What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

When i had my windshield replaced safelite let me take a gander after they got the windshield out.

 

Tinkerers Design did a really interesting video on YT about Sway bars, no sway bars, front only and rear only. Rear only seemed like the best all around option.

I had installed the rear Addco sway bar a year ago after removing my front sway bar and really liked it. Unfortunately when I recently added my u-bolt flip kit from archive garage the rear sway bar had to come off to fit the bump stops. Im thinking of either selling the sway bar or trying to bend it in a way to make it fit. Still not sure how to make it work though.

EDIT: just saw you wrote in small font about the YT video, haha

 

I'm interested to see where this goes with the inverter

 

Yeah, me too. My rear bar is off since the suspension work. I’d like to try it out. But I think I need much longer end links. And if the u bolt flip adds complication then I have that to deal with too. It’s on my list. The list is long.

 

So, I had some dents and scratches in my bed, so I had them repaired and the bed repainted. Unfortunately, they had to remove my TRD bed decals. In the photo below, the top gray bed decal is the original, which is now gone. The gold one on the bottom is a rendering that my buddy drew up and is going to make for me on his vinyl cutter. He couldn't remove the top one in the photo. Keep in mind that I have bronze wheels. Thoughts?

 

At least the bottom one is on the period correct spot. Looks nice.

 

Are you sure the top one was original?

 

^ I like it!

 

Original when I bought the truck in July.

 

Toyota Used Racing Development
Or underdog...or whatever.

 

If it isn't my 04 has the same one.

 

It was two tone? And same location?

 

Yup

 

Weird. I've never seen black on black before. Did you buy it new?

 

Black on blue, but no I bought it in 2017.

 

URD has some cool stuff

 

I just got off the phone with Rock Auto parts. As some of you know I am dealing with a ball joint issue, I just replaced them less than 3,000 miles ago uppers and lowers both sides with Moogs. They will not refund my purchase the lady who I dealt with over the phone was less then Stellar as far as customer service goes, a first for me dealing with RockAuto. I didn't pull the Karen move and ask for the manager I did however get them to give me a $15 discount on my next purchase through them as compensation. As I was "over the mileage limit" for a warranty return or replacement. As to what that mileage limit is it could have been 0.1 of a mile or it could have been one mile less than a half on them currently which is approximately 2,689 miles and they're trashed. I like rockauto, will still continue to use them for parts, but that lady really doesnt need to be in customer service.

The good news is the new OEM lowers and the KSP UCAs should be here tomorrow. If UPS is telling tbe truth. I will post install stuff for the KSP, and do the daily and long term reports in then as they seem to be an unknown here. So I've been told.

 

The moog warranty is only 3,000 miles?

 

I think Rockauto asks for the mileage and then subtracts 1 mile from it to say you’re over by 1 mile.

 

I will say, i went on a camping trip about a month ago with no sway bars on winding country roads and didnt really miss the rear sway bar. But i do have that bigger camper that i built with more weight in the bed and figured itd be best to have atleast a rear sway bar if i can figure out a way to make it work.

 

Well 26/2700 isnt 3000. But regardless Moog ballnjoints will never go into another one of my vechilces ever again. In the 11 months I've had this truck its seen a whopping 4200 miles thats it. Daily shit is for my VW, the tundras just supposed to be my go get shit for projects truck. But it'll all be ok I guess. Just dont like spending money on jobs I did less than 6 months ago is all.

 

Honestly thats how it feels

 

Finally got all the gear in for my suspension refresh. Going to tackle the job this weekend, will post pics and thoughts after.

- Bilstein 5100’s with OME 2885 up front
- JBA UCA’s
- Suspension maxx extended sway bar links
- Moog inner/outer tie rod ends
- OEM LBJ’s

Decided to leave the lower control arms and slowly leaking rack and pinion to the next round of repairs on the front end.

Any tips or discussion for this job would be appreciated! Already have watched a lot of videos and done all the research, it looks pretty straightforward!

 

Looks like were both doing UCAs this weekend. I'll be doing KSPs tho.

 

What are you doing to lift the rear? That config will leave you squatting half inch in the rear if 4wd, as much as an inch if 2wd.

The real beast is getting the upper balljoints out of the knuckle if you're 4wd. Your truck info is lacking, so we have no idea what advice to give b/c we don't know what drivetrain you've got.

First thing to do is disco your damn swaybar links, unbolt the bottom while the truck is on the ground.

 

I’ll have to update that- I’ve got 4x4 and 5100’s for the back. Have been eyeing a set of AAL on marketplace if I need to add any more lift to the back to compensate.

Also doing power steering flush and transmission drain/fill. The ole girl is getting much needed TLC

 

Go here. Update "Vehicle One-Line Description:" to replace that "4.7l" with "V8/4WD", or whatever.

If you want my Icon AAL, it should have you sitting out back about 1/4" higher than the front. https://www.tundras.com/threads/icon-aal-oem-upper-control-arms-leafs-swaybar-links-etc.131444/

I just need to get rid of it, I'm willing to budge on that price, knowing you'll need to pick up new U-bolts. The kit is fine, it's got about 50 miles of salt-free driving on it, but you need to ditch your overload leaf (as is true with plenty of AAL kits) to use it.

 

Tailgate Cover Update #1:

I went down to a place called Industrial Metal Supply by my house.
They had plenty of Aluminum and Stainless Steel remnants.
I found a piece of stainless that was the exact thickness I was looking for and the right size.
Went up to the dude at the counter & said, "I have no clue what I'm doing, but I know what I want" ... dude laughed & was super helpful.
When I showed him the piece I found he said, "You're lucky, we don't usually have that in that size, it must've been left over from a special order".
So he put it on a scale because they sell it by 'weight', and I gave him the measurements I needed. (small cut/ shear fee).
Paid the guy, and took it back to Will Call and one of the shop guys took it and BAM-BAM 'Here You Go' and we were on our way.

$44.18 for 18 Gauge Stainless (approx. .045" thickness) . . . and. a new pair of gloves.
Cut at 18.5" X 56.5"

Took it home and used a sharpie to trace the radius from the plastic tailgate cover for the lower side, and used a small plastic cup for the upper radius.
Got a fresh blade for the jigsaw and made quick work of that.

I'll finish it up tomorrow.
I've got a tool that works similar to a rivet gun, but puts threaded inserts instead.
I picked up 10 stainless steel 10-24 allen head cap screws that I'll use.

So far I'm diggin it . . . it's a little heavy, but not nearly as bad as I thought . . . glad I didn't go with a thicker gauge.
Here's the warehouse at IMS, and the break they use to cut it


Here's a 'dry-fit' ( I know, it's not on there straight, the dog kept jumping up to see what I was doing) . . . that protective sheeting will pull of when it's all done.

I'll post some finish pics manana . . . .

 

We have IMS out here, usually the remnants are almost half price of what’s out on the floor. I’ve been eye balling aluminum sheets every time I go in

 

You gonna texture it? Does Raptor liner come in rattle cans?