1st gen tundras! Touch Screen head unit. Who's got what?

Badass write-up, glad it's embedded in this thread for folks to search upon later.

Question for you about the Boyo VTK601HD. You seem well researched and I'm wondering how/why you landed on this backup cam amongst the competition.
I think I want to get one for my W650 or ILX407 and the only real reason I haven't yet is I'm worried about it shitting out on me in 4 months or after a hard winter or something after I've gone through the effort to install it. That and my rear bumper is already crunched up so whats another hit or two ey?

Thoughts?

 

I have some thoughts on that. I want to say it appears many (nearly all) of the reverse cams manufactured for our truck use an identical connection style here:

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So if the camera were to take a shit on you, you should (in theory, if what I said is and/or remains true) be able to simply pop out the camera and pigtail, then swap that bit w/o a total rewiring, assuming that connection is the same on the new cam, and their pinout is the same. I'm sure it can't be too tough to find a pinout for your camera choice.

It makes sense, after all, you're just feeding the camera power/trigger and ground as input, plus feeding video as output, all of which are universal to any camera, so why wouldn't manufacturers agree on this and make things intervhangeable? I've never Googled or asked though.

Anyway, I'm running Boyo for my camera also, just not that model. The model number (along with wiring tips if anyone else is interested) is over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1624#post-3199439

I'm not the only one running Boyo stuff, I also found this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-access-cab-stereo-speakers-backup-cam-info.81510/

When I was considering doing tailgate mount, I ran into this rotateable flush-mount Crux CUB 15 camera that looked pretty awesome, it's what's pictured above:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-g2qRdvPc2LS/p_249CUB15/Crux-CUB-15.html

But anyway, from digging around, this cable end shown above is just a standardied, keyed, "4-pin male" (name seems to really be that generic!?) cable. I found also searching for "4 pin backup camera adapter" does turn up options for camera brands which aren't using this specific 4P connection.

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And I found this pinout to compare, this seemed to be the dominant setup for the female side of that connector, so ... maybe this is the norm for 4-pin (full disclosure, I found at least one pinout for a brand I didn't recognize which had different layout for pins 1-3)

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I think the reasons I landed on this one was price seemed reasonable and it came with various style mounting options. I wasn't sure where or how I was going to mount it and so having all the different mounting brackets I figured one of them would work. I'll also be changing up the mounting style and location once I get a camper on the back and so having all the mounting brackets options was big factor.

The part that was defective on the first Boyo I was shipped was this section of setup:



So far I am happy with the camera, I have never had a backup camera before and very surprised at how well it works at night. I wish it had a more clear "High Definition" picture, I don't know if the camera or the screen is the weaker factor.

 

I think it's ultimately just the size of the lens and the fact it's fixed-focus. If someone could design a smart reverse camera that was capable of doing what any current model phone would do, you could expect a better picture. But imagine how absolutely difficult that would be ... when the camera got water or snow on the glass face or when it decides to wrongly focus on something you don't need to see.

The bottom line is, they need to jam it into that tiny form factor, but do it in a way so it's rugged enough for outdoor use, and with a generic focus of 1ft - 6ft to make it useful for 90% of its automotive tasks.

 

You going to switch the mount up high on the canopy? 3rd brake light zone?

 

Bingo!!

 

I’m pretty sure i have that exact same Boyo camera on the back of my econoline motovan. After about a year the lens became a bit opaque. Now when i look through the viewing screen, everything looks REALLY foggy.

 

I’m anticipating that, and looking forward to finding other options! I’m not a fan of how mine looks externally, and would like something less prone to getting bumped out of whack.

 

I have a ’08 Tundra DoubleCab Limited. I finally got around to replacing my system yesterday. Still learning all the features obviously but I’m pretty stoked on it! It only took me almost 16 years. LOL

 

1st gen thread, in 1st gen sub forum. Stoked for you but it’s a little off-topic

 

To be fair though, @Hi06silver should probably edit the title with “1st Gen” or something.

 

It would be a good idea.

 

Done! No more memes for you trouble makers.

 

I threw in a Boss BE950WCPA wireless with front/rear back up camera. No problems in 14 month. Cheap, but functional. Think it was around $400 with adapter harness from crutchfield.

 

Yea the wiring for the cameras is horrid. I just shrink wrap and elec tape, followed by plastic sleave. I cant see it lasting more than a few years. It would be fairly easy upgrade , but quality of cameras dont warrant it.

 

I ball on a budget.
$140 Sjoybring touch screen from scamazon. Came with back up cam.
$155 Rockville sim sub
$80

$54 SKAR rpx65 6.5" 200W 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers, Pair

SKAR rpx65 6.5’s in all 4 doors.

I am PLEASANTLY surprised at sound quality and clarity. Rear cam works great and the customer service lets me get updated background for the screen. The sub wouldn’t fit with some modifications to the floor/seat. It has more than enough thump to fill in the low end.

 

Please elaborate.

 

so I believe we DC’s have these odd vent things under our seats to direct air to the rear. And we also have a bar that sits across the rear of the underside of the seat. Most likely for structural rigidity lol. But the 3” tall sub wouldn’t fit without removing the plastic vent past the hump where the seat bolts in the front. And cutting out that bar. She fits real snug but has just BARELY a mm of clearance so the seat can slide.



driver side for example of the vent I cut out. Easiest way is to take a sharp pairing knife or a razor and heat it up with a torch. It’ll cut through like butter and make it a 2min job.

This was the only orientation that this sub would fit. Seat is slid all the way foward to get a pic of it. When slid back you can barely see the wires

 

Ahhh, I understand now, DC problems. Thank you. I got 99 problems but a floor vent aint one.

 

I just put in the Atoto A6 pro unit (Amazon) and wanted to say it was easy easy. There were 3 wires from the steering wheel control (one you ground, the other two simply tie in to the "steering wheel (+)" and the "steering wheel #(+)" tagged wires, and program in about 10 seconds. The option menu was so easy and straightforward without reading a manual or anything (seemed a bit intimidating initially) to get the steering wheel controls working. Definitely happy with the head unit with only a day since install.

I would suggest ordering some adapter panel to fill the space between the head unit and dash panel.

The 6.5" speakers were a bit of a pain to mount front and rear, as the sizing to the plastic speaker mount was kind of stupid. The factory speaker up front is for like a 7.5" speaker and you basically need an adapter/reducer plate to mount it and have the 6.5" speaker clear the panel etc. If you can find a 7"-7.5" speaker for up front that would fit better.

Vehicle is 2006 JBL equipped.

edit: post #74 on page 4 was helpful in this thread for steering wheel wiring: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bluetooth-steering-wheel-controls.51212/page-4

 

I recognize the streets on your map view...do you live nearby?

 

Yup, i do. Eastport. Let me know if you ever need a hand working on Tundra and I will do the same. -J.

 

I'll DM you...let's get coffee sometime

 

Did you have issues with screen brightnesss?
I had the 650 on my old truck and got the 670 this time cuz it worked great, and the screen is terrible. Brightness all the way up, tried auto and non-auto display and it's just dim as all hell.

 

If you haven't tried yet, update the firmware, it may be a bug in the firmware that came pre-installed on the unit. Firmware update is easy, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, just need a blank USB thumb drive, read the instructions in the ZIP download file on how to prep/use it.

If that doesn't fix, if you were wise enough to order from Crutchfield, reach out to them and complain. They should sent you a replacement unit ASAP, their customer service is exceptional, which is awesome considering pricing is usually same/better than scAmazon, where you get zero support.

 

+100 on Crutchfield. I recently installed a Dual double DIN in my truck. There was a bug in downloading data from my phone, and Dual published updated firmware. 2 step process...the first update deleted bluetooth streaming from my unit. I called Crutchfield, and they go ahead and complete the 2nd update. I did this, and it bricked the head unit! I called Crutchfield back and they sent me another unit the very next day (yay!).

The new unit did not have the bug, even though it was an earlier rev of the firmware. I elected to not try and update (if it ain't broke...)

 

That’s a great suggestion. I haven’t updated firmware since install. I did buy from Crutchfield and called tech who said it was most likely just how the unit is and suggested I look at a different one. I’ll try the update first and otherwise may downgrade back to the 650. Or try the 407 as the sales rep suggested.