What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I find Hella horns to be shrill, but perhaps that's what you need to get through the Dyno Mat, stereo upgrades, headphones & godwhatall.

 

Horny

 

Well thanks to @Kimosabe and his recent horn replacement I got to looking around online and found out that for about $35 i could upgrade the horns on my wife's 19 corolla. I just used "standard" style dual tone Hella horns (with Toyota style connectors) in place of the basic single horn. There was an unused bolt hole on the other side that was made to have another horn mounted to. Used a single in to double out Toyota horn harness adapter I believe from the same company he got his adapter harness from.

$32 HELLA 012010901 Black 12V BX Trumpet Horn Kit (Toyota)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EG18SFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
This mod was inspired by a Tundra and these horns could be used on a Tundra for replacement (or an upgrade if you have a 2000) so I figured I'd throw it here.

 

Holy cow, these poor people were apparently surprised by a “rogue wave”, not sure about this guy’s silver DC:



More info here: https://www.foxweather.com/weather-news/massive-waves-flood-california-coast-evacuations

 

we covered that in the general discussion thread. @455h0le_dachshund pointed out in the video that @Voss posted you can see the truck drive away

 

My O2 sensor gaskets are supposed to show up today. I'm so ready to put this spacer on and be done with p0430 and this infernal CEL

 

Whew

 

I heard that rogue wave came from a wet market.

 

I have done a lot to my tundra haven’t made out the complete list but today for New Year’s Eve I wrapped the steering wheel in leather got a couple of license plate frame and it came with a sticker. I know I’m waiting for a 300k miles sticker that it’s coming this week

 

I mentioned elsewhere in response to @FirstGenVol and @KNABORES …

Curious if this is coincidence or not, I guess one could look at seismic events preceding the rogue wave, and do some math to determine if so…. :

 

This guy is kind of interesting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSbaWHYxgTY&ab_channel=Suspicious0bservers

 

No, we had 35'-40' breaks up here as well... It's common this time of year up here especially during King Tides... CA doesn't see it as much as we do, but it's not uncommon a few times in the year. The King Tides, combined w/large swell, combined w/folks ignoring warnings is what causes the drama...

 

Tundra on call.
capped wires on a broken exit sign and waiting to clock out

 

31 pieces of scrap wood, 6 cross members, 111 screws, 2 jacks and 3 band-aids later:

 

Hell yeah. Just don't put it where I put mine.

 

Did full interior LED swap, really like the increased light. Did LED reverse lights a few weeks back and my backup camera quit working, assuming I need to put a load resistor past where I spliced in the backup camera power wire to get 12v to it now.

 

Been a while since my last post. Finally did the pulley upgrades (well just 2, lol) and finally got her out of the body shop. Not as bright as I hoped but still turned out nice.

 

If you didn't, good idea to put an LED bulb in the CHMSL as factory bulb tends to melt the socket. I'm talking the 3rd brake light on the cab, not the cap.
It looks like you're sporting a cap on the back, that adds magnitudes of complicated, or maybe it's burned out & not an issue.

 

Bought some brake bleeder caps for the rears as a side errand to picking up the new 2023 TurboTax software on sale at BJs.

 

Haven't heard about this. Cap would have to come off, quick job otherwise?

 

Just picked this 2001 with 215k miles up! Can’t wait to start building it

 

Have you found shifty's super thread?

 

It really is a great read for new owners.

@horner21 The Shifty` bible can be found here

WELCOME!

 

You can pull the cargo lamp fuse in the driver side foot well and that'll stop most of that issue if you have a cap anyway.

 

Unclamp and slide the cap back 11” or so. Remove the couple of screws on the lens cover. Swap in LED. Before you reinstall the plate, open the driver door. Wedge something between seat and brake pedal to hold the pedal in. Confirm all the lights light up, since some LEDs are directional and only light up one way. If all is good, reinstall lens cover. Push cap forward, reclamp.

I didn’t want to need to f with the fuses later so I just left mine in, but changed the bulbs because everyone should do it, since the stock halogens melt the lamp plastics.

 

Some really simple shit that I think gets overlooked a lot. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body. That is all.

 

Any appreciable difference in throttle response? I can appreciate warm fuzzies knowing your intake is clean as a whistle, but I'm wondering how dirty things have to get before performance actually deteriorates

 

I haven't seen any real difference yet. Just drove it around town. What I did notice is it initially idled quite a bit higher. The ECU is re-calibrating. From what I understand, the throttle body opens to 16% to achieve optimum idle speed. As it gunks up, that 16% remains a constant, but in actuality the throttle plate has to open further. I guess the same could be said for cruise speeds as well. I'm hoping to eke out some more MPG. Throttle response really doesn't matter too much to me. It's already a bit "jumpy" right off idle. We shall see. I'm going to run a tank of gas through it and check to see if there's any improvement. Will report back...

 

FYI, there’s a supposed throttle body relearning procedure to address jumpy pedal. Not sure if it applies to 2003, but supposedly applies to the later years like mine.