Undercarriage coating/spray recommendations for 2016 Tundra

I'd say it depends how dirty it is under there. Is it caked with dirt/mud from back roads? Or is it just normal dirty from paved roads? Myself, I use a water broom attachment on my power washer to clean under our trucks a day or two before getting them coated each year, our trucks are mostly driven on paved roads though so they don't get super dirty under there. Keep in mind, once it's protected, you really shouldn't power wash under there as that will decrease the effectiveness of the coating, for example Krown recommends avoiding hot water, degreasers and power washers. They do recommend washing the under body with a salt eliminator 1-2 a year though.

As for when to have it done, if it's never been done I'd do it now

 

1 Remove all the obstructions you can, like skids and spare tire. I would suggest to remove the rear bumper as well, but its bolts are likely already rusted, plus the plastic cover will be wasted
2. Power wash everywhere. The most rust prone areas are top of the frame, in poorly ventilated areas, where dirt and salt accumulates and holds moisture
3. Dry it well
4. Degrease what you can
5. Pull the frame channel plugs, spray insides of the channels with cavity wax and long 360 degree wand

Next steps divert.

6. Coat outer frame with cheap kerosene-based products every year

or

7. Spray with bedliner gun and tar-like rust protection product. I use Noxudol 900.
8. Spray hard to reach areas and joints with cavity wax

This will last you for years, even if offroad waist-deep in snow regularly.

 

Will a regular hand washing clean all the overspray off the truck.

 

Yes

The place I go to uses a power washer to rinse, apply foam soap and rinse off the truck. You can pay extra for a hand wash but I just do that myself after a week or so.

 

If you're just talking highway/road dirty (not in a salt belt either), get an oscillating lawn sprinkler (the kind that makes the fan shape). Set it under your front axle for 5 min, middle of truck 5 min, rear axle 5 min.

If you off road, an auto wash with the undercarriage blaster is probably necessary at least twice prior to the sprinkler method. Good luck.

 

Yes.
The place I go, they wash the outside the vehicle of any overspray.

$160 cdn. for the full treatment so $80 for the underspray.
For DIY - You can also buy a case of 12 cans for $120.00. Regular price for one can is $15.99
You'll use a few cans but you can't get the coverage a shop can do.

The cans comes with a really good nozzle that let you soak or raise the nozzle and it sends the product a good 4 feet.
You can use an undercarriage washer hooked to your pressure washer to clean prior to application. or tell the shop to do it.

 

I use the CRC stuff and it doesnt wash off, I use a water broom attachment for my power washer to rinse the salt off underneath during the winter. With the info readily available I'm surprised anyone is using anything besides this stuff.


https://youtu.be/eLJWbbUpnH8

 

I have had the undercarriage sprayed with NH oil and Fluid film 3 times. I have it sprayed now every other year as I’m retired now and don’t have to drive in the snow and ice to work anymore. Just keep up with whatever you choose and you’ll be fine

 

Another vote for CRC Marine coating. I use that and FF in some areas. The CRC lasts much longer.

 

I used this guy in Canada

https://www.sublimesurfacing.com/

he,dry ice blasts the undercarriage then coats with a wax with rust inhibitors. No matter what you coat with it’s important the surface is clean, and nothing cleans better than dry ice.

he also removes wheel well liners. It’s amazing what accumulates (dirt/dust) and that stuff holds moisture. Never mind salt. Good old due cycle combined with years of,dirt = rust.

I think this guy is the best. I drove 1300km to,have it done

 

Where do you get yours done?

 

No to FF
Moly bearing grease via sponge held up for 3 winters in Maine with no rust.
Previous fall I removed bed and treated with Cosmoline RP342 and another layer of CRC marine.

 

Wow!! Nice Lil video!! Looks like CRC is very effective!! Thanks for sharing!!

 

A place called Steel City Undercoating, its about 45 min east of Pittsburgh.

 

I am a fan of Project Farm and saw the video with CRC and as a boater I am familiar with it.
heres the thing.
If you live in the rust belt a good application with a good product is just as important if not more.
IF DIY - You don't want to get CRC on your belts and other linkages as it is a wax that hardens.
You don't want a spotty application.
CRC will also destroy whatever you are wearing when applying and you need a mask.
Fluid Film and Krown are forgiving and they creep better so if you miss the corners or cant get to them there is a good chance the product will make its way there.

I am going to be doing my wifes outback probably DIY with undercarriage cleaner then the rust inhibiter.
Thinking of CRC but I will probably use Krown for reasons stated.
Krown cans are also really good for getting into frame holes and other hard to reach spots.
Like I said earlier with the nozzle up it shoots the product 4 feet.

 

Another vote here for Krown. I've had my truck coated 5 years in a row by a Line-X shop here in PA. I believe I pay $159. The only rust I've ever found since then is a little on the top of the rear shock mount which gets sprayed by the tires. A little bit of spot treatment with FF or surface shield and it's good as new. The biggest perk about Krown over DIY with Fluid film or anything similar is that they get inside the body cavities and deep inside the frame too. That's where you'll have real problems, is rust where you can't see it.

I spray my daily driver Subaru with FF, and now Surface shield as best I can, but for the truck, and it's massive amount of surface areas, I prefer Krown since it creeps so well.

 

Painter's coverall and vapor mask is cheap and a very wise idea for any quantitative spray job. When I invent a time machine, I go back to when I was 30 and punch myself into the nose that still felt some aroma.