Vibration only when under load

My 2006 Tundra (SE with the V6) just started with a vibration when I took it on a recent trip. After driving for 7 hours it started this low vibration. The sensation is like driving on those rumble strips they put on the edges of the highway, but not nearly as pronounced. It only vibrates with the drivetrain is under load. When I let off the accelerator it goes away completely. The truck coasts straight and smooth. It brakes smoothly also.
I don't feel the vibration through the steering wheel. Given that it coasts and brakes smoothly it leads me to believe it is not associated with tires, brakes, or wheel bearings. It does vibrate enough that there are low level buzz noises coming from anything loose in the cab.

My first thought is that I have a drive shaft going bad. Someone told me it also might be motor mounts. Anything else? How might I go about diagnosing this without taking it into a shop? I am a cheap bastard and don't like to pay for things I can do myself.

Edit: 6 Cyl, Auto Transmission, 2WD, 192K miles, Everything is Factory, SR5 model

 

I'll defer to the true experts here, but it could be the driveshaft carrier bearing.

 

I would take a good look at the u-joints,

 

I don't detect any slop in the U-Joint...but I don't know if trying to move it around by hand should show anything. The only U-Joint I have ever replaced on a truck was at the point of total failure when I bought that particular truck (not this one) and it was obviously worn. The one on this truck has surface rust and looks like it could use grease, but does not appear to be greasable. When I flex the shaft by hand the shaft moves in the rubber around the carrier bearing a bit, but the joint does not slop or jiggle at all. When I look online those parts a super cheap ($50 bucks at the most) so I might just go ahead and replace the carrier bearing and the U-joint and see if that solves the problem. If it is not this It is likely something that I would need tools I don't have and experience that I don't have. All I need to buy is a ball joint c-Press. Those are only about $30 also.

 

If the cap looks like it has rust coming out where the seal is, most likely it is a dry joint which will cause a vibration under a load.

 

Do you have a CEL? A misfire can cause the truck to buck under load.

 

You don't specify your driveline components other than engine size. We need to know trans type and drive type.

 

bFunke, the engine runs smoothly all the time. I would think a misfire would happen when I revved the engine in park which it does not. Good thought though.

 

4X2, 6cyl, auto transmission, 192K miles. Complete factory original for everything.

 

Check out the TSB in this thread

 

Just to show all four caps

 

Thanks. These should be very helpful.

 

That u-joint has a grease fitting, it uses a flush type adapter.

 

Thanks for the profile tip. Super helpful

 

Sounds similar to a recent issue that I had. It turned out to be one of the u-joints. Could not tell it until I actually pulled the driveshaft out to inspect them.

 

I second this. Sounds like dry u-joint to me. Doesn't sound like carrier based on the description. I don't believe those are the original u-joints though, if it wasn't described as "sudden onset", I'd almost believe the previous owner swapped out the u-joints diagnosing the same, but ... sudden onset and vibration under load sounds like dry, rusted up u-joint.

 

If I take this apart to replace the U-joint would it be wise to just go ahead and replace the carrier bearing while I am there? Also, I just noted yesterday that there is a u-joint just behind the transmission and one just behind the carrier bearing. Replace both? I am big on preventative repairs when something is already torn apart. It is like with the 4-cylinder Camrys I bought my kids. If the timing belt needs to be changed you replace the water pump whether it needs it or not.

 

If you just do the whole driveline, you should never have to worry about it.
It looks like it has had deferred maintenance.

 

Some, like me, would argue in favor of it. At nearly 200k miles, I’d say it’s at EOL, and I’d have liked to see other things like your timing belt going on its 2nd change, and your radiator going on its 1st change and nearing its 2nd, for example.

Dana/Spicer is OEM for the carrier, and is the only brand I will ever recommend for driveline anyway. As long as you make sure to mark your drivetrain before pulling the shaft, and/or clock it all properly after pulling it, and don’t install the carrier backwards, you should be golden. A bad u-joint can kill a carrier bearing.

Do yourself a favor and buy the higher-end Spicer u-joints that are zerked. Get in the habit of greasing them at every oil change, or every other if you’re not putting on gaggles of miles or driving in salty conditions.

 

I bought this truck this last February and while the previous owner was great at oil changes, brake jobs, tires etc. I see no evidence of routine dealer maintenance per the schedule and find I have quite a bit of catch-up to do.

 

Great post

 

Don't forget to chock your wheels if/when you pull the driveshaft out!

 

Here is a little more information about the problem. Just to cover bases I took my truck in and had the tires rotated and balanced. I instructed them to check out the calipers and wheel bearings while doing it. Everything was fine. The vibration is still there. This morning I came out to go to work and the truck was covered with a heavy dew as is common in Florida this time of year. So I rolled down the window when I backed up because my mirrors were wet with beads of dew. I can hear a squeaking sound as I back up that is definitely coming from something rotating. It kinda sounds to me like something rubber, but I suppose metal can make that same squeaking sound too. Seems like a safe bet to rebuild the drive shaft.

Looking at replacing all 3 joints with this one. Price is $24.79 at Rock Auto
DANA513301XSpicer Life Series (SPL); Greasable; 3.625in Outside Snap Ring Dimension; with Yoke O.D. 3.875in; 1.062in Bearing Cap Diameter.

 

A ujoint will most definitely squeek! Good job, I think you have the answer.

 

I just wanted to putt the conclusion to this.
I replaced all 3 U-joints, but not the center bearing. Spins like a champ now.

 

Awesome news. Glad you could avoid replacing the carrier bearing.

 

Good advice, Shifty. You nailed it!

 

@70fj4045 beat me to it, though!