"Black hole" zerk, wtf?

No but I’m gonna do it to cross it off the list of things to do. So that way I can have a decently organized calendar of when to do certain maintenance things on the truck.

my dad taught me to be a preventative maintenance guy. I didn’t listen when I was younger and it showed. My cars all fell apart and his truck (this truck) didn’t bat a fucking eye.

 

Ok thanks,

So no set number of pumps? just pump till see grease coming out. And to your knowledge, no chance of damaging seals by over pumping.

And on the slip yoke you back the zerk out as FirstGenVol describes?

Thanks!!!

 

It's never been more than 6-8 pumps before I start seeing grease come out. I can't speak definitively about "no risk of damage", I can't possibly know what parts someone has replaced in your truck. But I've never heard of someone blowing seals out of u-joints by greasing them.

Slip yoke, basically do what FGV has in his text. You'll be fine. There's not a lot to screw up here, I don't think. Maybe if you don't use the right grease it's not ideal, but even if you used the wrong grease, you could just flush it out again.

 

You have a 2wd, pretty sure you're going to find no grease zerks

 

Aarrreeee you surrreeeee ??????


(My truck btw there’s more but I’m at work and it looks weird climbing under my truck)

 

There's a reason I said pretty sure, yours may have been changed at some point but I was thinking it was all year, all cab type 2wd trucks didn't have grease zerks.

 

That's aftermarket.

 

Well fuck

 

I’ve done mine twice in the last 6 months or so. I feel like it was 30ish pumps, but i don’t remember exactly. For sure though you will see that slip yoke start to move with the pressure you are creating by pumping in the grease. I followed FGVs instructions to the T, including the jumping on the bumper bit and it worked great. I will say I did mine right when I got the truck and then again in another 2k miles or so. The thunk mostly went away after the first round, but the second round totally fixed it. Probably just a matter of the grease getting all worked into the nooks and crannies.

 

Thanks Shifty! I was thinking of you while I greased my shaft.

 

Sounds good. I actually don't have a thunk or any other noise. I just wanted to preventively grease it to avoid future issues. All went well! Thanks

 

Some of those turbo lsx houston guys fill their driveshaft. Something about traction & vibration. But i dunno, and i'm not launching off a transbrake & 4krpm stall.

 

but you should be

 

the bike will launch wherever i drop the clutch. No driveshaft.

 

I've never used a grease gun before, couple q's

1. Squeeze grease in, old grease squeezes out somewhere else?
2. If I squeeze too much is there a rubber boot that'll pop eventually?
3. Is Red N Tacky #2 ok to use?

$53 Lucas Red N Tacky Grease, 10 Pack | Water Resistant Lubricant for Cars, Trucks, Tractors, Industrial - Bulk Pack of Lucas Oil Grease, 14oz + Daley Mint Towel to Clean Hands

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPD4DRN4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Curious to see if mine has ever been greased

 

NO. Reread this thread, and pay attention to the 1st image from the FSM, Toyota tells you what to use right there. Needs to be NLGI 2 only, and it should have molybednium ("moly") added. This thread contains at least two suggestions readily available at your local auto parts store.

Be sure to learn:

• How to properly store grease. (upright, cap facing up)
• How to properly load/unload a grease gun to avoid air bubbles
• What to do if you get an air bubble, and grease stops coming out (typically after loading new tube)
• How to latch onto a zerk, what to expect

Always:

• Test 8-10 pumps into a rag before getting started with a new tube, and 1-2 before each session
• CLEAN YOUR ZERK with a shop cloth to remove all debris before latching on
• Stop and re-position/re-latch if grease comes out from around the sides of the tip, which is a sign grease isn't going in
• Wipe excess purge that comes out of your joint afterward to avoid excess sling.

This will depend on the type of joint.

For most steering joints, u-joints, the general rule of thumb (across most all mechanical stuff) is to pump grease into the joint until you see clean grease come out of the seals. The whole principle is to push the old, dirty grease out with the new grease you're pushing in.

With that said, if you're keeping up with maintenance and greasing at every oil change, for example, once you see grease come out (usually within 2-3 pumps), you may not need to pump more than 2-3 more times for clean grease to show its face. Obviously, the more you pump out, the more cleanup you need to do.

Most greasable joints have seals that should allow grease to pass.

The main exception will be the slip yoke, which is designation (B) on the diagram at the start of this thread. It has a special process for filling.

Essentially, with the slip yoke on these trucks vs. how a u-joint behaves (for example), you'll pump into port (B) in the diagram at the 1st reply of this thread, and after 4-5 pumps (possibly more if it was never greased), you may/should begin to see the yoke move position as grease fills the cavity of the shaft it's riding in/out of. The general process to get back to normal (baseline) on this joint:

• Pump 10-15 times, and/or until you see some movement in the yoke
• Get out from under the truck, stand on the bumper, bounce up and down several times to help move the yoke in/out
• Get back under the truck, pump half a dozen more times
• I'd go bounce up and down on the bumper again, then get a ratchet, pop off the zerk and let it shit out excess pressure/grease (you may just press the ball on the tip of the zerk and let it expel)
• Next time you grease, just pump half a dozen times, jump on the bumper, carry on

This is what I've been doing for the slip yoke ^^^ and I haven't had any clunking since the day I started this thread wondering why the hell that joint was basically eating grease. I don't think the PO of my truck ever greased the driveline. So much nasty shit came out of the u-joints I don't think they ever saw grease, and it took about 2+ dozen pumps before I saw any movement in the joint, hence me starting the thread with a "WTF?"

If you've never greased before, this video actually gives pretty good info, starting at 4m52s if it doesn't already jump there, just note you won't always feel a "click" when you lock on the fitting, it depends on your specific type of tip, and it's not always so easy to get a lock! With some guns, it helps to hold the tip physically onto the zerk :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EzhKPM7e4o#t=4m52s​

 

Also @woodamsc beginner info on grease guns, and 2nd video is how to prime your bun, and what to do if you get an air bubble.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8THwXEXApkE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZv0ZaYviM
​

 

Thanks again shifty! Missed the link on the prev. page