Tire/wheel fitting - 32x12 on a DC 2WD with least neg offset and lift

there's a lot to digest here in the thread already. But my first question is if I plug your numbers (9" wide, 0 offset) into that offset calculator it says you have 5 inch backspace



either way if you're running zero offset, that is only 2 mm out further than my proposed new wheels which are +2mm offset. we both would be running 9 inch wheels

where did my calculations / understanding go wrong?

 

Thanks for point out my typo, that would confuse a lot of people later. I was conflating my current Method wheels with these wheels I had on for a few miles prior: https://www.tundras.com/threads/new...tal-6-lug-17x9-12-offset.130803/#post-3441756

And clearly I typo'd the backspacing from my Methods, I should've put in 8.5" width. I'll go fix that now.

The wheels I've run on my truck thus far with 275/70r17 (32.2" diameter):

• 17x9 @ -12 offset (4.53 BS)
• 17x8.5 @ 0 offset (4.75 BS)

Those are the common wheel sizes you'll find from offroad vendors specializing in Toyota - Method, Raceline, SCS, etc. or damn close to it, since I think SCS opts for a -10 BS on some of their wheels. That's what I mean when I say "Doesn't sound like those wheels are made for a Toyota pickup..."

EDIT: And when I say "common wheel sizes", I'm more referring to the width and offset more than anything, not the diameter. I think you'll find the vast majority of Toyota-specific aftermarket wheels for our trucks will have the following specs:

• Width of 8.5 - 9.0"
• Offsets at 0, -10. -12 (with higher negative #s on wider wheels, lower / positive numbers on skinnier wheels)

But most of those are targeted at genuine offroad use. I know there are other alternatives out there, and I know - especially with/for mallcrawlers - some people are going with wider wheels and higher offsets, like what you'll see in the gallery at CustomOffsets website. But it's just not super popular here.

You also need to know that, once you step into larger-diameter wheels (18"-20"), you potentially push yourself into different territory than most, which is when you need to start leaning in on people who've BTDT (been there, done that!)

Important to realize too, some people are oblivious to a little rub. To one person "no rub" means "doesn't rub on anything". And to other people "no rub" means "doesn't rub after I removed/modified my mud flaps and hammered my pinch welds down", you'll even find people whose idea of "no rub" means "only rubs at full lock and hardcore bumps, or with bumps while turning". Sometimes it's important to clarify what "no rub" means to others.

 

mallcrawlers is funny to me. I think the narrower taller diameters on our trucks look like skinny jeans so touché

yeah, I've got a friend with the same year, same double cab. He put on larger all-terrain tires very similar to mine on the same factory wheels, I have presently. He says he has zero rub or scrub and has done no mods or trimming. And he has no lift

Edit: actual difference corrected from 0.63 to only 0.155 which is adequate

If my calculations are correct, I would have 0.155" (corrected) less room for clearance on the UCA at the proposed +2 offset.

my tires would be 0.4 inches taller than his which would be around 0.2 inches closer to rubbing the frame. I don't believe the inch lift would affect or help with that aspect but again a slightly more negative offset would if I'm understanding everything correctly

 

Yeah, mine aren't even really pizza cutters per se, but tall skinnies can definitely look awkward at certain angles. Note the driver rear tire appearance vs. driver side here. Took this a few weeks back because Tesla driver parked like a douche.

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Awesome thanks @Weagle I’m going to be going with the Factory Style wheels 16x8 2020 trd pro style wheels. With the tires I just bought a few weeks ago can’t wait to have it riding better I hope

 

that is funny, looks like a skinny leg on the driver side

and not that I need to justify myself, my preference would be for the same profile as I had from the factory which is 65s since I'm only 2WD or in the range from 60 to 70 so I was gonna go with 18 inch wheels, but due to more limited tire sizes and how the numbers played out, the 20" wheels gave me the best opportunity to to get 305s (keep it at 32") on there without going extreme on the lift and then having 33s to make it fill up the wheel well which in turn jacks up the effective lift even more as you mentioned earlier, making it difficult to get in and out

 

Yeah, I honestly think I could probably have gotten by with 1" - 1.5" lift range with these 32.2s with only minor rub at full compression. It originally rubbed front flaps until I modded them. I've only managed to get it to rub at full compression in one specific section of road where there's a downhill into a 45-50° transition to the road that you are forced to turn and most people hit it at 20-25mph. Basically a driveway down a hill into a major road, and the stop sign is 20ft before the transition. I've managed to get the truck to rub twice pulling out of that spot, accelerating to beat traffic. That even rubbed at 2" lift, but it's also a really unusual corner case.

 

I made some corrections in the calculations I did above and this combo as it relates to the inside part of the tire wheel is actually pretty close to what my friend has. After inspection he has ample adequate space to clear the UCA that would still allow for my 0.155" more inside protrusion and the 0.2" increase in height (31.61" v. 32.01", / 2).

what is uncertain is the exact change the taller wheel has with that particular profile tire. I hope this makes sense, but it would push the maximum width point of the tire's convex sidewall upwards toward the UCA effectively decreasing clearance. I'm sure there's a more appropriate automotive term. However I believe with this lower profile tire that sidewall would have less bow to it, which might or might not compensate. Just hard to say, without seeing those same 2 size tires side-by-side


There might not be any frame rub but if there is it would be on the drivers inside at full left turn lock. if so, it would appear to be slight and probably acceptable.


at that same turn, it looks like it some point it would be rubbing the plastic on the outside portion of the tire. This might be mitigated somewhat due to my 1" lift. This I believe would be a minor alteration if I've read correctly

all appears good on the driver side on full right turn with no clearance issues.

The last concern would be clearance on the fender lip when shock is compressed. His is fine. My tire is about 1.5" wider / more aggressive at the lip, but I do have about 0.8-0.9" more net height allowing for slightly taller tire but with 1" lift I haven't seen any discussions on this, and not sure of any guidelines or rules of thumb here


so, in summary inspecting this set up really helped and this is what I concluded:

1. UCA clearance would be adequate (17 is ok with 31.61" total height and there is room for 32.01" on 20's) but impact of 20" wheels with lower profile (32.01") makes this unknown

2. frame rub if any, would probably not be significant and would appear to only be on driver side at full lock left or passenger side at full lock right

3. very likely to need some minor plastic mods under the wheel wheel

4. not sure about fender lip clearance. Worst case would necessitate moving the coils up hopefully one notch / perch on the 5100s. Any comments or advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
i.e. if the tire is protruding to or outside of the fender lip how much taller should I need for the fender lip over the tire? I'm thinking I should go ahead and raise the coils one perch on the 5100s.
I gave BTDT example in the OP of someone in this forum that put 12" wides on the same model tundra, had only pinchweld mods and reportedly had no scrubbing/rubbing. His tires were 0.6" taller, with 0.58" more aggressive stance, but with 1-1/2" more lift. And of course his were on 17x9 v my 20x9's.

AND obviously a little more wheel offset or a minimal hub spacer would likely cure #1 & 2 of those potential 4 issues but could potentially impact #4


EDIT UPDATE: I should've known going a little extreme path or pushing the limits of tire size would require me to dig in and learn about one of my least knowledgeable areas – front end suspension

so first up it sounds like I need more lift upfront and should go ahead and replace the upper control arms. Also noticed on the aftermarket upper control arms there seems to be less material on the outside, which should aid UCA clearance

I believe I saw where some are adjustable where you could actually move your tire/wheel a little forward, which would help with what appears to be the biggest rub issue - behind the tires on frame and lower fender lip. This will probably awkward, because I'm still learning some of the common terms

found a 06 DC owner that claims he has all factory susp and he has run 295/45/20 (30.34") and 285/50/20 (31.32) with no rub and 275/55/20 (31.91) with minimal rub only backing out at full lock all factory suspension.

 

Front end refresh:

i've made a commitment to invest in, customize and keep this truck, so this sounds like the perfect time to just refresh the front end with whatever it needs. Just snatch the Band-Aid and get it updated fully

so I'm just gonna keep updating this one post to document my journey here as I research and find the best path for me through the forums and recommendations from Josh at first GEN

my goal is to run 305/50/20s with the least amount of negative offset and the least amount of lift. The fact that my 305s are only going to be 32.01 inch tall should make any trimming or mods easier than those with taller 305s


Already replaced LBJ's, so UBJ's, any bushings, UCA's, etc

i've already found quite a few people that successfully ran 305s on my model truck with minor trim mods. Their tire wheel combo also came in taller than mine such as 32.61" and 32.81" where is mine should come in at 32.01"

also found a few that were running 20 inch wheels without problems. But not yet with 305s. so far is best. I can tell the only problem presented with 20 inch wheels would be the effect on UCA clearance. so I'm going with that unless I find different. I know aftermarket UCA's give you a little more room for clearance

 

Aftermarket UCAs like the SPC unit (also sold rebranded by Eibach and one flavor of Mevotech) are only effective in the hands of someone who understands how to maximize their alignment benefits. Which, sadly, seems to be very few IME.

Aftermarket UCA using delta joints or similar require extra maintenance, and may aggravate the hell out of some folks with noisiness.

There’s pros and cons to everything. Lifting, as with lowering - which is more in my wheelhouse - is all about finding the right balance of pros and cons for you, personally. I don’t think a lot of folks grasp that. What’s good for one may not be for others, and what someone claims is awesome (for them) may not be awesome (for you).

I’m interested to see where you land on this and how you’re feeling after, honestly. And I think your experience, like Mhagha’s will hopefully help others planning to go your route navigate a little better. We don’t have a lot of info on big-wheel applications on here.

 

just curious and learning - where is your rub at full compression?

 

Tall is less of an issue than wide. That's why the pizza cutters work with less lift and no rub. Wheel offset will be key. You'll need just enough to keep you from rubbing the UCA and frame at full lock, but not so much that it pushes out the scrub radius and your rubbing the inner fenders and front bumper. Not sure that combo is achievable, but best of luck!

 

Good question - I'm not sure. It's happened so infrequently, I haven't noticed where it's digging in. I'll have a closer look out in the daylight when I wrap up today.

 

Exactly.

And my situation is different from many others. Off-roaders and 4WD's are certainly gonna want a much higher profile tire. my truck is 95% street, towing, hauling, family riding, just doing regular truck things; 5% dirt roads and occasional driving through a field or semi-rough terrain at a low speed, etc.

NOT true off-roading.

Therefore most people that have tried 305s are approaching or going over 33 inches tall. It's the width AND that height that caused the problems.

As you said, easier to go tall and wide on these trucks but if have just enough offset to clear the UCA and frame at full lock then that will minimize the need or the extent of modifications on the outside portion that might scrub the tire and wheel

Since mine are only 32.1" tall, so far it's looking like I would need somewhere between +2 and -6mm offset (or equivalent with spacers) for my specific tire and wheel combo.

I am approaching it from the inside out where it affects suspension and the frame. Then see where I'm at on the outside and the wheel well

continuing to work through it ...

 

Starting from what I know works on the inside and working my through points of concern addressing suspension and structural clearance issues first and only then worrying about rubbing and scrubbing of body parts

On a friends 2006 Tundra SR5 DC RWD just like mine:

Originally identical Tundra, tires, and wheels:
Wheels: 17x7.5 18mm offset 5 BS (4.96")
Tires: 265/65 17 street

Replaced tires only - NO suspension mods:
Tires: 265/70 17's all terrain
Good UCA clearance, and no rubbing or scrubbing issues in four years

this taller tire (265:70's) only pushed the inside tire wall up closer toward of the UCA (see High Tech Graphics, fig 1) and closer to frame (fig 2). The tire was only taller not wider but still caused it to come closer to the UCA

This still left ample room for clearance as evidenced by no issues for four years

Proposed tire and wheel combo is 0.4" taller. Divided by 2 means the new tire's convex sidewall will be pushed up 0.2" closer to UCA/UBJ. (Fig 4) than the 70 series 265 pizza cutters (fig 3).
And my truck has a leveling kit at 1" that may need to be adjusted up to 2-1/2"

the unknown with the the proposed set up is the impact of the low profile tires, causing the sidewall to come even closer to the UCA. I will address this with minimal spacers, or aftermarket UCA which does not protrude as much toward the wheel since the lower profile tire only affects UCA clearance

0.2" taller tire will also put tire closer to frame at full lock (fig 2) but because it is at an angle, it will less than 0.2" closer


there is enough clearance where the new set could come slightly closer without causing issues. But the goal is to keep it with what works

I'm definitely gonna go ahead and do the cab mount chop mod. I can't imagine it working without getting that done and that's pretty simple

 

I +1'd this because high tech giraffics.

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I have been searching and searching in the forums but thus far no luck

is there a body mount chop for a 2006 tundra?

since I've got it in the shop getting repainted, I might as well do that. I know that the front tires come extremely close to the back outside of the fender well. I know this will likely be a problem with with the wider tires

 

Not a common mod for FGTs. I'm nowhere near mine.

 

This site is a lot better for visual and tire/wheel comparison.

 

Thanks that helped confirm a lot. I've done a lot of calculations and that was pretty close but this would've been so much simpler ha ha





That confirms what I thought. That gets it in about as tight as you can to minimize the chance of rubbing or scrubbing on the outside.

very little difference on the inside or in height from my friends that I know works with no rubbing and without a lift. I have a bilstein leveling kit, but have it set on the lowest notch so it's only about an inch of lift

I've done a lot of searching, and have since found quite a few with this wheel/tire set up, and they actually went with taller tires (higher profile) with no or minimal issues. But they went with the full 2 1/2 inch level

so I feel pretty good about it. The only question is about the UCA clearance with the tire as opposed to the wheel in the calculator. I'm gonna have to see that to believe it, but it seems like people have done it successfully with more exaggerated set ups than mine

 

Thanks. I went back and looked at my friends, since mine is in the shop, and his setup is closer to mine sans wider tires

I can see now where the cab mount is really not likely to be an issue. My issue will be the plastic on the backside closest to the cab. Right in the middle

my leveling kit may prevent or minimize that problem, but it was it looks like at worst I have to use heat and mold the plastic a bit

much more optimistic now that I've seen quite a few setups similar to what I'm doing but with even taller tires

like you said, don't go extremely negative on the offset and minimize many of the potential rubbing and clearance issues. I'm not looking for a super aggressive set up. I don't want it sticking out of the fenderwells if it all possible

 

The pinch weld is right behind that plastic. With a 305 I had to cut, flatten, and push the pinch weld back with a sledge hammer. Not to mention cut the plastic out entirely. You’ll probably need to cut the inside of the fender flares and the fender liner on the bumper. And the bumper. (My bumper was already toast so I just cut a ton out since I won’t be keeping it). I took the opposite approach from you. I wanted a 305 since 35’s are completely out of question and 315’s were probably too big as well. Just started cutting. I don’t rub at all on the street, but the lift height is crucial along with cutting.

In regards to pushing larger size & offset. Tire size determines how much you cut and offset determines where you cut. Still recommending 295’s if you knew how many times I had to revisit cutting and trimming (going as minimal as possible each time).

You need the aggressive offset to fill the wheel well and can compromise the tire size so it doesn’t poke and rub. You can see my wheel is out to the flare, but the tire takes it outside the flares. 17x9 -38 wrapped in 305/70/17’s.



Only pic I had but for some visual representation.

 

thanks and I love those smoked headlights. I'm about to put those on myself

that helps a lot to know what I'm up against when it comes to bending and trimming. I really didn't even know where the pinch weld was, and was trying to find that out now.

Having said that there is a significant difference between ours - yours is 33.81" tall. Mine are only 32.01". And that aggressive offset means more trimming issues

that extra height very much exaggerates this aggressive width. And the aggressive offset compounds that width and height. Not saying I wont have the same problems, just saying an inch (0.9") shorter on each side/on the corners of the tires AND a much less aggressive wheel offset in the fender-well should mean much less trimming and banging. Mine has 40mm / 1.57" less poke.

Your increased offset and taller tire really push it up into the pinch weld more on a turn. Between the tire height and the poke, that's almost 2 inches, or possibly over 2", further into the pinch weld. EDIT: I knew that didn't sound right I had to break out the geometry that's been many years. Your tire on a turn would be 1.29 inches or 32.824mm closer/into the pinchweld.


3RD EDIT: geez The corner of your tire would be 1.89 inches further into the pinchweld. Think all the steroids were getting to me over the weekend
I was right the first time


of course that is assuming the same lift



How much lift do you have on yours?



Mine vs. yours:

 

Thanks for everyone's replies. This is really helped guide me and Help confirm the potential pitfalls.

one consistent theme I've seen on this forum and with many others is that the real problem with 305s greatly compounds when you get above 32-1/2 and gets much worse as you go over 33.

I feel pretty confident it will work now even if there are some mods, they should be much less than others

 

they’re pretty decent headlights. Definitely recommend ceramic coating on the lenses if you install.

If you were close I wouldn’t mind letting you test fit and checking out what I did cause it’ll give a really good benchmark on what you’re up against. I still think the 305 is going to rub like hell just cause the tread width is there.

estimated 2.5” ish of lift. Truck came with coilovers installed at what seemed like factory height. I cranked them up another inch and I have some shims waiting to go in for another inch (I’m just lazy). Icon AAL with 1.5” rear lift.
I didn’t realize how bad it was going to be until I mounted the wheels. I couldn’t even make a full turn on the steering wheel before it was trying to rip my front bumper off.

I still rub all 4 corners under full compression and I can say that 1.5” less offset will not alleviate that issue.

This is my 4th Toyota truck and out of all of them the absolute worst at fitting bigger tires. I did some research and also the kid who I got this truck from had 35’s on it and I realized it’s impossible to fit them. Then did the most illogical thing possible. Stepped the tire size down a couple sizes and ordered it. Didn’t think didn’t research anything. I wanted aggressive offset and big tires.

The best advice I can give you is buy the setup you want. Then make it fit. If you’re still on the fence get on marketplace and find a used tire to mount and test fit.

The devil on my shoulder says Don’t even think about it. Your final outcome only depends on how steady your hands are lol. You can lift it up to 3” and you can cut and smash the firewall as much as you can stomach. Seam seal, paint, and send it

 

Thanks! I have already made the purchase. They're in transit now, but caught up in the snow up north. So I am going to make it work. And I accept that I've got some work to do but mine should be less than many or at least that's my hope and/or I've got a hefty dose of confirmation bias

 

Can’t wait to see it

 

Me too

Mine is desert sand mica color like this one. I'm going to give it the full blackout treatment and debadging like this guy but different wheels. Already have the grill ordered and all lights. Replacing all exterior lights, including the cab and fog lights and tag lights, all LED, all smoked, and also putting mini projector head lights. I believe all that came to around $700 believe it or not

Edit: lights totaled $645 and grill was $255 so it was $900. Still not bad in my opinion

 

I apologize in advance for being a newbie and asking a simple question that I have no doubt is answered many times in other threads. However I can seldom ever find the correct threads in this forum. Normally a Google search will point to this site but not always

how in the world do you guys Jack up a lifted truck? Even with a 4 x 4 block added to a 2-1/4 ton floor jack I can barely get my truck high enough to remove my factory tires and wheels with approx 1" lift higher than factory. Much less those tires that are about 1 1/2 inches taller which require 3/4 of an inch more lift by the Jack

I know plenty in here have 2 1/2 inches or taller lift which requires an even taller jack

I've read suggestions to use a bottle jack. However, most of those only go 18 inches which is about where I'm at now with the 2-1/4 jack and a 4 x 4 block. However, the bottle jack does not look stable enough to use a block. Same with scissor jacks

edit to add: i'm guessing the crossmember would work. However, that's stretching the limit of a 2 1/4 floor jack if I'm not mistaken
I would really like to just get one tire in the air. I'm guessing that would be accomplished by jacking it by the crossmember then just putting the Jackstands on One side and lowering the jack? Raising it by the pumpkin in the back, doesn't concern me near as much as raising both sides on the heavy end on the front with the engine

I did find another thread in this forum but it did not seem to cover this scenario

 

I finally did find this in another thread, although I really need something today or tomorrow if it all possible