Ask the Detailer

try mixing water and liquid fabric softener in a spray bottle 10:1. Spray interior and let dry over night. Makes quicker work (removes static).

co worker said to just use static guard. Haven’t tried it yet.

 

I have something similar to this. I only needed it for one vehicle but it worked great.

 

Lilly Brush

https://www.lillybrush.com/

 

Saving PPF....corners of this Rav4s PPF was peeling and dirt was being trapped in the adhesive. If this happens to you, you can save it so at least the majority of the ppf remains to protect.

I have all types of vinyl tools so a sharp edge vinyl specific razor was used to lightly score (think you're touching a knife to a balloon...very gently glide) along the edge of the lifted portions. Peeled the garbage vinyl off. Used some Rapid Tac adhesive remover (new to me, unreal product 10/10 recommend) to get the grimey adhesive off. Then a light polish to blend the line as best as possible. It won't be perfect because there will be a visible ppf UV protection line if the PPF is old, however the goal here wasn't perfection...just save the majority of the PPF and make it look better.

Close up at the end to prove it's still there.

 

Here's a pic of Rapid Tac if you want to pick some up off Amazon. Sort of expensive but it beats everything I have used (and I've used a lot, to include mineral spirits and paint thinners).

 

I’m going to have to try this out. The red Tundra has PPF on the sides that looks like absolute garbage after 12 years. I’ve been hesitant to try and remove it as I’m worried it could take some paint with it after so long.

 

Likely won't. If it's that far degraded it'll just come off in tiny pieces but should be fine on the paint. Just pickup some of that adhesive remover....came off like butter with a plastic razor.

 

I ordered the adhesive remover and already have the razor blades. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

Let me know how it works out for you. 100% follow directions. 60 seconds, no longer than 120. And use a paper towel. A yellow microfiber I was using started bleeding onto the PPF and stain...luckily a quick polish removed it but I freaked for a second.

 

Glad you said that because that’s exactly what I’d have used.

 

Yup. Wasn't a big deal after a light machine polish but it happened quick and any longer I think the staining would have been more permanent. White paper towel for sure.

 

Thanks for posting this....having the same issue with PPF on my '13 Tundra......was going to use the old piece as a template and completely replace it...might try this approach first. It's a small piece right at the front corner of the bed

 

Definitely a cheaper option. Make sure where two sides come together (if applicable for your section), round out the corner. Sharp corners tend to peel easier and quicker over time.

 

It's just a single piece......and it's not quite as bad as what you have pictured....still bothers me though

 

Figured you guys might be able to answer this. I haven't been able to find the part number. I want to replace this PPF on my truck:

 

What wax do yall recommend does a white vehicle? Have to detail the old ladies RDX very soon

 

I'd personally just say to use Griots 3n1 ceramic spray wax. I've been using it lately on the wife's white ride and it lasts about 7-9 months. Easy to apply and can even use as a drying aid. Just my opinion

 

I will use it after I wax it. It hasn't been waxed or polished in quite some time. So it's definitely due a good 3 hour detail event. Haha

 

This is the best I can find. Part #66245-0C030
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234812591554

 

Don't quote me, but i don't believe you're gonna get as good as performance putting it on top of another wax since it won't want to bond to it as well.
doing the prep work of course is good to prep the paint and clear up any faults in it, but i don't believe the griot's is meant to be used as a topper on top of wax or sealants. i think it's supposed to be used as a stand alone sealant

 

Thanks a ton!

 

Don't wax. Just use 3 in 1. If you want to polish to shine it up a bit beforehand, use IPA after to wipe it down then apply the 3 in 1.

 

Thanks for the information folks!!

 

Griots 3 in 1 is all you need. Waxing it prior is a waste of time. You would be better served to go through a clay stage (at least), and then follow up with a polish to handle any marring from the clay. Top it then with Griots 3 in 1 and give yourself 6-9 months of solid protection.

 

Could not have said it better myself. Claying with a wax or sealant is a new one on me

 

I will do this too. If I’m polishing I’ll “clay” with the foam.

but now that I have a coating I will still do a “wash, clay and wax” with the clay towel a few times a year, but I’ll likely use. Rinseless wash for this as I prefer rinseless. I usually only foam when I’m polishing.

 

Ceramic coating on raw aluminum wheels that are polished? Or clear coat and then ceramic? Going to lose any brightness of the aluminum? Pros and cons? Thanks experts!