2001 Tundra problem starting

Hey guys, I’m new to this forum, I’m 17 and have an 01’ tundra that I’m having starter trouble with. Sometimes it doesn’t happen at all, but usually about once a day. It all started out of random, I went to crank the truck up, turned the key and there was a click and then nothing happened. I figured my battery was dead, jumped it and it fired right up. After that now almost every time I try and start it it clicks and then absolutely nothing no matter how long I hold the key over. But, if I rapidly turn the key from the off to the start position 10-15 times it will eventually crank up. I’ve done everything I can to my knowledge to pinpoint the issue and I was really hoping you guys could give me some pointers on what could be going wrong here. Thank you.

 

Loose or corroded ground connection?

 

Typically it's not the starter, unless someone installed an aftermarket starter at some point. Curiosity's sake: How many miles? And which engine, V6 or V8? Both important details.

Go to the local auto parts store to have the battery tested for cold cranking amps: Voltage doesn't start cars, amperage does.

Also, check battery cables for tightness and internal corrosion, that's a common culprit of failure-to-start issues. Need an example? https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...-terminals-you-lazy-sods.131635/#post-3347833

 

i used to carry a 24” long metal pipe in my tundra so that i could smack the side of the starter with it. It worked for a while, but eventually a new starter had to be installed. Not easy on the 4.7 v8.

No doubt it’s waaaay easier to investigate the battery cables first.

 

Sounds like it could possibly be the starter solenoid or a loose or bad connection.

 

Do what Shifty says. If battery and connections and grounds all check good, my money is on the contacts in your starter solenoid. You might want also try bypassing starter relay with a jumper to see if it’s that although not common failure. Do you know if starter is OEM original? If not replace with a Denso starter which is same as OEM. If OEM, you can fix it by replacing the copper contacts and copper plunger in the starter solenoid. The bad news is you have to remove the intake manifold to access the starter. It’s tedious but doable DIY job and you’ll need set of wrenches, sockets and a torque wrench. There are some good videos on YouTube. Jaxon you didn’t state where you are located but some nearby may be able to help you. Best wishes and post us on your progress.

 

Starter. Contacts. A new starter (usually around $200 or so for OEM (can upgrade to the 2.0kw while your at it), or a set of $15 or so contacts for your existing starter will likely be the fix. You’ll also have to spend $30 or so on Intake gaskets. These have gotten much cheaper thankfully.

 

I'm super suspicious of the battery specifically. Specifically because "I jumped the truck (i.e. was pulling cold cranking amps from another source) and it fired right up"

I think if @Jnygard9 takes the battery to any chain auto parts store to have it tested, they'll come back with it having <200 CCA, probably <100. Which will absolutley produce the symptoms he's describing.

But the 'If I tap the key enough' could be corrosion in the wires, loose terminal, or starter contacts. I'd be shocked if the contacts went out before 150k miles though, unless this truck was something that got started 20-30 times a day its whole life.

@Jnygard9 what happens if you jiggle the cables under the hood while turning it over? Does it fire up?

 

i have replaced every suspicious ground I could find and I also replaced both terminals

 

I’ve had the battery tested at 2 auto parts stores (came back fine) and even put I new battery in with 800 CCA. Still had the issue.

 

Sometimes after I mess with wires it will start. The other day I got stranded and cleaned every connection to the battery because I didn’t know what else to do. And what do you know it started. But I had the problem again the next morning. I have a feeling it has something to do with wires.

 

Starter is original. The starter itself is as strong as when I got it. It just seems like it is not receiving enough power to crank. I think you’re on to something with contacts.

 

My thoughts as well.

 

it is a 4.7

 

Burned contacts in the starter solenoid cause the single “click of death” not weak cranking. Post some picks of the area around your battery and fuse box.

what happens if you jump it to another car with its engine running? Does it start reliably in that situation.

 

How many miles?

I'd check the battery cables for internal corrosion next - you saw my link, right? It's crazy how much corrosion can get up in these things. Typically the corrosion is in the last 1"or so of cable, and gets up under the sheath as you'll see at my link.

The connection that goes from the (+) battery cable into the fuse/relay box can also cause all kinds of fun issues when it shorts, it's happened to a couple of people here.

Last but not least, you should be aware since you have the 4.7L, if you park outside and there are ANY rodents in your area - mice etc. - they're notorious for getting up under the intake manifold and chewing up wiring for the knock sensor and starter. They like to nest up in there, there's tons of pics on this forum of that.

If you do replace the starter, only buy Denso brand and make sure you replace the intake manifold gasket with Denso or Fel-Pro (or similar high-quality brand), ask @bmf4069 about his experience with buying that gasket from a random name brand manufacturer

Too many people have come on here and bought whatever the parts store carries, only to have it fail within 2-4 years. Denso is the OEM manufacturer, when purchased from a reputable place (not scAmazon/fleaBay) it should last another 10-15 years easy. Or you can buy parts store crap which typically have lifespan of 2-5 years, so you're buying new and replacing every 2-5 years instead of paying more one time and replacing every 10-15. Don't buy into the "lifetime warranty" bullshit, it just means they will replace it indefinitely b/c they know it's gonna die, this is a 2-3 hour job, they're not paying your labor!

 

PS - search this page for the word "Rodent" in this thread:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

You'll get links to pics of what the nesting looks like!

 

I will go get some pictures, when jumped it has started every single time.

 

I was unaware of the corrosion up in the wires like that. I think I will go investigate that before yanking the intake manifold. And the rodent situation is new to me but definitely a possibility.

 

Yup, this is what some have found up under their intake. That's the starter at the north end of the nest.

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And careful which intake gaskets you choose, taken from BMF's experience - this was "ITM" brand after an abnormally low amount of miles. In my opinion, either get Fel-Pro brand, or buy OEM so you can avoid crap like this. You'll want to replace the gaskets to avoid leaks and other problems:

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Alright I pulled apart the suspect wire about and inch and a half, looks brand new

 

Yup, that one looks good.

One thing you can do to verify grounds aren't your issue is to get a couple feet of fat spare wire, and run a temporary jumper from your negative battery terminal over to a ground on the engine block. If you find it starts every time with that ground in place, you know you've got an issue with a bad ground somewhere. If not, maybe the starter just needs a rebuild. If you can rebuild the OEM starter, I'd run with that. The starter internals are more than likely fine, the rebuild isn't hard, and the rebuild kit costs a fraction of the new part. But a bunch of guys have priced out OEM starters on here, and you could always get the upgraded cold weather OEM starter and swap that in. Maybe give you a little more gusto.

 

Awesome, gonna give the ground test a shot.