Tire/wheel fitting - 32x12 on a DC 2WD with least neg offset and lift

I got it by jacking at the crossmember. I had the feeling it was trying to lift the whole front end but it wasn't.

I'm just very uncomfortable with jackstands because of people I know that have had fatal accidents. I'll just keep being extra safe and try to get over it

 

Jackstands should always be supported by a jack. Harbor freights Daytona line is pretty good. I use a 3 ton jack with the pro eagle extensions. Don’t be scared of jack stands. Make sure they have good contact on the frame and they don’t have the possibility of sliding. Use common sense and take your time. Drop the truck on the stands and raise the jack up to keep pressure on the truck, but not enough to lift it off the stands.

 

The Project Farm guy did a great review of jack stands on YouTube if you want to buy the safest.

 

Thanks guys. Already had jackstands. I went way overboard with 6 ton jackstands and also have the 2 1/4 ton that came with my hydraulic trolley jack. I know the 6 ton js's were more than I needed but I just liked that the base was wider and extra stable

I had a neighborhood friend that lost his dad when we were about 7 many many years ago due to a Jack or Jack Stands falling over. I'm getting over my fear and hopefully that just makes me be extra cautious and safe and not take it for granted

my issue was really getting it jacked up high enough, but I just had to move to the crossmember. With my 2-1/4t jack i still had to add height with a 4x4. And to put the new tires and wheels on I had to also jack it up slightly at the lower control alarm. I was replacing original factory 265/65,17's and I believe that comes in at 30.6 inches tall and the new ones are 32.01 inches tall

 

If you're weary of using a jack and jackstands and such you may as well just spend the coin on a nice Daytona jack and be done with it. I use mine all the time. It is $100 more than it used to be but it's a good long term thing to have

 

is there a way to test for rub/scrub by lifting from under the lower control arm in order to compress the shock/coil?

I know I can lift up under the LCA but I don't believe I can turn the wheel without hitting the Jack

I guess the only thing I could do is turn it to full lock and then jack it up then let it down, then repeat for full lock in the other direction l, and finally repeat for straight ahead

I am testing the tire & wheel combo of 305/50 on 20x9's at -5 offset which I believe is about 4.8 backspacing

so far everything seems to clear when the tire is not touching the ground fully jacked up, and also when the truck is not jacked and just flat on the ground. I did have to remove the mudflap.

on the outside it appears that when compressed, I would have to modify the pinch weld and possibly trim the piece between the pinch weld and the bottom exterior of the fender well. hope that makes sense. But that is just based on the eyeball test. however, it looks very doable.

It looks like even while compressed I believe there is plenty of clearance for no frame or bumper rub on the front on the driver side full lock right But at full lock left, it looks like it will rub the frame

it also appears there is plenty of room after pinch weld mod for it to clear on the outer side with up to perhaps a -12, offset wheel

it would be very helpful to be able to test this tire and wheel I have while it is compressed

unfortunately I can't drive it or then I can't return what I have according to their return policy and in talking to their sales person.






if this type of information is available in another thread, please feel free to point me in that direction. I haven't been able to find it so far but I will also keep searching

 

I guess I didn't think that through ha ha

I was thinking for sure the weight of the engine and the front end would compress the side where you are jacking up from below the LCA. But it had the opposite effect - there was More space on the side where I jacked under the lower control arm. Makes sense now that I think about it

so I'm guessing the closest you can come is to jack up the opposite side that you are testing. it won't get full compression, but it will at least compress it a few inches. Won't be able to spin the wheel, but you can at least do a visual inspection to check for touching

Seems like I need to find somewhere I can take a class on suspension. Guess I'm just talking to myself today

 

Finally got some pics for you @KTM_AJ421

Pictures are the stock wheels and tire's after the Bilstein 5100's with 2883 springs on lowest setting which gave me about an inch of lift. I wish I would've measured before I installed to get a more exact number. I tried to measure and I'm not sure how accurate I am, but it appears to be between 21 & 21-3/4" between center of hub and fender. EDIT: appears to be 20 3/4". Not sure how I was off that far

265/65/17's, 7-1/2 wide, +18 offset

 

thanks man that’s awesome! How’s the ride?

 

I absolutely love it. I know a lot of people say the more expensive shocks are hands-down better, but I'm extremely pleased with mine

I went back and edited the post I made with the pictures for you. It appears I have just slightly over 20 3/4 inch between the center of the hub and the fender well instead of over 21 inches like I first thought


I really wish I would've measured that before installing the Bilsteins to get an exact measurement on the lift I accomplished

 

pretty spot on with 20” being the norm. Mine is saggy shit and I sit at 19.5”

 

That looks perfect thank you for the pictures and thoughts on ride quality I can’t wait to get mine

 

UPDATE:
305's, 32" tall do fit with the right offset. 20x9, -12 offset which is 4.5 backspacing and some small change (@shifty` was spot on once again there).

I did have to take off the mudflap and I still need to trim the pinch weld, although it will turn it just slightly scrubs. no clearance issues on the inside, frame, bumper and UCA's. no other rubbing or scrubbing at full droop and as far as I could compress them thus far.

I have the bilstein 5100's set at the lowest perch giving me about 1" lift at present. Most likely going to raise it up another inch or .9 inches to the next perch to be on the safe side. Still have more test driving once I get pinch weld done and all four tires and wheels on

my first choice was those black Toyota Trd 18" wheels vaguely similar to these with 60 or 65 series tires. But the offset, width combo with what was available for 18 inch wheels just would not let me fit 305s on there without lifting the truck higher than I liked

It'll look a lot better to me once I black out the chrome on the mirrors (Bulldog adhesion promotor and SEM Trim Black) and take off those chrome running boards






In the process of blacking out the chrome strip across the front bumper

 

I’d take the old bumper trim piece and coat/paint/skin it black and reinstall. Would look great.

Your measures likely weren’t off, the front suspension just settled in. You’ll probably get ~ 3/4” lift at the next circlip on those 2883s. If you need a little extra out back, this is one of the rare times when I’d tell someone to throw a 0.5” block out back.

 

That's exactly what I'm doing to that chrome strip with the bulldog adhesion promoter. And even though I knew how to take those clips off, I finally got fed up and just popped them and ordered new ones because they were cheap Old ones were brittle anyway.

When you say outback, are you talking about in the rear? I did put a small block in the back when I did the bilsteins because I was waiting to see how much lift I ultimately needed in the front before I went to adding a leaf or changing them all together. I definitely will need no more than 1 to 1-1/2" in the rear from factory height now that I've got my tires and wheels and have tested some. I believe the factory rake is 2 1/2 inches so I'm trying to keep it no less than around 2 inches.

I go on an 8 hour / 16 hour round trip with a couple of friends 2 to 3 times a year. We're usually pretty well loaded down and I don't want the rear squatting at all




I went out and drove it a good bit last night, and drove onto some awkward, uneven ground, trying to get as much compression as I could. even with only the mudflaps off and no pinch weld mods I had to roll the windows down to even hear I was very slightly scrubbing. And the scrubbing is only where the pinch weld is located

I'm almost tempted to drive it longer before I decide about any more lifting. I can say this with just regular driving around town, in and out of driveways, speed bumps, jumping a curb at different steering angles it's almost like it doesn't need another inch of lift. I'm still leery of the lips of the fender well though under the most extreme compression

once I'm satisfied with all of that I'll get the mudflaps back on. Reading through your mudflap modification thread, but having a hard time visualizing the close-up of the pictures without my mudflap in front of me

 

Yep, when I say outback I mean rear. I want to say OEM rake for me was around around 1.5”, but I’d need to dig in the “measure up” thread to verify and I’m on mobile so not ideal. I look forward to seeing where you land!

 

Were those the equivalent of your original factory mudflaps that you modified?

I'll probably try a combination of cutting and heat gun reshaping to mine per your thread once I'm settled in with the front suspension.

That was a great idea about the flathead allen screws from @Kimosabe

my paint guy also recommended someone that does that new generation of protective film. I want to do that to the front of my hood once the new paint is fully cured Will also remove the old factory film that is just in front of the rear tires and replace that with the new stuff And where ever else it is slinging mud and road sludge from the new tire wheel set up

 

Yup, OEM flaps were trimmed in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-mud-flap-splash-guard-mods-for-larger-tires-lift.133574/

If you don't want squat, ever, especially under load, you can always do what we did for Dad's 2018 Tundra, Firestone helper bags out back. Just make sure you don't make the classic dummy mistake of plumbing both bags together to one fill port, use separate lines so you don't have air sloshing between bags, defeating the purpose. For the 1st gens, you don't need to unbolt anything to install. It's actually quite easy.

A lot of people here are doing Firestone bags with Daystar cradles, I think I'll probably go this route on my own truck. This is what the setup looks like, ballpark: https://www.tundras.com/threads/doublecab-prelander.65201/page-2#post-2222302

I remember Dad's Firestone kit came with hardware to allow teeing the bags together, but I don't think it's Firestone's intent and would never recommend it. We used the supplied bracket to route everything to the bumper, with two ports, because that put it closest to the camper hookups, he's usually airing up after popping the hitch on.

​

 

I will definitely keep that in mind if I ever start towing a travel trailer. That would be perfect

 

Did you get your suspension from 1st gen off-road? I cannot wait to order. I went and picked up my rims the other day and momma wasn’t happy when she found out that I also need tires for them since they are 17’s lol. Going to order new OEM ball joints this week so I can do the suspension and bjs at the same time. This truck is getting expensive! Here’s the rims I picked up off marketplace

 

Yes. Josh at first GEN is a great guy and a great resource. He's answered several questions for me since I did my suspension

I got my shocks and coils from him and also the OEM LBJ's and did all of that at once

I can't speak highly enough of him or give him a strong enough recommendation. Super knowledgeable and helpful

what tires are you going with? I love the Toyo AT3's so far. For better or worse I no longer have to get approval from a Mama. Probably a good thing cause I am putting a lot of new toys/upgrades on my truck

nice wheels by the way. I was torn on the black, although I always liked them Just wasn't sure how well they would show up. But since I'm debadging and dechroming/blacking out, that was my best choice

what color is your DC? Post pics when you're done

 

I may just do all of the parts from 1st gen. Had to explain to the wife that I can’t put the wheels on without tires and can’t put the tires on without suspension lol. I’m a fan of falken wild peaks but the at4s aren’t really out yet so I’m undecided on tires.

truck is green she looks good from far but far from good but has a spotless frame and 160k on her and runs like a dream so I love it. I would have preferred silver wheels but these popped up locally and for a good price so I had to grab them especially being new in box.

 

What size tires are you going with?

 

Thinking I just want a 1” lift with the 2883’s and then running 265/70’s I don’t want it too tall so I can still load my bike

 

You should have no problems. What is the offset of your wheels?

265/70s on 17 inch factory wheels are well documented in this forum to work without modifications. A friend of mine added those with no suspension mods and has had no rubbing or scrubbing in the three years since he bought those tires

so you should fit easily with a 1 inch lift. Again that depends on the offset for your new wheels, but his were factory which I believe is around +18 mm



you'll get almost an inch of lift from the 2883s in about a 1/2" more lift with those tires you mentioned so a total of about 1-1/2"

 

That’s perfect for what I’m looking for. The wheels are 17x8.5 with -10mm offset I believe so no issues with rubbing any uca or frame. I figured I could probably run those tires stock but I’m not sure how sagged out my stock springs are. I really want to put the wheels on so they may be going on sooner than later

 

That is, I believe, the same specs as @FirstGenVol's wheels. I believe he recently aligned out the little frame kiss he had going on while running 32.8". You may also need to pull your front flaps.

 

Even though his will be over a full inch (1.2") shorter at 31.61"?

 

I would expect some rub inside the fender liner with lots of compression just because it's only ~4.3" backspace, but I haven't seen anyone with that setup yet, so ... it's tough to say.

 

I went down the rabbit hole of reading up on the pinch weld mods.

I had read it made it much easier if you made a vertical cut In the pinch weld before hammering them down. Then in another thread had a bunch of people up in arms about the problems that would cause with rust

I ended up ordering another $80 worth of products to clean it and treat that to prevent rust, but still decided against the cutting

but after trying a little hammering
it seems quite stupid and was getting nowhere. I ended up bending the pinch weld over with an adjustable wrench and with some locking pliers relatively easy

I do realize I went the opposite way with the bend the most. That may be a mistake I don't know, but it made it much easier to just bend the pinch weld using leverage of a long adjustable wrench

these styles might make it easier for going in the opposite direction where there is something behind it


at any rate, no more light scrubbing. I may just get away with 1 inch lift with these 305s This time I did however notice some very light rubbing at full lock left on the driver side. I'll have to dig into that later

cosmetically it might look better with the extra 1 inch lift (2" total). I went from looking like I had tiny wheels after the lift to looking like they're too tall for that wheel well.

i'll get all four on there and give it some time in the road and see how it plays out

You can see the gap there now where the pinch weld was previously flush before I bent this piece upwards out of the way