What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I gave myself a side stitch trying to hold the shock, spring compressors, and tighten the top shock nut.

 

Just use some blue loctite as lube

edit: I am not responsible for how you take/use that advice

 

Damn. That's...beautiful.

 

I took a shot of her on the way home from work the other night. She almost 20 years old and still looks great. 285/70R17 Terra Grappler G2s on Helo wheels. Not sure of the offset or backspacing on them wheels. They were on it when we bought her.

 

yes I was able to get the tie-rod ends and LBJs free with a small (4#) sledge. HOWEVER, it wasn't so simple. First, I attempted whackin em repeatedly about as hard as I felt necessary to get that pop, until that voice of reason said "they're not budging, get a puller". Grabbed a 2 arm puller and still couldn't get it (did get a good grab, then applied force until the hook ends of the puller flexed enough to let go, didn't have a pitman puller on hand). Then the anger came in, and I went back to the mini-sledge, and started whackin it proper. Took a good 30 raps or so, but I won.

Do not drill out and heliocoil your spindles for your LBJ bolts. Please.

and...... am I the only one runnin 35's in here? To everyone worried about tire rub; 2 words for you....long travel. If there are enough of us we can do a group buy for a discount. so.... who's in?

 

Yer welcum

 

I replaced my LCA bushings. Mighta fukt up. Not sure.
Most will recommend replacing the entire LCA with bushings installed because I heard they can be a bitch to swap the bushings. Can confirm the rumors are true, but it's still doable. I did this without a lift or a press, but imagine they would be super helpful to anyone with access to such luxuries.

This is a rough outline of the event

Watched a few vids and checked out what the FSM had to say about it.
Rented a BJ press kit from Vatozone
Put the truck on stands and pulled the LCAs after marking cambolts
pressed out the bushings, and pressed new ones in
reinstalled everything and torqued all but the cam bolts
put the truck on the ground and torqued the cam bolts
and finally, saw something I had overlooked; clocking the bushings. fuk.

Supposedly the bushings may fail from not being clocked correctly, completely understandable. After several hundred miles, I haven't experienced any problems... yet. Hopefully there were clocked somewhat close to where they should be, but I haven't checked their orientation at all. yet

couple things to note:
I have also had a front end knock, and this did not solve it. I have removed sway connection, LBJ's are solid, upper arms have poly bushings and uniballs, and no front shafts. Steering rack has all new poly bushings and TREs were recently replaced. ?

Whoever was saying they had some play in their LCA bushings, that is not normal. You should not be able to move your LCA by your own strength. If you can, that means the bushings are done. That's why I did this job was because mine started getting sloppy. How I actually noticed it, was from inconsistent numbers while trying to align it. You can't properly align a vehicle with any slop in the geometry of the steering

 

Well, shit. My next thought was that maybe it's somewhere between the diff-driveshaft-tcase connection...but if you're only 2wd...eh, I've got all the u-joints anyway. I'll just keep on keepin' on.

Thanks for reconfirming why I'll buy complete LCAs!

 

Easiest way? Pull the LBJ bolts. Lift the knuckl/caliper assembly (presumably with a jack on two lug-nutted studs) to get it off the LBJ. You have a few options. (A) Visually inspect the holes for cross-thread or re-cut thread. (B) Hand thread a fastener into each hole; if they'll go all the way to the head, make sure the head sits flush, else (C) confirm the bolt is perpendicular to the surface, if possible, or (D) Find a way shorter bolt with same thread pitch and thread it in to see if the head sits flush on the threads.

Hell yeah, this was just the weekend for balljoints, I guess?!

I needed to ensure TRE and old LBJ boots stayed intact, else I'd have gone that route. Honestly though, once the puller was on, it worked just as fast.

These two posts just made me remember: Someone mentioned on here at some point about one of the shafts smacking the transmission (or something) at one point. Was it after lifting? I tried to find the post a few minutes ago but came up empty. Surely someone remembers what I'm talking about, right? Where a person found, like, their driveshaft was smacking something towards the center of the truck?

 

So how about just adding shims and greasing them?

 

Was that the guy with a 4x4 that had the transmission cross member more commonly known in 2wd vehicles? Found that his cross member had fissures around the bolts connecting the mount to the cross member? Sounds familiar.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/clunking-noise-coming-from-front-passenger-side.43028/

^^This post describes what I've been chasing and when it happens: "Its just when you drive down a poorly paved road and there are pot holes or large cracks in the road and the faster you go, the more noticeable it is when you hit these imperfections in the road."

"It sounds like something in the suspension is hitting metal on metal almost... like maybe something is "loose". We have checked all bolts, nuts, etc to make sure everything is tight and even applied lock tight to everything over there. Noise still continues"

Maybe I need to revisit our suspension maxx links and redo the bushings? It is mostly a solid pc of metal, after all. But I feel like my noise never completely went away, even with brand new parts. I replaced the sway bar mount bushings too.

 

thanks for the link - I just ordered another set of the black bolts. I'm actually pretty lucky that one snapped installing it otherwise I wouldn't have asked and would have driven around on 8 compromised bolts.

 

he who shall not be named had a swaybar smacking a skidplate, but it might have been because of a bent skid plate.

 

Someday

 

I mean how much would we save??? The SoloMotorsports kit is $5320 w/ the King coilovers.

I’ve dabbled with the idea of getting a AC or taco and making it LT

 

I have considered a V8 4runner and going LT
Maybe someday

 

Got my Nilight lights wired up using the stock wiring. Just added the relay and fog switch in the dash. Works perfectly, thanks guys!

Ill try to get some pics soon

 

Okay so.. my front end knock is not the same. It never sounds off while driving straight through any type of terrain. It's always while turning at slow speeds and happens in reverse as well. so, mostly while navigating into a parking spot. What you are explaining, I'd consider more of a 'clack', like two metals clapping together, but not keeping tight against one another, unless I'm misreading it. Mine is more of a building pressure, then a 'pop' with something shifting but keeping the joining pressure, if that makes sense. Sounds like a BJ, but it can't be. Next thought was the Sus max extended links but it's still there after removing them. I have a gopro, so maybe that'll be my next move.

Don't quote me and someone else may chime in, but I'm gonna say that group buys usually get us anywhere from 5 - 25% off? depending on the company.

 

So if the threads are damaged you're saying I'd need to replace them them altogether?

 

Alignment is underway.

 

Alignment Buddies!

 

Unfortunately, yes. You're dealing with something that deals with the ENTIRE weight of the vehicle. Toyota didn’t not do its due diligence when engineering the LBJ’s. So they take the weight of the truck in its entirety. That’s why it’s such a big deal to be on top of replacing these.

 

Ole boy wasn't kidding when he said its a good week for maintanence..... Mine was a bit more pressing, but yeah we're all in the same boat

 

Yea here in southern california it was 80 degrees this weekend! Perfect weather for working on our trucks!

 

Unless you're positive you damaged the threads I doubt you need to replace the spindles. Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question. When I snapped my LBJ bolts I just bought new bolts and sent it. No issues now. It's been almost 4 years.

 

yea but if he did fxxx the threads and plans on helicoiling or something. I’d rather just replace the spindle and have peace of mind. My advice is referring to the removal of material if he planned on going that route

 

Gotcha. I agree, our clunkity-claks are different. Maybe your inner tie rods need work? How are the CVs?

My sAmazon-knock-off-gopro is showing up today! Gonna drive around the block like a crazy person until I get what I want.

 

Agree 1,000% Helicoil isn't a reasonable fix for that situation.

I can't recall if I took pics of the pads. the pads have risers on them, not sure if BQ'ing some shims on would do it. I swore there were shims when I had the knuckles (thus calipers) off to pop the UBJ out, but when I was in there this time, nope. I may just go back to OEM pads. I'm not sure.

Mine may be different. I pulled my entire swaybar trying to track down the fucking clunks. No change. I'm at a loss. It sounds honestly like something isn't greased. but I know it's not my UBJ, I actually had to clean grease away from those bastards this weekend b/c I overgreased previously.

 

Yeah I don't think it's the sway bar either, just reaching out for low hangin fruit at this point. Hoping the camera gets here while there's still some daylight.

 

Well let's see what I did today, i got an alignment done, i got the inspect redone and passed, I got my truck "re legalized" for another year, aka I was robbed of 10.50, and then I drove it for 150 miles, in total.

So those KSP UCAs officially can have a report made on them and the report is positive. The ride quality is absolutely Head and Shoulders above how it was with the factory upper control arms in there with the two inch leveling kit. There's no more ball joint squeak, there's no more Tire squeak, cornering is equal amounts of grip on either side now. Meaning the truck turns in at the same rate either on the left or right hand turn ins. Potholes are completely different like you know you hit a pothole but it's completely smoothed out, my passenger side spring is no longer touching or rubbing on the hub arm so that noise is gone. So for 250 to 300 bucks depending on your shipping rate I would say that the ksp's seem like they're a pretty good deal thus far at 150 miles. Still new so more reports to come at 500