2006 Tundra v6 4L no crank no noise no start

HI shifty and others
Thank you for all the help. sfifty going back to what you said earlier, when you said
A bad fuel pump wouldn't cause a no crank i agree with you. After thinking about it, the problem seems electrical related or some type of switch,sensor. Just really funky timing that it all happened when I ran out of gas in my driveway taking my daughter to school. My truck is a a slant.,5 to 10%, I guess.
It seems like some sort of interlock ir safety feature. Super frustrated at this point.,especially after a long day of fixing and calibrating my printing laser.
Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

 

Totally get it. That is weird how it all lines up, with the failure. If you had an aftermarket pump in there (like you replaced it before, I could see it dying. Aftermarket parts have a 2-5 year lifespan these days, it’s utter shit.

The ECU is a common thread. I’m at a loss where to check next, though. My brain is fried to to work, and I haven’t had any free time to dig on stuff like this, like I normally would.

 

I get it also, thx for all your help already.
Here is weird thing happening is that the battery even though was test good by autozone, still never charges . I would say that was the problem, except for the jumpering of the starter relay, which ruled out the starter, but seems also weird, and had a big truck jumping and still got zip.All so coincidental timing. Thx again

 

Does anyone know how to check the neutral safety switch, besides looking at the backup lights on the tailgate? I just assumed it's working cause I saw the lights.
Also read about some weird tundra function called "fuel pump shutoff system", this seems like exactly what happened. Anyone know about this? Seems stuck in this mode

 

Checked the neutral safety switch by putting the truck in neutral and trying to start(didn't start)- will try to check the pin in the starter relay to see if I can get a reading there.

All my true idiot moment might come, and hopefully it will be finding out either the AM-1 (40amp) OR ST-1 (30 amp) fuse, that I didn't check (like a fool) is the issue.
I wasn't sure that they pulled out. Pick enclosed of fuse/relay box, I had only pulled some of the relays(tested) which seemed pertinent, checked all the small blade fuses,
but didn't check those bigger fuses. Hopefully my stupidity has an end. (pic enclosed)
Also big grey relay now seem to be making 1 check when turning the key, think its the one on the left
I need to end this electrical madness!!

 

Pull one of the relays and test for click. If that doesn't click, you know the one you pulled is your clicker.

Relays for starter and fuel pump can be jumped with some wire to test for crank and fuel.

 

Tested for crank thru starter. Yes got crank.
Tested all the rest of big fuses, Am-1, St-1. Fuses test good.It just seems like some type of sensor or interlock is preventing the fuel pump from returning back on.
Remember this all started when I ran out of gas in my driveway. It is a little sloped and the trucks rear end is lower than the front

Totally stumped and driving me crazy.

 

The Toyota troubleshooting guide notes that the only three components to be troubleshot for a no crank situation (if there are no stored codes), are the Starter relay, neutral safety switch, and the starter itself.

 

I would agree, but the truck crank when ju.pering the starter relay, just isn't getting gas flow. Hoping slanted parking is tge ussue with the gas flow. Trying to move it, to run that out too.
I would say fuel pump,b I t if that were issue then it still would crank.
Thx to all

 

Ok, just want to clear up some stuff here just so everyone is on the same page. So right now if you go turn the key you get no crank or anything, and the only way you can get it to crank is by jumping the starter relay right? If you turn the key to "on" does your dash light up or is everything blank?

 

Well, I'd check the starter relay and see if it is seeing the 12v positive signal when you turn the key to the "start" position. If you're not getting 12v pos, something is stopping the ECU from starting the truck.

 

Yes on the no crank no noise unless jumoering at start relay. Yes I also do seem to have normal dash lights, although all the turning of the key has been draining the battery. I did have a big truck with jumper cables on it at one point, same result.
To check to see if starter relay is getting 12v when turning the key, I'm figuring this would have to be at the starter relay port with the relay out. I have bench tested the relay, but maybe it's still bad. When measuring power side ii get 114ohms. Does that sound right, or can they measure ok but still be out of range to work? Thanx for any help, beyond frustrated!

 

1. REMOVE STARTER RELAY ASSEMBLY

(a) Remove the relay box cover and starter relay.

2. INSPECT STARTER RELAY CONTINUITY

(a) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.


If there is no continuity, replace the relay.

(b) Check that there is no continuity between terminals 3 and 5.

If there is continuity, replace the relay.

3. INSPECT STARTER RELAY OPERATION

(a) Apply battery positive voltage across terminals 1 and 2.

(b) Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 5.

If there is no continuity, replace the relay.

 

I have tested it doing the same procedure already, but because I am actually grasping at straws, I am wondering even it it tests good for continuity form 1 to 2
and no between 3 to 5 and when power is added continuity form 3 to 5, it still could something wrong internally that might be preventing it from working, like not being about to
push the right amperage, or even though it clicks and has continuity with power the internal switch is broke or weak? Dont really know. My friend says I am crazy, but I just want to get the truck going and hoping it will be some ah-ha moment with some weird quirky fix. thank you all for listening and whatever help you can offer

 

Still cant get the truck to start. watch a 3 minute video on youtube which basically was the same exact truck and the same symptoms my truck is having. The guy replaced the stater, which he said was aftermarket and 1 year old. i put in a starter about 1.5 years ago also, also aftermarket. I DID jumper the inside where the starter reply goes and got cranking , so I had eliminated the starter, but maybe I am mistaken. Anyone else think it could be the starter or does the jumpering definitely rule out the starter. at this point I would basically try anything.please help

 

Sounds like your starter relay isn’t getting the 12 volt trigger signal.

 

ECU not grounding relay. But doesn't explain the pump. Maybe ECU is bunkum.

 

Yes I agree it seems like the starter I sent 12v trigger. Raining now, but when it stops I will purchase the probe on the relay contacts.
About the ecu, is there a way to test it? Got today off ,finally, going to mess with it.. going to like this video I saw on you tube. My truck is pretty much doing exactly what the truck in the video shows.
Thank for helping

 

https://youtu.be/z8UOdYHO7eQ?si=kZxAyoIV9VYBs6lQ

This is the video, I also replaced my starter about 1.5 yes ago, with one I got from napa.had ruled it out because it jumpered, but I'm am a photo/laser mechanic not a auto mechanic. Just seems so much like my problems though

 

Testing ECU. Not sure. I'd need to check FSM. No time to check. I've been up to ears in work and family the last week.

 

Sorry copied wrong video. Will post in a min.getting coffee

 

https://youtu.be/7QLB4V8HvUc?si=WB6Il-YrFEc-1_E7

Hope this is it

 

Anyone look at the short video. These are almost the exact symptoms I am getting. He changed the starter

 

Trying any stupid shit things that I might have missed at this point. Kind of wet here today. Rain can just go away already. all my rain barrels are already full.
I just seems like some sort of starter issue. I pulled the small wire with the plug, put a little jumper wire to my probe expecting to get 12v when i turned the key by got on tiny amounts of power, not the 12v expected.
I had been looking at some of the wires for rodent chewing like someone suggested, and actually noticed that same wire king of twisted in with the other starter wires. maybe it corroded or broke inside.
I tried test the wire from the plug back up to the battery bu either got ul or 6-15ohms, when i thought if it had worked it would have measured 00-.3
WEEKEND ALMOST OVER - WORK WEEK SHOULD BE 2 DAYS AND WEEKEND 5

 

does anyone know if when the little plug (solenoid plug with the black wire and white strip) is unplugged, and i put my probe to the connector, if it will go to 12v when the key is turned. Seems like shifty is totally right, no power thru that wire, producing no start. any ideas?

 

I apologize to all forum members that have given me tips on the truck, that I didnt follow. Sorry had blinders on, crazed from the non-starting. But I did go back and scour the responses that many have given my just for some more clues or maybe something I had missed. Also picking through fsm for troubleshooting and clues.
I did run the jumper test at the starter relay and got crank. 12v with key in acc position, cranks when jumpered. also getting same voltage at battery when measuring the standing power in the starter relay connection without the key even in
12.6v from battery(+) to starter
-when key is turned to on, get zero volts out of the starter cell cable, (normally plugged to the solenoid) which normally I think should be 12 to kick over the solenoid, but only know for sure this would work on a old car. Any feedback?
- jumpered in fuel pump relay and got no noise- this i had missed this test before. also measured no voltage in the fuel pump relay circuit. red probe to 12v source-black to ground , getting zero. this seems like the problem . Not sure when that turns on but seems like there should be 12 v inside the relay connection port. Is there some sequence that needs to happen before the fuel pump relay gets charged.
Please help me. at the end on my rope and Im a printer/photo equipmant repairman and simple is easy on the truck but this sucks, electrical issues never fun.
THANK YOU ALL, NEVER WOULD HAVE GOT THIS FAR ALONE

 

Hang in there! The fuel pump is only energized during crank and if the engine is running. It is not energized just because the key is turned to on.

 

1. just read a long thread very similar to my symptoms where the fuel pump relay was the culprit.
will replace cause its cheap and easy- worth a try- also same for starter relay-just to rule out,even though tested ok
2. my other friend, who is actually a mechanic, not like me, insists that he still believes the aftermarket(napa) starter is the problem, even though it jumpered.

 

I looked in the fsm, they say the proper way to test the fuel pump is to jumper it at the relay port and listening for the pump buzzing. I tried that , and got no buzzing. Our
hunch now it that it is the fuel pump burned out. Remember this whole think started when we ran out of gas. Probably burned the pump out.
-Only other options seems to be some sort of ecu problem, although got 12v standing on most relays and power inside the cab. Just no pumping.
-Found online a video on how to reset the factory reset the ecu and immobilizer. Seems easy, will try that too. Paper clip in ports 4 and 13 on ecu reader connector.
Anyone agree or discourage the ecu reset for any reason?

 

I thought you said earlier you had fuel pressure?

Have you ever replaced the fuel pump before?