295/70/18 tire thread

Perfect bigger tires and no mods, mod... you didn't actually even need the lift...

If you try this and have rubbing... adjust your caster so you don't...

 

I'm wanting to put some 295s on my Tundra. It's a TRD double cab with a 1" spacer lift up front and stock off road wheels. I've got 1" Bora spacers as well. Seems like I'll be fine but thought I'd check. I've already removed the mud flaps.

Currently running BFG KO2s in 275/70. I've had these tires on several rigs and always really liked them but these ones have gotten really loud after about 30k miles. Lots of tread left but unbearably loud. Healy leaning toward a set of Wild Peak AT3s.

 

One of my favorite things about my Wildpeak AT3's is how quiet they are with daily driving. Mine have almost 40k on them now and still very quiet.

 

Just got a set of 305 Wildpeak install.. what psi do you have on yours?

 

40 psi has been good for me. Good wear, not too harsh, and still net decent mpg's. Do the chalk test to make sure that wears evenly for you.

 

Cool thank you!

 

295/70/18 Ridge Grapplers.

 

Does anyone know if my stock 2012 wheels are the same backspacing as the stock 2.5 gen wheels that folks are running 295s on without wheel spacers?

I bought this 2012 a few months back and it had brand new 295/70/18s installed, but it has wheel spacers. I'd like to remove the wheel spacers if I won't rub. I have stock UCAs. Just checking here before I do. Thanks all.

 

They should all be 60mm

 

Yes, the same. If something does rub, it's easy to fix.

 

Hoping for some feedback.

want to get some falken wild peak at3ws in 295/70/18 on 2017 trd or wheels.

I will be installing bilstein 6112 on the top setting, with a driver side shim, and a 1” lift block in the rear with bilstein 5160s. I also have 1.25” wheel spacers. Not sure if I need them or if they hurt the cause.

appreciate any feedback.

 

If easy clearance is your "cause" then the spacers will increase the likelihood of fore-aft rub, but decrease it for the piece of sheetmetal called a "skidplate". Which I think is just there to give the warranty guys a clue that you've been driving offroad... If you want the tires to stick out farther then do it. It won't be that hard to make clearance with spacers.

Another bit of advice. Do 1.5-2" of front lift, and leave the rear alone. Everything will work better and last longer.

 

You may to also spend some time searching through the threads regarding spacers... I know a lot of folks have used them w/o issue. However, there as also been quite a few folks that have had serious issues using them. If you post a question about them in the 2.5 general thread, you'll get some good feedback and opinions on their use

 

I've been using spacers on my '16 off road wheels for a couple years now. No problems whatsoever. I got quality spacers from Bora. 1" if recall. I'm not running 295s though. Hoping to with my next set of tires.

 

Are people having issues with 2.5” lift? Ripping cv boots?

 

It puts more wear and stress on the CVs and ball joints. The steering and suspension are designed to operate in the stock configuration and lifting it with shocks just rotates it down, and moves it into a non-optimal position. 1.5-2" levels it and gives you a little more ground clearance in the front. That's also enough lift for 37s. Stock UCAs are still fine. If you really want ground clearance, bigger tires are the best way to get that. Going to higher lifts gains you nothing, and you lose in front end reliability.

 

Understood. Definitely not new to the lift/cv world. I’ve been running around 2.5” on my Tacoma for years without much issue. But I also have rebooted the cv a hand full of times( now running RCVs) and replace the lower ball joints and uni balls every 2 years. Because I wheel it pretty hard.

that being said, I want my tundra to be a road cruiser. So as long as I can run 295/70/18s with my stock wheels(I can do some trimming) I’m good with doing the 1.9” setting with no lift block and no wheel spacers.

 

What’s the best wheel back spacing if I decide to get wheels that work for our trucks.

 

I think +35 to +50 is pretty ideal for fitting bigger tires, but +25 are much more common. The stock +60 is fine, but the tires cannot be more than 295 width generally.

 

Yeah I have been looking through wheels. +18 seems the most common. Then 25, yet to find 34-50 in a wheel I like

 

Since this is the 295 thread, stock wheels are fine, and if you want them to stick out a little more, a 1" spacer will give you +35mm.

 

Here’s my final results: 295/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT4Ws on SCS F5 18x9 25 mm wheels. I was rubbing on the front mud flaps and the front bumper (even with the CB 1/2” spacer) and the passager side also was rubbing the skid plate. I trimmed the skid, pulled the flaps off and remolded the front liner. I’m not rubbing on flat ground anymore, but I haven’t explored inclines.

 

Your truck looks great. Update with more info when you get it off-road.

 

295/70/r18 BFG KO3s. Running Billstein 6112s in the front (top setting or 2nd to top) and 5160s in the rear. No spacers or any shims. No rubbing or issues.

I did remove the front mudflaps and shifted the fender liner forward when I replaced the steel bumper caps for color matched versions. No cutting or molding with a heat gun.

 

New member - looked at a few threads here for info before making the tire choice. Thanks for all the info and thought I'd post another pic for future reference. 295/70/18s on stock TRD 18" wheels, no spacers, near stock height (Fox 2.0 C-clips set at lowest level - roughly 0.5" lift in front). - side note, the Fox 2.0 C-clips are fantastic for a daily driver. Significantly softer than my Fox 2.5 RR Factory Series on my 4Runner and also a significant improvement over the OEM TRD Bilsteins that I found both overly harsh and lacking in rebound damping. The Fox 2.0s are both cheap and nicely progressive with adequate rebound.

295/70/18 Michelin Defender 2's fit with no rubbing at all. I did not need to move or remove any of the mud flaps including the front ones. I did trim the "skid plate" wings a bit with some tin snips before installing - not sure if it was necessary, but it was easy to do while the tires were off. TBH I thought they would visually look a bit bigger. But they fit nicely, ride is fantastic - quiet, balanced very well, good snow traction, and so far pretty minimal mpg hit. My guess is that I'll be within 1mpg difference corrected for tire height based on the first few trips. As a comparison my 2015 4Runner took about a 4-5mpg hit going from stock to 34" tires.



EDIT: First longer drive with the 295s. Average on the dash was 15.4mpg. adjusted for tire size it would be 16.6mpg. Typical mpg for that drive with stock tires was about 18. So I lost about 1.5 highway mpg going to the bigger tires. Not sure there's a big difference in warm vs the cold weather. I haven't generally found it to be much different previously. But it definitely was cold. -5 F. And FWIW - I'm in Alaska and we don't have ethanol in our gasoline if that matters.

Other thoughts are that the 295/70/18 tire size appears to have roughly similar tread width as the 275/65/18s I had before. If anything it may be slightly narrower tread width. I set the pressure at 45psi at around 60 degrees in my garage. Costco sent me home with around 10psi in the tires - they were loose wheels, but still pretty sure I need more than 10psi. Maybe that nitrogen is getting too expensive to use willynilly. Lol. Ride quality seems very comparable to 32psi in the stock size. Might be slightly harsher, but I think the taller sidewall helps offset the stiffer tire and higher pressure a bit. Power loss is noticeable, but mild enough to be quickly forgotten especially at sea level here. Won't tow anything heavy until spring. The Michelin 295s are 56lbs vs about 40lbs for the stock ones and obviously taller as well.

I also would say that the LT tires, probably due to higher pressure, have noticeably worse snow and ice traction than the P rated version of the same tire. Not sure if they are similar tread compound or not, but I think the P rated version performed better on snow and ice based on initial experience.



EDIT after 3k miles: Traction on snow/ice remains noticeably worse than the P rated version of the same Michelin Defenders. I'm a little disappointed in the winter performance. I think the Cooper AT3s I had on my 4Runner were better on snow/ice than the Defender 2. The P rated Defenders were better than either.

I haven't been stuck or in a crash. Just notice slipping a lot more starting from stoplights/signs. Otherwise they're typical Michelin tires - quiet, smooth, boring. Exactly what I want for a truck that's mostly used on the road.

 

how you liking the KO3s? Been going back and forth between those and the ridge grappler.

 

ANyone running these on their tuck yet?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tire-Yok...62829?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=17465

Lots of good reviews on the new design!

 

I'm running the last gen yoko geo g015s and I love them. but i am very curious to hear more about the g018, haven't seen many video reviews available yet.