What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I’ve got the windshield top gasket covered in electrical tape and I’m still getting leaks in downpours so I’m hoping the third brake light is another culprit.

 

Having experience with water leaks from a dealership standpoint, the third brake light would have been my first go to. I see more third brake light seal failure than I do windshield seal failure

 

Bring your own dogs?

 

I tried to bring you…
Bring your own dachshund

 

No more state computers. Wow. I guess that'll save em some money on the cost to own and maintain their inspection computers, plus the audits.

 

Thanks @daveeasa.
I’ll look into the reverse and tuck the gps antenna in. The manual does say that you can't have it in a “closed console,” so we’ll see how it works out.
After googling for a few minutes, sounds like alpine requires you to set the brake, release it, and set it again to view the settings. Internet has mixed reports of the bypasses working.

 

I guess that means TX must also be doing away with the gas cap pressurization test

 

Lots of people just installed alpine and you need the brake bypass to use the unit to its fullest, most of these guys had no issues with the modules they picked up from flea bay I believe
https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-great-hu-install-of-2023.129229/

 

I don’t see how they can keep it. North Carolina did away with that back in 2009. I was a North Carolina state inspector up until I moved to Texas. I should just take the inspection glass here.

 

You should, I mean if I could pass it, most of y'all here could
I need to retake it though, mines expired.

 

This is an easy one. Put a piece of clear packing tape completedly over the 3rd brake light (HMSL), so it's completely sealed in a bubble, with the tape contacting paint in a solid perimeter around the light housing.

Clear packing tape specifically. I wouldn't use electrical tape, it doesn't bond as water-tight as packing tape. If it's still leaking, you know it's 100% impossible the HMSL is the source. If water stops, scAmazon has a replacement seal.

 

This is what I bought (and it worked great) for my Alpine ilx (w650) but it's no longer available on scAmazon:

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I did find that exact unit by MicroBypass listed on a few other websites and on fleaBay by searching for "MicroBypass Alpine"

However, it appears PAC - which is a brand I'm more familiar with and trust a bit more - also makes a unit that's less expensive. It's the TR-1 (but not the TR-4!!) and works for Kenwood and Alpine units alike. SonicElectronix carries it (link) and I see them on fleaBay also.

 

It's definitely good stuff, it's what I used to get the grime off my camper. But read the warnings on the label, I sore I saw something funny on there. And don't inhale the stuff, ugh. Since you already have the bottle, I posted the recipe over here to refil with: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1752#post-3379382

Oh, and the clear version smells awful. It almost smells like mildew and rubbing alcohol to me.

Wait ... did you use an amp adapter that lets you keep the factory amp, or an amp bypass to use your head unit for sound?

Amp adapter typically kills your ability to fade - this is a known issue. Amp bypass lets you to retain the ability to fade/balance, by linking your head unit directly to the speaker output wires at the OEM amp.

 

I assume that with most stuff but surprised to hear it about Dawn. When something is sprayed like that it's almost impossible to not inhale it unless you mask up.

 

Thanks. I'll check it out.

Thanks shifty for the parking brake bypass info.
I used a bypass for the jbl amp.

$36 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Metra 70-8117. It's more than possible I am misunderstanding how something works. Hopefully, I'll get the parking brake issue dealt with, be able to open the settings on the alpine, and fade will be right there and fully functioning.

 

It hurt my lungs and irritated my sinuses, and I'm the kinda guy who's unaffected with chilling in a room full of PB Blaster and even MEK doesn't seem to screw with me, although I know better than to hang out with it.

I think it's because Powerwash is such a high concentration of isopropyl, maybe?

Ok, I feel like we chatted about this before, I remember someone posting publicly about looking into that harness recently. You're kinda in uncharted territory there, in that I haven't seen others using it. You probably hooked it up correctly, but that specific harness is only 2 channel (L/R) and not 4 channel (Front L/R, rear L/R). Hop in a call or online chat with Crutchfield support. They should be able to confirm.

 

I like the PAC TR stuff.

 

Like Shifty said. I would use a wire wheel (cheek poker) and clean up as much as you can reach. Once it's cleaned up, then lather it up with the POR. Thats about all you could do with it for the interim.

 

I used to really like the alpine double din stuff when they first came out. And I coveted the 7909 and 7800 but never owned one. They sure had some nice stuff back in the day.

dunno how I feel about floating screens. Seems like everyone is doing them, all the new Hondas all have the same basic screen growing out of the dash. And I don’t really like giant screens in the dash. I’m tough to please. I do like my ‘16 and the Pioneer 6600 a whole lot though.

 

That's why I like my iLX Alpine (w650). I wish it supported wireless CarPlay, I'd like to give it another shot, looks like it's improved over the years. But it does everything I need, bluetooth audio, and it's just a nice looking screen, sleek, no garish buttons like most others have.

I've still got a spare OEM 86 radio I wouldn't mind installing, but losing 4.1 RCA outs would be a killer for me with my setup.

 

The ilx w650 is on my wishlist, but its pretty low on the priority list. Glad to see its shifty` approved ™

Currently working on my suspension order and trying to talk myself into some spc upper control arms.

 

those wonky looking spc UBJ's might be 1/2 ton chevy bits, available from any local parts store.


I know the bolt in ubj's on the jba UCA's i ordered are 1/2 ton chevy bits.

 

Save some $$. Buy the Eibach branded version. Will shave off $200-400.

 

Im after the extra adjustment though. With something like that I would still be limited to the factory Bj location.

The SPC uca's have up to 4° of caster adjustment and up to 2° of camber adjustment. Im also considering the JBA uca's with 3° of fixed caster and no additional camber adjustment.

Both are probably overkill, but if I'm going to do bushings and balljoints anyway, now would be the time to do it.

 

It looks like the Eibach and Mevotech branded units are in short supply. I'll do some more digging before I make a decision.

 

Eibach should be readily available? They show as out of stock at their site but that’s been the case for a while now. If Eibsch is out stock everything should be because they’re the same part with a different box skin, I’m sure all drop shipped from same warehouse or some crap.

I got mine from Elite Race Fab, they don’t appear to be the cheapest anymore. I’m seeing prices as low as $670. I guess you could call one of these places and confirm stock.

Ordering the Mevotech would be a bitch, you have to order left and right independently and they always seem to be out of one or the other.

 

Oh and this thread has all the info you need: https://www.tundras.com/threads/mevotech-ucas-same-as-spc.60435/page-6

 

@RUSTYNUTS has some spare off roading UCAs (MCM maybe?) that he might want to unload, if you ask gingerly.

 

Did some digging and I found a set of Eibach's for $678 shipped. All the usual places I like to order through are showing out of stock, but suspensionhouse.com seems to be well reviewed and with their Christmas discount code and free shipping its the best price I found.

Im still not convinced though, I'll have to do some more noodling about it.

 

Looking sweet!