Replacing LBJ's front shocks/coil overs

Good points. What/where are the half-moon plugs?

My valve cover gaskets were replaced, IIRC, around 100,000-110,000 miles so I have no doubt it is time again. Interestingly enough, the stealership told me about the valve cover gaskets at about 80,000 miles, which I postponed, but then told me around 100,000 miles that my oil pan gasket also needed replacing. When my former regular shop that specialized in Japanese vehicles, particularly Toyota's, replaced my valve cover gaskets they checked and said the oil pan gasket was fine, it was just the oil dripping down from the valve cover leak. Why should I be surprised? And now at over 300,000 miles it still has never dripped oil on the driveway, ever, so there is little doubt they were wrong (at that time) about the oil pan gasket.

I need to research the best way to clean up the residue from the oil leak, especially after replacing the valve cover gaskets, if for no other reason that to help ensure there are no other leaks.

Yes, my bellows did have 2 holes on the passenger side. Haven't checked drivers side thoroughly yet since I know I need to replace them. Too bad I already got it aligned. I replaced the driver's side outside tie rod end, should I go ahead and replace the passenger side while I am at it? Any brand recs on the bellows? I see there are quite a few to choose from

Anything else you noticed from the pics? I need to make myself a checklist of things I need to inspect in the front end. But, overall I must say I was impressed with how everything looked on the surface regarding rust and general appearance. I probably should have checked the sway bar bushings. I wish it had a little less sway. It isn't bad at all, but after driving a very low center of gravity sports-type car for a few months while I loaned my truck to my brother, it is noticeable but probably reasonably close to the way it was from the factory. Either way, sometime down the road I hope I can improve/upgrade that part of the handling.

I ended up postponing the timing belt replacement because I did find the documentation where it was replaced and it is not overdue, just due in the next month or 2. And I also decided to go ahead and replace the radiator when I do the timing belt even though mine was replaced a few years ago and appears to be in good shape. No point in chancing that over the next 80,000 miles and 4-6 years since they are only around 105-135 if I am not mistaken.

 

Bolded part, I had same experience and just told @Averyklinnnn the same, although at just shy of 700k miles, I think he actually may need a new pan gasket. And in that thread, half-moon plugs came up, they go here and basically, when you do your valve covers, you're supposed to pop the plugs out, clean them or all sealant, then re-seal (FIPG) then into place as part of the work. It's one of two places you need to use FIPG when doing the valve covers, the other spot is the two right-angle corners where the valve cover meets the head and cam tower on each side.

Shop towel to wipe up the grime. You're not going to get the oil saturation out of the metal. You'll know there's a new leak if you begin to see grime again in that spot. With time and age, and potentially heat, you may eventually see the soaked-in oil fade or dissipate, but ...

For any rubber parts, I'd go OEM. Only because you'll get the same longevity. For that ... you can do it without alignment after pretty easily, assuming you're either (A) using a 100% iidentical tie rod end, (B) re-using the existing tie rod ends, or (C) a combo of both. What you'll do is, get a good hi-vis paint marker (I personally use Testors yellow). Crack loose the locking nut on the TRE and roll it back several threads. Paint the seam and 1st few exposed threads where the TRE is resting. Now there's no question about where the TRE was installed; when done with whatever work you're doing, simply spin the TRE back on so the yellow marks line up, or if replacing with an identical part, run the TRE right up to the yellow paint line. Then lock it back down again.

For the bellows you could probably/potentially find a way to finagle the boot up over the spindle end and slide it on, but ... I think it's better form to remove the TRE after marking. You'll need to pick up replacement Oetiker clamps to re-clamp the new bellows. That means adding a tool, I recommend Lisle's tool #30800, and hit YouTube if you need instructions on how to use it. All Oetiker clamps are marked with their diameter on the body of the clamp in metric/millimeters format, like these which are 78.4mm and 38.1mm clamps, respectively. You don't need to necessarily buy OEM clamps to replace, just make sure they're the same size.

I didn't see anything else jumping out at me, but that's why it's helpful to have more eyes than mine looking over your pics, I hope others are looking.

On the swabar bushings, if you're talking about the two half-circle shaped bushings holding the swaybar to the frame, those do virtually nothing at all and have very little pressure on them, so I doubt you'll need to replace. If you need to reduce sway, there's a no-drill way to do that adding a rear swaybar, but it comes with a $500 price tag.

Smart move ...

 

I am ordering the bellows since mine did have a couple of holes. Not sure about the CV axle boots.

 

I will be replacing the Bellows in the coming week. I just watched a video from TRQ on replacing them I remembered it being straightforward, but just wanted to be sure. However, they just simply replaced the rubber boot. I thought I recalled seeing in another video or reading in this forum where they added grease.

Is that if you're doing more than just replacing the bellows?

@shifty` or anyone else?

I also ordered the Suspension Maxx extended swaybar links this morning. The more I read on that I'm satisfied that is best over the stock swaybar links I recently installed

 

Then I guess the answer is no grease

 

Sorry haven't been able to post much this week. I'll need to get to this later.

 

thanks hope all is well

like I said, I watched a video and TRQ seems to be legit and thorough. it made no mention of it whatsoever. I just seem to recall some comments in the forum or in a video, but perhaps that was on replacing or something else altogether

all of the steering and suspension is totally new to me, so it's been a lot to digest and retain in just a few months

 

Are you thinking of @FirstGenVol who recently swapped his inner toe rods? There is some grease packing involved there. A lot of people may do inners at same time as bellows.

RE: Time away, all is fine. I’m just on a hardcore crunch at work. Basically shutting down our ATL presence at work, then rolling into laid-off status mid month. I won’t be around as frequently the next couple weeks, tons of difficult deadlines to hit between now and 3/15.

 

Yes, that was it!

I'll just do the Bellows, the second outer tre (replaced one when I did the LBJ's), and the sway bar links for now.

I'll research the other on down the road. there's no apparent problems at present. I'm always up for preventative maintenance but I've already got a lot to do to it over the next three weeks


OK. Good to hear it's just work. I just knew you were getting over some health issue about the time I joined the forum

 

Health stuff is dealt with. I have a follow-up scan to deal with, making sure no activity where they cut stuff out, but I think we’re past the worst of it. Work stuff is cool also. Gonna suck with doc/dentist/eyes because of insurance updates but que sera, I guess.

 

So what cam bolts should I go with if mine are frozen? Prob also should replace LCAs? Want to get ahead of this before I get my lift installed. Thanks!

 

OEM and antiseize

 

Wait - for a 1st gen Tundra, or the 2019 Tundra showing in your truck info? This is the 1st gen Tundra subforum, just wnat want to make sure we're giving you valid info.

 

Thank. Appreciate it. Anyone have part numbers? 19’ Tundra

 

Ah damn. Didn’t realize this was 1st gen. My bad. Thank you for looking out.

 

No worries, and use the bullets at the top of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113819/

They'll help you get the part numbers you need.