What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I already swapped the best tire onto the spare steel wheel. I have three with tires and one bare. I even have a newer set of center caps. I guess they will just sit until I can find someone to take them or they end up going to the scrap yard.

 

Gracias! I know what you mean, I did everything I could to NOT buy black wheels. Felt it was too easy, but the wheels I really wanted (black rhino shredder) were never in stock and only came in 17".

But I couldn't be happier for what I "settled" with. Just gotta take the mud flaps off

 

What's your suspension story here, what's up with the reverse rake action?

Progress is good! Looks great! Bet you wish you'd have done this 100k miles ago

How heavy are those wheels? It's the only beef I've ever had w/KMC, they tend to run heavy IME, but I haven't bought any of theirs since the last set of chrome 5-spokes I had bitd.

Here's a little progress panel of pics from your 2nd or 3rd post on Tundras.com (original lift), new lift w/OEM wheels, and new lift w/KMCs. Great work. Now fix those fucking window trims and do something about that fuel door!

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Mr. Encyclopedia Britannica over here! @shifty`

Thanks man, means a lot. Lol, those window trims are nasty, but if you keep your truck looking just shitty enough, no one will break in... but seriously I need new ones.

I'm starting to like the black, gas door!

Oh I forgot to say, the wheels aren't too heavy, just under 23 lbs each. With the new tires, probably a 25-30 lb increase per tire.

 

this is rad. How’s the overall fitment? I’m debating going the same route with 285/75r17 in some gladiator a/t’s. They’re like $60 cheaper for the set vs 285/70r17 same tire.

 

It not that bad honestly. The parking lot is jacked up there. However remember when I shitty lift kit "DIYd" by owner 5...... Yeah. In reality on a leveled surface it is only 3/4 of an inch difference. It's been measured with a Bosh laser level lol. The rear shocks need done as well. So I'm sure that's a contributing factor as well

 

Thanks! Pretty good, gonna take off the mud flaps, bit of rubbing there. But a 17" might have even more rub. Still need to get an alignment, so I haven't gone full lock to lock yet.

 

Threw on the Nilights. Originally wired them via the OG fog wiring but forgot that lo-beams have to be on in order for them to get power. So I scratched that and wired them in separate w/ a switch. And I peeled the putter ring of plasti-dip off the grill. Doesn’t look bad. But I did it since I’ll be getting a light bar later on and I’ll wind up painting a portion of the hood flat black. I think the paint-matched outter ring should help add good contrast when that happens.


Also got this last weekend. I messed w/ arc welding when I was in my early twenties. Not good but figured I’d give it a go since I’m not some shithead anymore. Gonna build front pre-runner style bumper, sliders, and make a high clearance rear end.


also order my suspension via Hotshot Off-road. So here’s lunch and dinner.

 

Did you photochop the fuel door out of the first pic?

 

Another Texan I see. Wanna join the crüe?

 

What is this krue you speak of?

 

Note the Tundra badge in that photo, and you'll know what I did.

 

Before you do that, talk to some of the dudes running 33s @ 285/70r17. I'd wrather spend the extra $240 on tires than beat and cut the snot outta my truck to tuck rubber.

 

He's a witch!

 

It's pretty exclusive.

 

I see what you did. You found a stock photo of a RHD Tundra that looks just like his! Genius

 

I agree with shifty @FishNinja

Part of the reason I stuck with 16" wheels. I'm technically just a gnats ass under 33", but that same tire on a 17" would have put me closer to a 34". Granted, I haven't wheeled with this set up yet and I'm sure I'll find out real quick where it needs adjusting.

 

Don't listen to em @FishNinja bigger tires are the way of our people.
If I had bought 17's in the first place I'd have gone with the taller, skinnier 285/75r17.
But I ended up with 16's so I went with the tall n fat 295/75r16 instead.

 

Oh im pretty set on the 285/75’s. She doesn’t go off the beaten path enough to warrant worry about major rub/damage. I’m basically building a truck to haul my kayaks back forth from mi casa to the coast and work out of.

 

Let me know the deets via pm lol

 

We'll get ya out to some off-roady stuff soon enough.
What part of TX are you in?

Jamboree is in May

 

Patience grasshopper.

 

Are OEM replacement the only way to go or is there a good/cheaper after market?

 

Cool, I got 275/70r17 and I rub pretty regularly with mostly in-town driving and the occasional mountain trail/lake trail. With more than 2" lift front and rear. That's 32.2". 285/70r17 is 32.7", step up to 285/75r17 and you're at 33.8, not only are you going to be eating gas and accelerating like a pile of dogshit, you're going to need to be cutting shit, even with street driving. If I'm rubbing at 32.2" of tire on a 17 and 2" lift, which is only 1.6" above stock diameter, you're talking about going 1.6" diameter beyond where I'm running.

That's pretty nuts, but not necessarily in a good way?

 

Aftermarket option is available. It's been posted about on here quite a few times. I'm too lazy to look it up.

 

And even what assdog is talking about on 16s is only 33.4"

 

You just need to properly adust your SPC caster. Maybe your coilovers preload too.
Honestly one or the other would likely solve your rub. Both definitely would.

 

Disagree wholeheartedly. Caster isn't going to stop tire eating into the top of the fender wells, which I do, any time I'm turning and compressing at the same time.

 

Yes, 33.4" x11.6" vs 33.8"x11.2"
So pretty comparable when talking about rub factors.
We're talking 1/5" when you think about it

 

Oem probably last longer, but more $$. As it do, ya know? I've only tried to search for them a couple times, without much luck either way.