General Supercharger Thread

Magnuson 1900 CAD model uploaded to GrabCAD, and link is on the first post too: https://grabcad.com/library/2007-2021-tundra-magnuson-1900-supercharger-1

 

My M console came, PSB-1 fits like a glove, need to find more gauges.

 

For you HP tuner guys: do you actually disconnect and reconnect the battery before re-flashing the truck like the warning that pops up after flashing a tune says?

 

Never done that during my tuning sessions

 

The only thing with the battery I do is hookup the charger before flashing.

 

Same here.

 

I do, it was also in the remote tuning instructions as per DAP. I believe I would flash the file while connected to a battery charger, and then disconnect the battery for 5 minutes after flashing before starting the truck again. Didn’t know it was an option not to!

 

I never disconnected the battery between flashes with VF, so I was surprised to see HP saying to do that and I wasn't sure what the purpose was

 

Never once have I done that. And I've flashed tunes back to back in a couple minute span.

 

This. And full disclosure, I don't use a battery charger anymore either. I'm not going to carry one everywhere I go hunting for an outlet to plug it into as some random highway rest area.

 

I am definitely the outlier. I have disconnected my battery when the tune has been drastically altered. My thinking is that it thoroughly wipes any long term "learning" that the ECU has done, therefore giving me a more accurate data log. I've found this to be true as it applies to LT fuel trims.

If its only quick changes, then I DGAF and just keep the battery connected with a 5amp Noco.

 

Drive down highway, datalog, pull over, adjust tune, flash, drive back down highway, datalog, pull over, adjust tune, flash.

But if you brick your ECU it isn't my fault

 

100%

 

I recently found out is that some learned values aren't erased when the battery is disconnected, some require manually resetting through techstream (or another device)...not sure which are which though.

 

I'm sure that technically, we're all doing something incorrect.

 

I'm not saying it's incorrect, just clearing up an assumption that I too was making. Spent a lot of time going back and forth with the D2A guy before we realized disconnecting the battery wasn't doing anything for us with regards to the throttle body learning.

 

Ask my Wife, I do virtually NOTHING right.

lol

 

I wasn't referring to what you were saying, sorry. I was speaking more generally about the flashing/tuning.

 

Well alrighty! You've saved me from needlessly disconnecting my battery... and setting the fckng clock over and over.

 

I was getting way more irritated with losing certain radio settings.

 

I never did until I learned the hard way and ended up needing a new ECU.

 

I've bricked mine twice...

 

What? Really?

 

WOAH... so what were the circumstances under which y'all bricked them?

 

I was using VFT. It was a long time ago and I can't recall the exact circumstances, but I'm sure it was user error on my part. They can be recovered, and mine was on both occasions, but I'm told that it's specific to each ECU version. I'm still using the factory stock ECU. Basically, you'd have to pull the ECU and pry the case off and solder a resistor to specific places on the circuit board that places it into a flashable state when power is reapplied. Then reinstall the ECU, flash a tune, then pull it back out to unsolder the resistor and reassemble. I don't know if this can be done with HPT though.

 

Thanks for posting this. The instructions I've seen never mentioned temp values as part of procedure. Good to know the complete rundown.

 

I guess today is milling?

 

Beautious...

 

Doubt many of you guys are also on Tacomaworld, but @JustDSM and OTT recently made an announcement on their 3rd gen Taco 3.5L tunes getting SEMA certified emissions approval, and CARB approval pending

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-overland-tailor.759590/page-66#post-29373038

 

Wonder what's next....