What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I worked in a feed store in high school. Sometimes you get lucky and the string comes off as it's supposed to. Other times, you're pulling on the wrong side.

https://youtu.be/Q-NHxRwds4g?si=9lAZmlVUHU0xRU7J

 

damn she made that look easy!

 

Drift truck just grind it off

 

Anyone have any experience with any of these? And are they of good quality?

Or should I just go with the OEM UBJs?
https://www.kspmotor.com/products/t...hY4OR448YnOsrADKxxYd4XUjTEY6UJjYaAi0rEALw_wcB

 

JBA is a decent brand. I wouldn't run those eBay freedumb offroads even if they paid me to.

 

Im able to reach my hand through the drain hole in the Skid plate and install the tubing on the nipple, remove the lock clip and slide the valve open. Im assuming the stock skid plate doesnt have an access hole like that? I bought the Skid Row plate years ago so dont remember if the stock plate gave me access like that.

 

Before you start shopping, please do yourself a favor. There's a "Suspension wheel and tire" section in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

This point is taken from that thread:

• When buying new upper control arms, There are a few types, know what you're getting, read more here to help you decide.

I recommend checking that before you start digging in too deep.

 

I have the skid rows. I haven't changed my own oil in a few years though. IIRC my hand berely fit in the hole to thread the plug back on.

 

I have the jba uca. No complaints at all.

edit** except they only come in red

 

I know that JBA are pretty popular around here.

 

I have the TC’s on my ‘05 and I don’t love the handling. Pretty happy with the SPC’s on the other trucks. Not sexy at all though. I covet the Taco Pro UCA’s but can’t stomach the price tag. May go SPC on the ‘05 eventually and sell the TC, probably not a major cost delta there, just labor unless I DIY.

 

I mean, they are (or at least were, haven't looked lately) great bang vs. buck. And it's bonus they use a more-standard style of booted balljoint for comfort, durability, ease of swap. I'm just not a fan of the welded-tube-to-plate BJ cradle configuration. That's purely my OCD though, and is probably not founded in reality. SPC probably would have similar weaknesses given they're welding to cast BJ cradle.

SPC may not be attractive but they're beefy and more configurable than any other option on the market, and the BJ is sealed, and easy to swap. The pros far outweight the cons. Trying to find someone who knows how to properly utilize them on an alignment seems to be difficult though.

 

I'm going to question you in the same way I question my customers from a gunsmith's standpoint. Are you saying that because the jba's cost more and obviously if it costs more it's better? Or have you had Real World experience with the other brand and they're just actual crap. I don't mean second or third hand stories I'm talking verified purchase I use these they broke two miles down the road..

 

The link in my bullet point above will answer this question. There's a reason Freedom has a bad reputation around here.

 

I know some people hate on the SPC's but I love em.

 

They're easy enough to configure yourself once you understand them.

https://youtu.be/v1RXnk7b2Bs?si=zhnYpQLKpp_xRMNj

 

No personal experience with either. Anecdotal at best. However JBA is a well known, respected brand. I do own their long tube headers on both my trucks and have no complaints though. Freedumb on the other hand were literally eBay uppers, likely made in China. They have a website now. But they started on eBay. And I bet they're a cheap knock off of someone else's hard work. Like the Alibaba TRD pro knock off grills and the Allpro knock off bumpers sold on eBay.

 

I DMd you

 

Sorry if I missed it, but are you lifted? If not and the UCA bushings are good, just replace the ball joint. Aftermarket UBJ is fine, but the cost difference wasn't much so I went with OEM.

LBJ isn't quality issue with aftermarket, it's a design issue. The cup around the ball isn't as big so the ball pulls through eventually. They aren't designed to be pulled like Toyota has them (bad design on 1st gen tundra/sequoia and 3rd gen 4runner)

 

I am on the 2 inch leveling "lift kit".

 

Should be fine on stock UCA, rule of thumb is 2.5 or higher needs aftermarket UCA. Are the alignment specs good?

 

When theure done theyre fine. But the truck always throws a negitive camber over time. I replace the camber adjustment bolts with new factory ones in 2020. Still keeps doing it, and i have to make the periodic adjustment. The alignment shop sid the leveling kit was most likely the cause with factory co from arms. But in tbe 3 years I've had the truck its never had a ball joint issue like I posted a few pages back.

 

That's weird. The arms shouldn't cause it to lose alignment. Are you sure the adjustment bolts are torqued? if you do get adjustable UCA's and it keeps happening, i'd look into these

https://333fabrications.com/products/cam-eliminator-kit?variant=40920756486320

 

When you say "levelling kit", do you mean strut spacers?

 

Awesome. Thanks guys!

 

I installed a new decked system with almost no modifications at all! Full install video coming soon.

https://youtube.com/shorts/zYqFDwmaS0g

 

That’s freakin sweet

 

Pawpa cap problems! tomorrow is gear day, where I’m dropping off this unit at