What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Been there. Dig through various bits drawers in garage and find a little piece of metal like a picture hanger strip or corner bracket. Get them needle nose and cutters out and bend new clip. Test fit, adjust, discard, repeat as necessary. Key is for it to put outward pressure on knob and then can bend gap ends inward to grab the stem.

But once found these would prolly do this next time. Way easier.

 

Truck came with both. Garage door holder still in little cardboard box in garage.

 

I have an 06 double cab and I went with these bolts when I did mine they are way cheaper. I paid $1.27. They should work on your 03 AC and save you $20

part number 90080-10330

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=916948

Thanks. Are those the valve cover bolts? Just planning to swap the rubberized bolt washers. My bolts have all been loose and snugged up fine recently (but cover still leaks) so don't think any will snap when removing.

 

If you find the small metal clip, put a dot of super glue on there so it'll stay on the knob and let it dry before you pop the knob back on the dash. I've had to do that before.

 

That’s the bolt with the washer combo

 

LOL

 

Who remembers this one

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3utvCHuP2u/?igsh=MWJ5Zm9wY3cxMHpuNA==

 

First time seeing that...
Thanks for starting my day with that hahahaa.
Morning all

 

I weld about as good as I play basketball. I don't play basketball or own a basketball.

Time for new spark plug tube seals and a valve cover gasket!

They wanted me to drop it off for a few hours but i had shit to do. The other placed had flowmasters, but i dont want a flowmaster.

 

Remember fellas, don't stick your dick in crazy!

 

if the plugs are clean after a run to town & an oil change, i'll put it on the list. Gonna jack it up & pull the wheels to check the suspension & brakes, too.

no tacos


No panic

 

Why you no likey the Flowmaster? I thought it made my truck sound great.
When I first got the DD exhaust, I really missed the Flowmaster and thought I had made a mistake.

 

No seatbelts

 

No fucks

 

Installed my steering rack, and pressed out the hubs, wheel bearings, and upper ball joints. Bearings came apart when pressing the hubs out but thankfully the inner bearing races didn't stick to the hubs.

My steering knuckles are rusty and have some broken bolts on them so I plan on removing the rust, painting, and trying to get these bolts out.

 

I infact did not say that, however it is good to know. I ws just learning engine codes is all lol.

 

5VZ-FE: The bullet proof V6 of the gods. Hand crafted with the Uchide no kozuchi, a legendary Japanese "magic hammer" which can "tap out" anything wished for, and is wielded by Daikoku-ten in popular belief.

 

I have my old OEM spares. I sent a metal clip to at least one member. But that said, the square black plastic part likes to crack which is how the metal clip slides out. Replace the knob. Know the cheapies on scAmazon tend to allow light to bleed out around the edges of the knob. Cheap quality.

I tried tons of different stuff, shrink wrap, a couple types of glue, I couldn't get anything that would hold, and not allow the knob to slip. Once the plastic cracks, it seemed like a waste of time to try repairs.

"LC" kit?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#post-2712883

All parts and process are there. I re-used my half moons, saved me $30. I replaced my hardware with the washer+bolt (p/n 9008010330) which are about a buck a piece at $18 total, saved me another $30-40. I'm VVTi so cam seals aren't an option for me to do easily.

But hey, if you want to go Felpro, go for it. I trust their stuff. I figure I want to do this once to hold me over the next 10-15 years, so if I'm spendng $30-40 more to go OEM and get OEM longevity, I'm going to do exactly that.

 

Whoops, shoulda specified double wall adhesive heat shrink. It's lined with hot glue.

 

Anyone who’s done a valve cover job know if the PCV valve grommet comes through to the other side visibly? I’m wondering if I’m at risk for dropping a piece of gasket inside (where I can’t fish it out) in case it tears trying to pry it out.

No luck so far with the engine cold. Will try again after it’s been running hot.

 

Fixed the fog lights (fuse), reverse lights (switch on trans), coolant leak (tightened clamps), mismatched lug nuts, license plate lights (bulbs), & the plugs are still good & the stumble is still gone. Oddly, no money light & the o2 sensor was loose. Put some led headlights in it, but waiting for dark to aim em.

 

There is a baffle under the grommet but pieces can still migrate through the spaces at the ends of the baffle. WhenI did mine the grommet broke but I was able to grab it with a needle nose.

 

Decided I've procrastinated long enough and I'm going to tackle the inner tie rods. Any last minute tips I should know? My understanding is that the new inner has a washer that has to be bent/staked as a fail safe?




I have new OEM bellows going over Moog inners.

Hoping you guys aren't lying about Moog inners being fine.

 

Good to know. Thank you!

 

I seem to recall there being a tab on a washer you have to bend 90 degrees? Been a while. Should be obvious when you look at it.

 

Well I was planning to reuse these OEM outers. They have around 33k miles on them. What does Tundra Gang say? I mangled the tip and it's leaking.