1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Oh, and the middle part# is the dust seal to replace the mangled one on the rebuilt CV Toyota Parts Overstock sent me. $20 for a fully reassembled reman CV axle works for me, even if it came from the rust belt.

The top two parts are my brake booster check valve and its respective grommet, I've got an apparent booster leak that has my pedal firm after the truck sits a day or two and I'm looking to dig thru that. It's been bugging the shit outta me. I started noticing it after I attempted to lift the truck the first time, but couldn't get the passenger UBJ to pop, and it was weird b/c I never touched the brakes.

 

After re-reading the Spiker tests here I think the black (00-03(04) "Black" bolt for use with protector only 9011910933 Torqued to 37ft-lbs) are what you want or the ARP 663-1004. Truthfully, I used @NickB_01TRD 's part's list to grab the smaller LBJ part numbers and he originally bought the green 90080-10066 on his truck. Sorry for any confusion, I'm more familiar with the bigger ball joints. Either way, I would recommend giving this thread a read. https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/


Here's some information from the recall letter for the smaller lower ball joints, they don't give a "parts list" for the recall kit like they do for the bigger ball joints:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2005/RCRIT-05V225-9101.PDF
http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_Campaigns/50Jdeal.pdf


Per @BubbaW 's research, the early recall kit may not come with castle nuts and cotter pins.






Here's some information from the recall letter for the bigger lower ball joints: http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_Campaigns/70b.pdf

They give parts for the ball joints, but this kit seems to be no longer available mostly. Additionally, I can't find these LBJ parts numbers separately, and the current LBJ numbers don't say whether they're a supercession of them. I'm not gonna dig any further right now.

 

I love you, Dude. Few of us would have immediately made that connection.

 

Hey thanks for your thorough response.

Yes, I'm familiar with the spiker test. Great read. That helped me a while back figure out before installing re-sprung struts and CVs that the black bolts had a different spec that most aren't aware of. Now learned about the two types of LBJs for the bestgen. Looks like the cheapest way to get these for the next few days (<2/26) is to order them separately instead of together in the kit that is usually cheaper as haven't found a dealer offering the kit with the added 25%.

Interestingly, was at the dealer today who responded that the LBJs are not a wear item to be replaced at any particular interval if they were already replaced under the recall ... and they know my truck is over 242,000 miles on LBJs replaced under recall at about 36,000 miles 19 years ago.

 

A ball joint is metal on metal bushing style fitted joint with grease as lubrication to slow and decrease wear. They wear as the truck cycles up and down through suspension travel and they wear as the truck turns left or right. As long as your not doing that, yours should never wear out. Now, if you so decide to do the aforementioned activities and turn your truck or drive over bumps, then yours will wear. Due to the hanging design of these, failure can range from alarming and inconvenient to dramatic and catastrophic. Worth at least greasing them and checking for play during tire rotations. Swapping them every 100k is cheap insurance.

 

Right. Was surprised by the response. LBJs are doing great with no play but with the sale seems a good time to pick em up and swap at the same time with the new UBJs already have in hand because boots need replaced (but have no play). With OEM LBJs do you grease with a needle then?

 

I check my OEM for play regularly, but have never greased them to be honest. Not on my recall replacements from 07-2020ish, or my current ones. Maybe if it looked like they were puking the grease out I would be more concerned. If I was going to try to grease them a needle would be my first step though.

I'm going to order LBJs on this sale and just replace them when I throw in my new front differential, think I'm at about 45k miles of heavier duty service on them.

 

https://youtu.be/PhcWOA9UjVQ?si=B7ZfJLjUqCfXyZOT

 

https://youtu.be/Dk8wjNW-iOY?si=aw9nSkg9PzbChSDN

 

Ok. So looks like I should add the right rear wheel bearing parts to the growing 25% sale list. Traced from front to rear with mechanic ears from wheel bearings, diff, and drivelines, to find the slightly noticeable wah wah not from the front LH diff needle bearing as suspected, but when running in the air to a little play and noise at the right rear wheel (no stethoscope necessary).

Two questions:

1. Looks like RA has only Centric bearings for the rear axle. Is bearing from Toy go to here or do you all have it figured out to use Koyo, Dana/Spicer instead - and where do you source these if not from Toyota or RA? I'm partial to the OEM seals however, and with the 25% sale the Toy bearing may be just as inexpensive as aftermarket.

2. Do you always recommend doing both sides, or just do the side with the play/noise? Don't know if it is lazy (or realistic about my time) but seems smart/adequate to just do what's necessary and tackle the RH side with the play/noise, and wait until might need to do the other side later.

TIA

 

If it was me, I would do the affected side and leave the other non-worn out, non-leaking side alone. These rear bearings are troublesome due to the finicky pressing procedure and spacing requirements to prevent leaking.

 

So are the rear bearings part of the axle or something? I did not see rear bearings listed on the parts website

 

They are pressed onto the axle half-shafts along with the tone ring for the wheel speed sensor / abs. Many a good man has lost this fight. If you're off by even a little, the seal won't make contact well enough to keep the gear oil from filling your rear drum.

 

True that. Read all about it (and watched some how-to). Suppose I'll ask local trusted shop for price to pull/press the bearing compared to adding a press to my shop. But like these opportunities to collect tools that can use in the future, and this looks like only a 2/5 banana job. So part recommendations for the bearings? And do you reuse the bearing seal collar?

 

Be sure whoever you get to press it is intimately familiar with these. Otherwise they will not understand the importance, or the spec. And you will be left with leaky seals, or tone rings that don't line up.

 

Think this is the bearing but thinking Centric from RA not the part to use here so looking for Toy, Koyo, or Dana/Spicer if someone has the usual source.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v8,1389001,drivetrain,axle+shaft+bearing,1664

How-to is in various videos like these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY8pljevOY4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-c2x3F8DU4

 

Thanks. Read all this on spacing.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-axle-bearing-replacement.88314/

 

I would source the Koyo for sure, or order straight from the dealer. Too much trouble to scrimp on these.

 

You reuse everything but the bearing and seals. I would just order thru the dealer for the bearing, two seals and one o ring

 

So would this same logic apply to the front bearings?

 

I only ordered new bearings and seals for the front for mine. And yes, they are still pending install.....

 

Thanks, that's what I needed to know

 

So apparently this site finds the lowest price for parts…..
https://cruisin4parts.com/part/4411060212

 

Sounds like you'll still have to do some homework to compare shipping and tax between sellers. Also it doesn't take into consideration promotions like the 25% off Serra Toyota is offering.






This is the price with the current promotion once you add it to your cart and go to checkout.

 

This is what I used, even though it's not the recommended bearings.



In that thread you were reading, I posted about my adventures with the rear bearings. I'd read through that too as a what not to do guide and what happens when you take it to the wrong shop.

 

Well, look at what showed up to my house today.



Might be time for Panhandlemonium part duex.

 

Wait, you got beer delivered to the house?

 

"Free 30 pack of low carb piss water with $500 purchase."

 

Wait - you don’t have to pull lifters to change cam? What head bolts did you use?

 

Saw these today. Holllllly Shiiiiiiiiiiit! Nice trucks, but damn. That's a lot of dough.
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ctd/d/phoenix-2003-toyota-tundra-4x4-owner/7716242018.html
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ctd/d/phoenix-2003-toyota-tundra-4x4-v8-owner/7716240099.html
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ctd/d/phoenix-2000-toyota-tundra-4x4-86k-new/7716238627.html