Transmission Cooler Bracket

Thanks. Since no one seems to be selling just the bracket. I may get extras cut out if I go the route of the plasma table. I think a lot of DIY people would prefer to get the bracket and a parts list of what to order in an effort to save money.

 

I’m going to be sending the CAD file off to get the brackets cut in the next week. I’m trying to gauge any interest and if I should get extras cut. Let me know if anyone sees a demand for just the brackets, the rest is an easy parts lists.

 

What is the cost you estimate for the bracket?

I have a list for the parts with part numbers and links. Cost for everything was about $700 plus tax/shipping. I’ll post it here on Sunday.

 

I can sepeculate the cost being around $100 for a raw finish and you would need to paint it. I can get it powder coated, I would have to have a conversion about that cost.

If the demand isn’t there then I can share the name of the shop that will be doing the cutting. He will already have the file and all you will need to do is reach out to him for the bracket. If things went this route it would be cheaper as it eliminates shipping on my end and my handling charges.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/parts-list-for-adding-oem-trans-cooler-to-5-7l.125248/

I cut/welded my bracket out of stainless steel sheet.

 

What will your bracket be using for mounting points, same as GC or are you using just the two that the older brackets (the one in the pic you showed) used?

 

I’m working on a few different styles. All use the same two bolting points at the bottom. One version has a tab that comes off near the top and attaches to the bolt that the condenser mounts uses to add a second point of contact on the top. Another other uses one point of contact. The brackets are flat for simplicity, I don’t see why this won’t work. Also, the bottom bolts it seems easiest to just put some spot weld nuts on a piece of metal for the bolts to attach to. I also toyed with another style that adds a mouthing point to the hood latch support, this would require drilling a hole and I’m not big on that.

The first few bracket are based off the Setrab cooler. I’m sure other brackets could easily be made for multiple cooler sizes and models.

I’m not looking to get rich, I was surprised to find that no one sold just a mount. I like to DIY things as I’m sure others on this forum do. Maybe no one is interested and I’ll just make a few to for friends and people local to me.

I don’t think it’s a huge concern but I do plan to cover the hose from the cooler to the hard lines with a UV resistant split wire loom, spiral hose wrap, or protective nylon hose sleeve. Given how open the front grill is I don’t think some UV protection wouldn’t hurt and the cost is minimal. My history with boating has taught me that the sun is hard on exposed rubber.

 

I saw your bracket earlier when looking for ideas. I don’t envy you for welding it. Some days the thin metal and me don’t get along when welding.

 

Transmission Oil Cooler Line Clamp - Toyota (90466-16004)
- qty 8
- $3.28 each
- total: $26.24

Cooler Assembly, Transmission Oil With THERMOSTAT - Toyota (32970-34030)
- qty 1
- $194.04

Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hose in - Toyota (32941-0C030)
- qty 1
- $45.77

Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hose out - Toyota (32942-0C040)
- qty 1
- $39.49

Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Tube - Toyota (32907-0C020)
- qty 1
- $99.03


Setrab ProLine STD Oil Coolers - 9-series
Part No.

$174 50-915-7612 Setrab 9 Series ProLine Engine Oil Cooler, 15 Row with M22 Ports

50-915-7612
- qty 1
- size 915
- $211.31

sūsa 9-series mounting bracket set
Part No. 23-9002
- qty 1
- $48.39

sūsa ProLine Adapter - M22 to AN
Part No. 22-M22AN06-SE
- qty 2
- $9.64
- total $19.28

sūsa Hose Ends - AN to PL
Part No. 22-AN06PL06-45
- qty 1
- $14.56

sūsa Hose Ends - AN to PL
Part No. 22-AN06PL06-30
- qty 1
- $14.56

400 series hose 9.6mm W.P. 250 psi
- 6 ft total

 

Very helpful, thank you. I’m surprised that it only took 6ft of hose. For some reason I was thinking I’d need 8ft. I should be getting some brackets in the mail this week to test fit.

 

I was able to get most of the transmission cooler kit installed today in a few hours. The Gates brand transmission cooler hose I bought was very stiff and didn’t want to go onto the hard line that runs from the thermostat to the front of the engine. The Gates hose is 3/8 but just stiff. I lubricated the hose and hardline but still it would only go about halfway. Gates hose part number is 27059 with a max pressure of 400 PSI.

I went to Autozone and they had 3/8 transmission cooler hose which online said it was made by Continental but that same part number was printed on a hose that also had Duralast on it when I went it it the store. The hose had writing showing the J1532 rating with a max working pressure of 145 PSI. Will this be strong enough?

The OEM short lines that run from the thermostat to the hard lines didn’t seem as robust as the Gates or the Duralast and went into the hardline with too much trouble.

I considered putting the end of the Gates hose in some hot water to soften it up but not sure if it will split eventually since it would be so tight?

 

This is a pic of the hose that comes in the Transmission cooler KIT. Not sure where it's sourced from.

Here is a link that looks to be as good if not better.
3/8 inch 10ft
KT07122S1BK-3.05-AMZ1
https://www.ievilenergy.com/products/transmission-oil-cooler-hose

 

At $100, I'd be curious if you'd support a 20-row Setrab. IIRC, it was something like 1/2" extra in width. All to the left would make the most sense to me, but that is how I intended to do it if I cut/extend/weld the GCS bracket I have for the 15 row.

 

Nice AR backdrop

 

I ended up going to my local Napa, we have a distribution warehouse and few miles away. The warehouse usually have everything in-stock, just have to wait a few minutes for it to come from the back. They had bulk transmission cooler 3/8” hose by the foot. The part number was NBH N1956, $2.69 a foot. I got 7ft and had about a foot extra. The hose is made by Gates, part number 6GTHX, max temp 275 and max working pressure is 400. It was fairly pliable and I hit the end with my heat gun for a few seconds and with some ATF for lube it went on without too much of a fight.

The cooler is on and done. Just need to keep on eye on the connections for a day or two and call it good. So far the demand for selling just the mounting bracket isn’t huge.

I did turn a pump sprayer into a fluid pump for filling the transmission like others have done. Cheap and super easy, didn’t spill a drop.

The brackets can be made to fit pretty much any cooler without too much work.

 

Good call on Napa. Much cheaper. Part number is different from what I could find though.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBHH1937

 

This is what I purchased.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBHH1956

https://www.gates.com/us/en/search.html?searchType=product&text=6gthx

 

Just joined the Tundra Club on Wednesday with a 21 Lunar Rock. Trans cooler is top of the list for me. Count me in as one interested in a bracket. I’ll be checking this thread and making a purchase list within a week. What’s the consensus on best OBDII gauge reader for trans temps? I have a scan gauge in my Tacoma with trans temps and I’m used to it. Just curious what Tundra owners favor?

 

https://cruiserbrothers.com/shop/au...-suit-toyota-tundra-2007-onward-with-6-speed/ I saw this kit posted earlier, but is it a kit or just the cooler?

 

If you get a complete kit from GCS it comes with a Veepeak now I think. I use a Veepeak and the OBD Fusion App to monitor my temps when I’m curious. It was helpful for when setting the trans fluid level when the temperature came into range.

Here is the spacer I used for the top mount.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1138246898...McYd9XESkm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here are the grommets I used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1952098480...McYd9XESkm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I bought my WS fluid from Amazon. I also bought new crush washers for the trans pan drain and check bolt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2954890824...ar=593584851207&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

At the time I bought everything I found this seller on eBay to have the best price on the cooler, fittings, adapters, and mounts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3819185823...McYd9XESkm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I bought my OEM items from Fred Anderson Toyota. They offer free shipping and a discount that is automatically applied to your order, at least they did when I ordered. I think there are several threads with the OEM part numbers, if anyone needs them let me know and I can add them.

I do have one bracket ready to go that is powdercoated a satin black. I have a friend who was interested locally but if he’s not in a rush I can probably sell that one until I get more made in a week or so. I may just get a small batch cut and powder coated. I could sell it unfinished if anyone wanted to further save a few dollars.

 

I’m waiting on a tundra owner from a FB group to let me know what “cooler” he bought and did not use. I’m not sure if he bought one of the kits or just a random cooler, but he purchased it and found out his Tundra had one..OOPS…so it’s been in his shed. Thanks for doing this legwork and posting. Unsung hero. I will be interested in the bracket if this other “cooler kit” is not something I can work with.

 

I think the Automatic Wholesale kit from Cruiser Brothers is just the cooler, mounting bracket, and hose. You’d need the thermostat, hoses from thermostat to hard lines, hard lines, clamps, and mounting bolts for the hard lines.

I sourced my bolts, nylon lock nuts, and washers for the cooler attachment to the bracket from Monster Bolts. I can get the sizes for anyone who needs them. Overall the quality was decent but I did get a few bolts that had a few bad threads that I ended up tossing. Overall for the cost I have no complaints.

 

Cooler, bracket, rubber hose. This cooler is made to supplement the factory atf cooler on 2007-2018
Tundras.

For 2019+, you would need to add thermostat and lines.

 

Is the proper way to set the fluid level in the transmission pan to park the truck on level ground or have the bottom of the pan level front/back and side-to-side?

When I did mine I had the flat part of the transmission pan level, the frame rail happened ago also be level at the same angle. In my case, I had to raise the front of the truck, this was helpful and gave me plenty of room to fill the transmission and pull the check bolt.

Just curious what the general consensus is. Doing the check on level ground would have the pan higher in the back. On a lift I’m thinking the pan would be closer to level than not.

 

Truck on level ground.

 

Level ground will obviously help but the truck itself being level is more important. I usually put a magnetic level on the pan. If the truck is on a lift, it should already be level.

 

The cooler has been on for several weeks. The temperature difference at the cooler between the inlet and outlet is impressive just touching the hoses.

Today I pulled my boat a little over an hour away. The boat and trailer are around 4,000lbs. Air temperature was 84 degrees, a mix of interstate and hilly backroads. The highest the pan temperature got was 189 degrees.

I’m not sure one can say for sure how much the cooler helps the transmission, but I would say at the very least it will extend the life. If you piece together your kit or buy a GCS kit I think it’s a worthwhile investment.

 

I installed mine a year ago, at the time GCS was out of stock and also I wanted the 20 row which they discontinued so I made my own bracket using .125 aluminum, prime it and painted it and very happy with the results. I'm attaching a few photos in case you guys want to do the same.

 

Just make your own. It's not rocket science but it does require some effort. I made my own and it's holding up just fine after 3 years.

 

x2. If you've got some aluminum or even steel scrap plate lying around, a bench grinder, and a drill - its pretty simple. I made my own mount/brackets as well...but just made a top and bottom bracket vice one that encompassed the entire cooler. It's held up well so far.