What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah you're right, was thinking backwards. Corrected it.

 

Ok explain this anecdote then:

My tires were rubbing the back of the wheel wells. So I cut and hammered the pinch welds. Then I found out my tires were rubbing the frame rails, preventing full lock turns. So I added 1.25" spacers. But that made my tires rub the back of the wheel wells again and I later found I was rubbing the top of the wheel wells. This was happening about 70% of the time off road and while turning and articulating at the same time on pavement.
So as a hail Mary, I changed the springs from 650lbs to 700lbs, set the preload form 2.5" of lift to 3" lift, and lastly changed the SPC caster from neutral to all but one position toward the front of vehicle.
Now I rub off road maybe 5% of the time. I didn't do any additional trimming beyond the original cuts made to turn the tires.
So what fixed the rub?

 

Where are you rubbing on the 5% of the time? I believe the caster change is what fixed the pinch and frame rub. Nothing else.

Position of the tire in the well will absolutely mitigate rubbing if the rubbing is due to the wheel being too far back in the well. It just so happens, in my case, that's not the problem.

 

The spacers fixed the frame rub. The caster adjustment fixed the rear wheel well rub. The coilovers work fixed the upper wheel well rub.
No way to know where it's rubbing now for sure, because it only happens when I'm doing technical obstacles and I'm in the driver seat. But it's at full compression while turning, for sure. The point I'm making is it doesn't bother me at all though because it's a super rare occurrence now.

 

The caster change probably helped you off the pinchweld as often. When you are wheeling, how certain are you that you are trully reaching full shock/bumpstop compression? You might not be reaching it as often with the stiffer springs and where your preload is set at now.

Take ride height measurements, then take your coils off the shocks like the guy in the video I linked did. Then jack the tire up and start turning the steering wheel. That will tell you all the possible places you can hit.

 

Yes. This for sure. I'm feeling certain when I come down hard off a rock and it rubs that it's fully compressed. I haven't done the excercise you mentioned to see the geometry in motion. I'll be doing that when I rebuild the front end, probably late this year

 

Lol, you're like me and my front, passenger, diff seal. I've been in there so many times trying to figure out why it's leaking, it's a second home. But I may have figured it out today.

The guy I bought the 05 spindles from had a shop full of 1st gen parts, basically who I want to be when I grow up, and one of those pcs was a front diff. I took a gander at the passenger side seal and it wasn't seated flush like I thought it would be, but was maybe a 64th (if that) off of the housing.

So now, I'm thinking my problem is the seal is seated just a touch too far in. Probably would have just lived with the leak, had I not bought those spindles today from such an awesome dude.

 

Ah, I glanced right over the spring change. Yup.

 

The dude was funny AF

 

We’ll dang it @shifty` i thought I had my mind made up about my lift and tires and now you got me second guessing. I was sure I wanted to do 2” lift with 275/70/17. Now you’re making me think 1.5” with 265/70/17… this is my daily and I’m 99% on road. And this is my first go at doing a suspension. And I really don’t want to rub. That drives me nuts.

 

265/70r17 with a 2 inch lift is a solid pavement DD choice.

 

Had to hold off on the front until next weekend, but got my rear 5100’s installed. Holy smokes, that shouldn’t have been that difficult! Super annoying getting the top bolts off, and then aligning the eyes of the shock with the bracket was a real pain as well.
Overall pretty simple just super annoying. Took about 2 hours, and the ride is 10x improved already. My OEM shocks were absolutely shot, they barely took any strength to compress them.
Am very excited to see how she drives with the front all finished next weekend!

 

I agree! But I still think 1-1.5” is great too. I think 1” with 265/70r17 is probably great for looks and on-road. 2” would maybe look a little goofy unless you went 275/70r17.

 

Full disclosure, it took me an embarrassing amount of time to realize there is an allen-key in the top of the post.

 

Think 265/70R17 is a 31.6" and 275/70R17 is 32.2". Ran 285/65R16 (32.6") with about 2.5" up front as DD. Just shaved the front fender slightly at the bottom. Don't think it's very noticeable unless you know to look for it. Swapped after about 100K miles for 275/70R18 (33.2"). Just shaved a tiny bit more.

 

honestly if you don’t wanna bash, cut, weld shit. I’m 99% sure pizza-cutters would be very doable. 255/80r17 is ~33.1” and is only ~10” wide depending on how aggressive the lugs are. It’ll be tall but skinny so less rolling resistance and should be comfy for DD.
I’m just a glutton for punishment. But the Gladiator A/T weight difference is about 8lbs between the 285/70 and 285/75 that’s a fuck load for minimal height gain.

 

We've made this tire thing way too complicated.

 

Yeah @bmf4069 has 255/85r16 and I believe he only rubs off-road.

 

I thought it was pretty simple. If you want to actually clear 33's or bigger, you better cut stuff

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k_ohONd6NkI

 

it really isn’t TOO complicated. I think it really boils down to what you want from your fitment.

Like people have said the difference between what people are willing to do to get the look they want varies vastly.

if you wanna upsize in height but don’t really want to deal with rubbing. Taller is better for our trucks than wider. With about 10.5” wide being the max for no modifications to the wheel well AND if the wheels are properly offset. Once you start going taller AND wider and/ or have improperly fit wheels. You’re gonna wind up rubbing. And the improper fitment of wheels/lack understanding of suspension geometry on Toyotas IFS will make it a nightmare.

Just gotta understand there are min-max for everything and it’s a balancing game. And the best way to balance the fitment maybe to cut and hammer the wheel well lol I highly suggest Tinker’s Adventures if you wanna indulge on understanding how IFS works and to gain a better understanding on how fitment works with these types of vehicles.

https://youtube.com/@TinkerersAdventure?si=5_axFEcFX5IgFQZY


TL;DR
Prepare to cut and bash for anything over 32” if you don’t have a decent understanding of Toyota IFS. Watch Tinkerer’s Adventures on YouTube.

 

The thing is, I run 285/70/17's just fine with zero trimming and minimal rubbing. And I'm on the more OCD side of the spectrum. So when I see people stressing over that size I can't really relate. I guess there are a lot of variables that can impact this.

 

Oh so you have an understanding of IFS and wheel fitment. Or did you just get lucky??? Lol

there’s gotta be other variables involved when others are like “285 is the DEVIL!” I’ve seen entirely TOO many first gen tundys on 33-34” and 11-12” wides w/ minimal front lift.

 

Limited understanding and some luck. But that was one of the most popular tire sizes for our trucks when I bought the tires in 2019. A lot of members were running that size without issue. I got a set of used SCS wheels which have good offset for our trucks. All I had to do was remove my mud flaps. I also took the advice of members here and had the shop set castor close to 3.

 

Yes. @des2mtn heard me rub pretty bad on a lefthand downhill turn. It only rubs on the right offroad though. My caster on the left is off and needs to be pushed forward.

 

There’s the magic sauce right there. One part offset, two parts caster. A little lift helps too, but more lift isn’t the way. 2” or so seems to be plenty. Some mild trimming on the firewall side wheel well near the mud flap attachment is common. I’m running 265/75/16s and have been back and forth about bumping up to 285s. I really wanna run @bmf4069 pizza cutters, but boy howdy they are spendy in comparison. Need to find a great deal on those. Of course as little as I drive, they’ll last the full 5-8 years life cycle without wearing out for me. If I had 17s I would run the 275/70s most likely.

 

Interesting. I'm not seeing that. Must be because I have 17" wheels. The tire I'm leaning towards in 255/80/17 is $279. If I go back to the size I have now, they jump to $298 or a whopping $350 for Mickey Thompson. Tires are outrageous now. Up 75% since 2019. Brutal.

 

I can get 285/75/16s in the $180-220 range. 255/85/16 is about $250 to start. There are some solid choices in that price range though. Probably go that route. Maybe some Wildpeak MTs.

look pretty good and fit in this Taco, so I should be good to go. I can lose the wheel spacers if I need to.

 

billy 6112's & jba high caster.