DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

I regeared to 5.29. glad I did

 

Regearing definitely recommended. Get all that power and performance back that the big heavy tires will eat up.

 

Hoping to join the club this week. Currently on 33” Toyo RT’s just bought 37/1250/17 Toyo MT

currently on icon 2.5’s all around with dirtking
UCA. Unsure of current offset on wheels. Will see how much chopping is needed.

im hoping the ride softens up a bit, the load E RT is pretty stiff for my likings.

 

Holy ditch lights, Batman! LP9s??? Sweet Jesus.

 

Haha that was just to see what they looked light. Pretty crazy and lots of blind spots. Also shook a lot due to their weight but part of me Kind of liked it. I’ve Since switched to Diode Dynamics SS3

 

Finally got my truck put back together with 5.29's and Eaton elockers front and rear, been doing some firewood wheeling.

 

I can only imagine the places that "stuck" means "stuck" now!! I'd imagine 80% of everything encountered you've only needed the rear locker...is that a fair statement? Looks burley and tundra-worthy!!

 

Guessing the front locker won't see a ton of use, I need to get a set of sliders before we take it in the rocks. I initially was only going to do a rear locker and found a good deal on the front so figured why not throw it in while it was getting gears. I've actually found being locked keeps me out of trouble more than it gets me into trouble with my old Tacoma and a few different Land Cruisers and a good winch is key as well.

 

Badass!! I'm excited for your adventures!

 

Well I got the 37s on.

im at about max on the body mount chop (to the bolt) and it still slightly rubs on full lock.

Whats next? Is there a kit to relocate the body mount?

I have some +1” coachbuilder shims on the way. Maybe that will do the trick. I think my icons are maxed (without killing the ride) and I don’t want to crank them anymore…

 

Have you gotten an alignment to get your max caster?

DRT makes a nice relocated body mount.

 

No I have not, we ran out of daylight. That will be next.

I see the DRT one now, looks nice, my fabricator is thinking we can simply move that bolt a bit, and reinforce everything without spending $320... Piece looks killer though

It does look like I could use some longer wheel studs, any recommendations there?

 

Check the alignment before going further with the BMC area. You may only need a touch more caster to make it jive.

Wheel studs…. Some of us have ordered the Blackhawk ones from Japan. I think one fella had troubles, but that may be a limited issue. I’m unaware of any other people having problems. Make sure your lug nuts are deep enough to use the longer studs and you should be golden.

 

Plenty of threads here on this. I run these with no issues https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/products/kyo-ei-sblc-1

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-fix-for-short-front-oem-lugs-aftermarket-studs.76918/

 

If I remember correctly, max out caster, then camber and then toe. Camber and toe should stay within spec, you’ll just have your alignment guy set caster within the range you want it in.

For example, I run SPC and have caster set to 6.7*. Toe and Camber in spec. I rub when I steer to far while reversing.



but here’s some info from @KevinK

 

Correct all specs in oem but caster maxed

 

dumb question, if its drives perfectly as is, does it still need to be aligned? Wheels/tires visually dont appear out of alignment and it drives straight / responsive at all speeds...

 

You can put any tire you want on and drive straight (most...). It's when you start articulating your vehicle's IFS is when you'll get into a lot of trouble by not doing an alignment.

 

thx!

 

I set caster to 4 degrees with SPC UCAs. Dont rub even with mud flaps installed.

 

The alignment update will help with the rubbing issue you’re having is what we’re getting at

 

Who makes that read bumper? I like it.

 

Thanks guys! Will ask for 4 and see what happens. I have DirtKing tubular UCA

I assume I will need to re-align if I put the coach builder shim's right?

Do you guys think 1" of lift (.5" shims) will make the ride much stiffer? Trying to avoid that at all costs, mostly went to 37's to have a larger and softer sidewall (D vs E)... not trying to go the other way. the road to my house is 2 miles of heavy washboard. over 20psi is rough

 

The rear bumper is SOB Fabrication, you can find him on IG and I believe he’s in here too.

 

You can message me if you're interested in one of those bumpers.

 

I don’t know, but the available body mount relocations is not the answer imo., combining a polyurethane body mount in 2 locations and the rest being rubber is not desirable. All in the alignment, and that does not mean “maxing out caster”, where the wheel sits in and out of the wheel well needs to be considered as well. I’m fortunate enough to be able to do my own alignments. Ran 35’s MT no cab mount chop, no pinch weld ruining. Run 37’s now but LT, did the cab mount chop, pinch weld not touched. Jump it, accidentally smash it too hard, no rub. The caveats - next to impossible at the local alignment shop, need a shop that ignores the good enough values and will listen to what you want, and the frame is a wet noodle, if it’s bent in (will be difficult to get correct camber) go ahead and max out caster, best that you can do.

 

Im taking it to a shop that specializes in lifted trucks, including trohpy trucks. What values do you recommend i go for? whats already been posted?

Thank you

 

Honestly, it’ll be the minimum caster that allows full steering without rub throughout the full suspension cycle. There is no magic number. Might be 3°, might be 7°…. Don’t go 7° if 3° will do it with YOUR truck!

 

Exactly this. I’m running OE bumper so I don’t necessarily have the clearance to center my tire within my wheel well. But if I had a HC bumper, I wouldn’t exactly get caster as high as possible.

 

How do you test full stroke? take the coilover off?