Access Cabs and 6112 lifts, 1” only?

Hey Tundra people, long time reader first time poster. I have found many answers to my question, many different answers, but no first hand experiences.

Have you, or someone you know, installed Bilstein 6112 front struts (part#47-310049) on a 2000-06 access cab? 2wd or 4x4 doesn’t matter to me. I want to know what clip setting you used, and lift gained. A picture would be great too.

on Bilstein’s website they say not to exceed the #6,#4 clip position on a 4wd v8 access cab. They also say that the max setting #6,#4 position will only allow 1” of lift- but that the same setting on a double cab will provide more lift. I don’t understand how that works with identical struts and a heavier cab. Looking for first hand experience and real world numbers. I just want a good 2” lift that is a decent $ to performance ratio, need to fit 255/85r16 at4w tires under it. Hunting in Montana the roads get really rough but I won’t be rock crawling. There’s aren’t any 6112s in stock, no you can’t buy 255/85r16 at4w’s yet, and this lift isn’t even for my current truck. Hoping to sell my 05 2wd and buy a 4x4 soon, love it but need more tires to spin.

 

It makes no sense they way they won’t include lift spring options for the 6112s given what they cost. I don’t understand why anyone would want those to preload the spings to achieve lift like the 5100s do. At least with the 5100s you can run a lift spring and keep the clips at the bottom notch.

 

Exactly, somebody out there has worked this out. Eibach does make a 700lb spring for 6112’s, who knows where that puts it. Seperate companies out there are offering 6112 lift kits with all the same parts and some say max 1” and others never read the Bilstein instructions and say 2” on the same setting. I would love a taller spring to reduce preload.

 

You can’t trust anything online retailers are saying anyway, everything is targeted towards whatever cab and drivetrain they’ve had experience with installs on. Which overwhelmingly tends to be double cab. Based on before/after results folks on here and other 1st gen Tundra forums have seen. I feel bad for anyone who fails to check lift threads here and see what results others have gotten out of their respective lifts while hoping to buy the same equipment.

EDIT: But it is odd if Bilstein is showing different taller results on DC than AC. Or maybe I read that wrong.

 

If it's just for minor offroad stuff the 6112s are gonna be overkill. The toytec ultimate kit I have would be just fine for that at around $1500. I did some decent offroad with them and they're not bad. I also have 255x85xr16 coopers and 1.25" spacers and have a slight rub due to bad alignment. With a good alignment and a hammered pinch weld it would have 0 rub. Just my .02.

 

The 650lb springs are 15.6" long, the 700lb springs are 16" long.

I have the 650lb springs mounted at the bottom setting & i think its perfect. Not quite leveled, but it rides great on the highway & some roughish utv trails.

 

Nice wheels Mr Bee, unrelated but FYI MBWheels has discontinued those wheels. I found out when trying to buy a replacement after smashing one into a curb. Maybe unimportant but I figured I would let you know anyway.

 

For the right price, you could have four spares...

 

Yes I thought I was reading it wrong also. I still can’t believe it would be true so I’m checking out what others have seen.

 

Bmf4069, that’s good to hear about your tires. Toytec is what I’m probably looking at if this fails, I just like the idea of 60mm struts. I drive 60% highway and 40% dirt roads, never in town, and I thought that the 6112 would be comfortable for hours both on highway and washboard roads, maybe even last longer also.

I’m trying to avoid spacers and found what I think are decent wheels to mount. They appear sturdy and ugly, Outlaws Dune 16x7 0-offset. Only 19lbs and can support 4000lbs. My calculations show that from stock (17x7.5-+18mm offset) they should move the inner wheel edge +24mm(1”)out away from the truck and the outer edge +12mm(0.5”) out. I wanted the narrow width for extra seal when airing down. I believe that the 05-06 had larger brakes but still came stock with some 16” wheels, does anyone know how to check if a particular wheel would cause interference?

 

On the right track, however where the tire edge is vs where the wheel edge is will be different ; not by much. So you have a good idea on clearances. Just don't be surprised by a little extra meat

 

I’m pretty sure the 255/85r16 will be less than or at most equal to stock tire width, I’m hoping the extra inch of inside clearance will help me use chains when the passes require them.

 

Thanks Mr.bee, I would be super interested in where it sits on the #6,#4 setting compared to the lowest setting you currently have. Please report your findings if you ever try it. Did you use clip #3,#1 to accommodate for the lean or just set them both at #1?

 

Both sides are #1, and i load my tools & stuff on the passenger side to compensate for any lean. Also removed my front swaybar.

no regerts, theres a little extra lean on long fast corners, but not enough to cause problems.

 

Well. As @Shifty mentioned....make sure you read up beforehand. I purchased a set of 6112's from a Jeep shop NIB for around 560-$600 shipped just to find out Mr. Billy does not recomend or warranty use on RCLB applications.

I messaged @shifty` about this and we speculated weight or maybe Billy did not due R&D bc not many RCLB V8 4X4 SR5 where sold?

I finally emailed bilstein and they said :

"Standard cab and AC cab vehicles have a shorter driveline then DC and encounter suspenion and driveline suspension and geometry issues quickly when lifted. "

** please note this is just off memory, i did send shifty Bilsteins email too. But this was their (billy) justification to limit to 1" of lift on non- DC body styles.

Now , i personally think its a weight or clearance with spring to factory UCA thing as the 6112's are beafy. I have spoken to two shops that have installed them no problem on 2002+ RC and AC and both stated to use same circlip unless DC and that 05+ DC (crew cabs) have more weight on fuel tank side. I was told for RC and AC #2=1", #3=2" and to not go any higher without aftermarket UCA or clearance could become issue.

* please note this is all non-first hand experience , but a few guys witg AC and RC do run them on here and dont post a ton. If I could sell the 6122's i would prob go toytec. But have come to like to KYB ride quality for my use. The whole lifting IFS thing and different circlips is weird to me as well, but, plenty of people love them. Sorry for long post.

 

Thanks BlueGrape! I really appreciate your input. I’m open to throwing some UCAs on to make it fit/ride perfect. Hopefully someone with an AC 4x4 and Billy 6112’s can chime in with their results. I don’t understand the different clip settings either, did our stock shocks come specifically for the right and left side? does the lean not exist if not lifted?

I’ve been watching Tinkerers Adventures on YouTube and feel like I’m getting a decent understanding of how to make the right decisions with lift geometry. He doesn’t talk about first gen’s specific mechanics, but doesn’t seem to be a fan of dif drops in Toyota IFS. Maybe there is something different about our CV angle in the RC/AC vs DC, I hope Billy will tell me what failed at higher lifts to set their recommendation at 1”

 

The original springs are side specific. And every set of leafs i've pulled off have had a bit of difference in height it seems like if i'd bought mine with the springs assembled 1/3 or 2/4 it woud have added a lean that wasnt there. But my truck lived a pretty easy life before i got ahold of it.

 

No prob email this dude from Bilstein.

Smith, Joseph <Joseph.Smith3@thyssenkrupp-automotive.com>Smith, Joseph <Joseph.Smith3@thyssenkrupp-automotive.com>

 

Not sure if its the ramps but it looks like you got 3" on bottom clip lol. Did you happen to measure?

 

It was over an inch the first day, but settled fairly quickly down to about 1/2", and thats about how far my stock bushings had collapsed, so i'd call it 0" lift.

 

Well things are moving along, when I started this post I didn’t have a white AC with blown struts. Now I’m gathering pieces for this lift. Got new EBC rotors (USR7158) and pads (ED+ redstuff ED91657) to stop the heavier tires. I installed yellowstuff on my other tundra and have had great braking and lifespan of both pads and rotors. They do make the wheels dusty. I Have some fancy 05-06 stock 16x7 wheels for the 255/85r16 at4w tires. Stock offset should help me tuck better with less rubbing. Going to start by buying them, 255/85r16, first and seeing where I actually need lift, Ideally a low center of gravity 1” lift would suit me fine, but the tire sticky thread says I need more lift for 33”s.

what shops did you talk to? maybe I could call them and hear what their customers said afterwards. How much lift did you put on your RC with the 6112’s again? I don’t know why but I’m feeling hellbent on the 6112/5460 combo. I will get the 700# spring on a lower c-clip setting if that helps me. Will probably want SPC UCAs but they are expensive now!! More than 2x other brands. Still worth it?

if you or a love one have been exposed to an AC on 6112’s, you may be entitled to compensation. please report your findings on this thread

 

Still happy with mine. I have since found out the 700# springs are longer, like a full 16" where the 650# springs ar only 15.6" or something. So if/when i get a bumper i might step up to the 700's instead of moving my clips.my ubj's are holding grease fine, gonna give the uca's a couple pumps today to see what comes out, but the grease came out clean last month.

 

It’s been stated elsewhere but you don’t need to buy them under the SPC brand. You can get actual SPC UCA under other brands for cheaper. I paid around $500 for mine and they came in an Eibach box. There’s more info on that here in the forum. Search for SPC Eibach Mevotech, and filter based on my username.

 

You're gonna want spacers too. With the stock wheels and 255s, they'll be tucked in pretty far. Here's how mine sits with stock wheels, 255s, and 1.25 spacers:

 

I’m with you. spacers, clips, and increased spring length all reduce available up travel, but for some reason the longer springs seem like the “right” way

I had not heard of these, thank you I will look into it, I also got an offer from a member here to buy their SPC uppers.

Dang you’re probably right about the spacers. I prefer function over looks so it’s more important to me that it fits without rubbing, but also I still care about looks haha. My new truck also has those stock flared fender flares (FFF) compared to my old metal trimmed ones. I found some 0 offset wheels that will move the outside edge +.5” and I can try spacers. Thanks for the pictures that really helps me visualise it

 

Now I'm at a real keyboard, part numbers here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/mevotech-ucas-same-as-spc.60435/page-6#post-2996791

Proof (on Eibach at least) here, from my order: https://www.tundras.com/threads/mevotech-ucas-same-as-spc.60435/page-6#post-2996775

Someone on here that was lucky enough to actually find both the Mevotech arms in stock online (they sell left/right separately, which makes it a PITA) showed theirs were SPC also.

Note the picture at Eibach's website shows a generic UCA. Don't be fooled.