some more time there tonight.
Not sure why they felt the need to drill a 2nd hole and weld but as @FirstGenVol keeps saying, if this truck could talk.



After the quick run at it with the pressure washer. Will go back for more attention later.


https://youtu.be/SXEskKKELd0

 

So I tried a different alignment shop today. All they do is suspension and brake work. On the phone, the owner knew that our trucks do well with caster around 3.

Instead of using the Hunter machine they went old school and did it manually. The truck drives straight but the wheel is slightly crooked which is frustrating. They had to completely reset the toe after I replaced the tie rods.

This was the most expensive alignment I've ever paid for. $195. Literally double the price the 4x4 shop charges. I had high hopes but I'm not sure it was worth it. One positive thing is that I didn't rub at all. Went full lock to full lock and didn't touch the fender liners.




I noticed this eccentric cam is is a completely different position than it was previously.




Passenger side is not.

 

Looks like you started with more camber on the driver's side and they had to adjust to zero it out. I would also take it back and make them fix the crooked steering wheel, not that hard.

 

Go to Harbor Freight, get some cheap round brake lights for a trailer and install those. As long as you have brake lights they should be lenient.

 

That's actually not asw bad as I was thinking, I don't see much delam/flaking (some accumulation, but looks superficial). 30 mins of mediablasting, blowoff, self-etch primer, then seal with a topcoat a couple passes within recoat window, it's good for another 10-20yrs.

I guess in a pinch, you could wirewheel it, but ... it'll take a couple hours and won't be as thorough.

That LSPV hsa seen better days ...

 

Yeah, for being a FGT kept outdoors in Minnesota and Iowa for the first 16 years, not bad all things considered. Bought a fair amount of the POR-15 degreaser/etch (gallon each) and will work through the process once I blast the frame some more.

 

I agree. With a little TLC I think the frame will be good for a while. The issue is that damn coating they put on it. I noticed when under the truck a few weeks ago it's peeling off. We just need to knock as much off as possible so we can treat the rust with POR-15.

 

My factory skid is ready for Valhalla

 

Witnessed

 

nailed it