Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Thanks...Thinking a simple fix however just wanted to be sure if there is anything under the bolt if removed besides a washer..

 

Sorry I don't know never taken it out. Would be interesting to see if anything is behind it. Waiting to see

 

Use brake clean and clean it up and see if it comes back. Could be from the last oil change or could be higher up and running down.

 

LOTSOFTOYS, I got a question for you
Ok so I’ve got a 2010 Toyota tundra xsp with 200,xxx miles and it’s making noise when I either speed up or decelerate it makes a clunking noise and it somewhat shakes but I’ve narrowed it down to either 1. It’s the carrier bearing or 2. It’s my rearend or 3. its my driveshaft u-joints either way I need to get it fixed I’ve looked at All the parts I need and the rear end has been serviced regularly like it should so I really don’t see why it would be making noise it does it sometimes tho it’s not all the time I don’t know what it would be.

 

Update on my check engine light.
I was at a lost because I put a new MAF sensor on and a new vacuum line on that was cracked. The light was still on. I read it takes 20-50 miles for MAF to reprogram itself. Couple of hundred miles later, still on. Took it to the dealership and he found a gasket leak from the throttle body spacer. So I got a new throttle body gasket and threw away the spacer. It really didn’t make a difference. Now the check engine light is still on. I’ll drive it a little to see if it goes off.

 

I'd be asking the dealer why they didn't clear the code and now would be a good time thankyouverymuch.

 

Can you clear codes? Maybe go back to autozone and have them clear it or invest in a cheap scanner just ro clear codes. If it does come back on put the stock air box back on, clear the codes and see if it comes back. If it does then your looking for another vacuum leak or the MAF is still dirty.

 

Very cool thread!!

 

I put a new MAF sensor on. I would think it is clean. I don’t have the stock air box. Auto Zone said they won’t clear it because of liability concerns. I’ll wait awhile to see if it clears after I drive it some more. I may get a scanner to clear codes.

 

If the sensor is new then its clean. Did you use a Toyota MAF? The aftermarket sensors don't play well. If it is a Toyota MAF then start checking for other vacuum leaks.

 

I need a column shifter replaced on my 16 with tow package. My local dealer quoted me 4hrs plus parts. Want to do it myself but i need the connecter diagram for the 14 pin connector its wired to. Can you help?

 

Got it at Auto Zone. I’ll check for more leaks for probably the 10th time. Who knows, maybe I’ll find it this time.

 

Where is the old MAF? Can you clean it and try it? Likely there was nothing wrong with it. It's pretty rare that they fail.

 

I did clean it and tried it again. Nothing. It’s already been replaced and old one thrown away. It was probably good because afterwards the dealership guy found a leak from the throttle body spacer gasket.

 

I still don't understand why the dealer didn't clear the code. Have you considered going back to them and having them complete the repair?

 

Yes. If it doesn’t go off, I’ll make an appointment again with the dealership.

 

If you have access to a scan tool that shows live data, you may want to look at the fuel trims. In the event there was another leak somewhere the fuel trims would help to show that. A cheap OBDII code reader is worth buying. I have a more advanced one that keeps me busy with helping friends, it was a good investment.

 

I have questions.
I just hit 100K miles on my 2014 2WD and I need to have fluid changes done.
I need coolant, power steering, transmission, and rear differential fluid changes.
I have no time or desire to do it myself.
Pretty sure I'll have my dealership do it since they've done all my oil changes and I'd like to keep my records there.
However, I would like to remove my TRD skidplate and/or cat shields myself and replace them when done if needed.

Questions are:
1. Do I need to remove my TRD skid plate for a coolant change?
2. Do I need to remove my cat shields for a trans fluid change or flush (whatever they do)?

Thank you..1LL

 

Yes, and yes. Both skids block access to the items you wish to have serviced.

 

Thank you.
I'll remove and replace them myself.

You are appreciated...

 

i just got transmission done , and there a lil fluid dripped everyday , is it normal ? should i worry ? tia

 

Not normal. Could have been over filled. Could be bad seal.

 

That's the transmission tail shaft seal leaking, so no, not normal. What did you have done to the Trans?

 

Tailshaft seal is cheap and easy replacement.

 

Did some front end work on my 2016 tundra and got the dreaded Christmas tree dashboard light when I was done. I think every warning light possible is on besides check engine light. Speedo still works. Truck drives with normal amount of power. Checked codes and had low or high voltage to abs module plus open circuit on both front wheel speed sensors as well as rear driver wheel speed sensor. Crazy as I didn't even touch the rear end. Assumed before I pulled the codes it was my front right abs wire as I thought I stretched the wire at one point so I bought a new sensor side harness and replaced it with all codes still being thrown. Pulled the front right abs sensor out and cleaned it off. Had a minor buildup of grease on it and front right open circuit code didn't come back after I cleared the codes. Put my old wire back in just to see if that had any Impact and code still didn't come back. Low voltage code clears when checking with my cheap code reader and stays gone until I start the truck. I shut it off and low voltage code comes back. The other open circuit codes on driver side come back immediately after reset. My first question is can an open circuit code cause the low or high voltage code to abs module? Tested my battery and alternator and both check out good. Just got home from work and am about to try cleaning the other sensors and see what happens. Just doesn't sound like an open circuit code would cause a low or high voltage code to abs module.

 

Also wondering if anyone knows which pin I can use to check voltage at the harness side to my abs module

 

Cleaned front driver sensor no change. I have correct voltage at both front and rear left harness side 11.7. Couldn't get an ohm reading on the front left sensor side harness but I couldn't really get one on the passenger side when I tested it. It would jump everytime I touched the probe to it but then would go back down to 0 but no code came back after I cleared that side the first time. Couldn't replicate that on the passenger side though. It was just stuck on 0. Guess next thing to try is a sensor side harness for the driver side?

 

So just curious to who works at the dealership I got a question. "When a truck comes in for an oil change and you guys recommend all the additional stuff how do you get your info" for the additional service just go off of mileage, pull up vin, or get under it and look?
Just saying this because a dealership said I needed this done but the funny this is I'm 2wd so what's the real deal

 

I might guess that in this case they're basing it on mileage, the VIN should indicate that it's 4WD, and it seems pretty obvious that anyone with half a brain didn't look underneath.

 

This is a clear indication that you need to find another place to have it serviced.