What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Does it also leak out the sunglass holder? Mine would drop water into he cup holder from there and the headliner by the mirror would also be wet.

 

Looks like it might need a gasket replaced, that’s a damp floor- do you call a plumber or a mechanic ;-)

 

Yep. Same place.

 

Right? Also missed opportunity on the theme to have a clutch master cylinder soap dispenser and a Muncie 4 speed shifter for the faucet handle

 

Upper windshield lost its seal. Probably rusted.

 

Probably? Haha

 

Husband now complains when the wife washed the dishes in his sink

 

So mine had a big crack from top to bottom in the windshield when I bought it. I don't know if that had something to do with the leak, but the crack ran right by the problem area. When I finally got the windshield replaced a few months back, the guy said he had to clean up a lot of rust behind the seal. But since then, the leak has been gone. I suspect when the windshield cracked, it caused the seal to lift up slightly and allowed water to settle in the pocket it created. That caused the rust, which further pushed the seal from the roof and eventually caused the leak. That's my theory anyways.

 

Trying to be optimistic here. Last thing you need is more rust, broseph.

 

I already know it’s rusted underneath. Just not how bad.

 

Schrödinger's Cat.

 

ftfy

 

Didn’t know we had physicists and P-chem majors here

 

I'm not a physicist or P-chem but some people say I'm a major PP, also a complete PITA, and occasionally a total POS.

 

birds of a feather...

 

I have a seal removal tool like this

but somehow since the last time I used it, the hook tip part unscrewed itself and went AWOL. It’s recommended by a lot of mechanics but honestly, it wasn’t super great. The hook tip part wasn’t very strong and the ‘hook’ straightened out and wouldn’t grab anymore during its first use. It’s also just a clumsy design. I ended up using these from harbor freight as I had them already. They’re like 2 bucks.



The seals came out easier than expected. The trick is to stab between the shaft and seal, and then point the hook to the outer edge and pull out, working your way around so it comes out straight and evenly, otherwise it will bind. The shaft is extremely hardened steel so you won’t scratch it unless you’re really trying to.

 

What does the silver part of this tool do?

 

It's a support/leverage standoff.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pzIT1ti9uGA​

 

I was going to get one of those tools when I did my crank seal...but I ended up using a 50 cent paint can opener. It worked surprisingly well.

 

or 2 of those would probably work awesome

 

Faron? That was Frieda’s cat.

 

As do I

Better?

 

Thanks, @JakeJake. As if I needed to spend the money or something.

"Today, shifty ordered some parts for his Tundra!"

​

 

Done

They were loose, as expected. I couldn't find a way to wrench on it and take a pic, so here's a pic of a torque wrench. Also, the conversion chart here at work shows 4.5 ftlb to be 54 inlb.

 

It's a vicious cycle. Cant complain about $290 in savings though!

 

Oh hell naw, I'm stoked about that. And I can't wait to get my rear door panels off to install these f'n hinges so I can do other stuff. I've been wanting to measure for 6x9's, make a duplicate template of the speaker plate, and sound deaden the rear doors considerably more, so ... it adds to the laundry list of things I've been meaning to check off for months. Probably won't do my LBJs any time soon, but given they're 15 years old at this point I'm sure the grease is less-than-virile, even though they've only got 50k-60k miles.

 

Sounds like you might have your heart set on some 6x9s for your rear doors, but just thought I'd throw this out there https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P603F/Infinity-Primus-603F.html in the rear are a direct fit, easy replacement, and paired with https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P603CF/Infinity-Primus-603CF.html?tp=106 in the front sound pretty f-ing good.

 

direct fit



(saving these for later)

 

I don't buy Infinity products. I've already got aftermarket co- or triaxials back there. I'm looking for something with a little richer/deeper low-end, Infinity's products are notorious for being tinny and lacking bass response. 6x9 are superior w/low-end fill.

I do give Infinity props for moving to the same lower impedance JBL's been using, though. Smart move, I think you'll see others following suit over the next 5-10 years.