What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Alright I get it LOL

 

Just spoke to toytec about returning the AAL's and they were super cool about it. Really glad I went with them for the front struts, very pleasant ride so far.

 

FTFY

I find them a bit stiff, thhe Aluma Boss coilovers.

 

I had some parts show up too. Your job looks easier than mine.

I had a much better buying experience this time from Serra Toyota of Birmingham. I'll use them again.



#OemOrDie

 

Birmingham did me right. Probably because Eric F doesn't work there

 

Changed out all the coils and put an OEM MAF in(rip PHM). Not too bad. About a 2 beer job. I heard you weirdos like pics so here you go...

I think I need a new ground ring...


Duralast MAF just to get me by.



New OEM MAF








New coils.




Looks like I have a bit of a leak. Ehh.


After I got the coils in I noticed one was different. So I checked the boxes. I have 3 that are different.






You can see where I sharpied the cylinder numbers from my VC job. Kinda neat it lasted almost 5 years.


Passenger side done. This is when I noticed the different coil.


Drivers side done.


The old coils.


Drivers side.


Pass side.


The biggest crack of the group. #7 cylinder.


I thought about it....



The pics of the coils don't really do it justice. All but one of the coils is cracked, and it's because it was replaced in 2014 the 1st time I had the truck. The drivers side coils are also way more cooked, lending credence to @shifty` theory the drivers side head runs hotter. Which I'm sure we've proven before, just adding to the pile.

After I fired it up, it shot up to 2k, came down to 1k, then went down and almost died. Shot up to 2k, and repeated that 2 more times. Shook like a mf'er, smelled like gas, and was generally not ok. I gave it a minute and cleaned up my tools and took out the trash. Gave it about 10 minutes and took it around the block. The block is about a 2 mile drive around the highway. 60 mph tops.

My 1-2 and 2-3 shift hesitation are gone. Butt dyno says it feels ever so slightly stronger, but more than likely a placebo. Pulled in front of the house and left it in drive and it shook just a tad. Put it in park and it kinda hunted around for idle a bit, and smelled of gas. It smoothed out enough that I could feel a shudder every second or so. Not rhythmic, random. The "big block at idle" feel is gone, but not sure if that's the MAF or coils. I still have more to do. A lot more.

My brakes pulse coming to a stop.
Parking brake is weak at best.
Rear brakes? Pffff.
Serpentine is starting to squeal.
Timing belt is probably due.
Radiator had steam from between the tanks at 10° last year.
Finish diff breather relocate.
Add AAL from Panhandlemonium.
Lift front coilovers to match AAL.
Re-align.
Fix/replace 1000w amp.
Fix cab leak above rear window.
Driver window rattles when partly down.
Fix stupid CV axle leak.
Oil change.

Yeah, he's a handful. But dammit he's worth it. Any questions, comments, concerns, or stories about the time you got drunk in Everett Washington and broke your friends camcorder so he tried to spoon out your eyeball so you ran away and ended up sleeping in a k-mart overnight feel free to share!

 

@bmf4069 It's past time for a brake fluid flush, my man

 

I'm guessing all three of these are potentially related.

Only when dead-cold, or when hot also? Asking for a reason. There's a TSB for momentary squeal at cold start but IDR whether it's applicable to your year.

Both of mine do this. Annoying as hell. I'm fairly certain it's actually the seal that goes from the window track, up and around the window opening. It's ultimately what the window dead-ends into, and I think it's that U-shaped rubber seal that's getting compressed and not "holding" the window steady on the vertical run/rail along the a-pillar. I suspect stuffing some backer rod creatively behind that seam will fix it, but I need to buy some backer rod and play with it. I mentioned it on here to someone else, they tried it and said it stopped the rattle.

 

Me and @Mr.bee flushed them last year during Panhandlemonium. Twice. I think. We were kinda drunk. I know they got flushed at least once.

Yeah, the 3 brake problems are all related. I dunno if you remember back when I first did my axle seals, but long story short I've never had rear brakes in this truck. I did the WL upgrade in March of 19, and they've done 100% of the braking since then. I fucking hate drums. If I get a decent bonus this year I may SOS them.

The serpentine I just noticed today, after the idle smoothed out. It'll be replaced with the TB job I'm about to start planning. SHOs should be gone this month so i'll have my driveway back.

PHM(rip) mentioned something about a 10mm bolt on the end of the door. He tightened it and it stopped the rattle IIRC.

Edit: actually, let me ask @des2mtn. Don't you have the SOS kit? Is it worth it? Isn't there another on here who has rear disks?

 

Nah, he did something else, and I don't agree it's the "right" way, but do agree it's one cheap way to skin the cat, since replacing the seals I'm talking about is a fairly costly affair. But backer rod is cheap, I just need to find a place to get about 5ft of the stuff in a few diff't diameters.

Think of the vertical channels (inside the door) as perpendicular slides, the window riding up and down in between them. His logic was, basically, if the window wasn't fitting loosely between the channels, this problem would be solved. So for the vertical channel below the rear view mirror, he re-drilled into the door at its lower mount point in a way that reduced the distance between the lower section of the rails. Effectively making the channels/rails "grab" the window tighter, going from this:

​

To this:

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I've got issues with drilling into stock sheetmetal like this. There HAS to be a better way that's not invasive, and won't exacerbate rust.

Anyway, if you want to read more: https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-professional-hand-model-reinvestment-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/page-7#post-184042r

 

Got a shop press? Re-arch them yourself. Kind of an ancient/dying art, but totally doable.

 

Probably died for a reason. I read that results vary. Also longevity of results varies. I am however crafty and cheap and would give it a go!

 

Doing the @NUDRAT special with @jpink today.

 

Same.

I have had good results de-arching in the past, but I can see how you will be fighting settling/sag going the other way. Results likely vary depending on the metallurgical composition of the springs too.

I'll be doing airbags on my truck when I build the camper tray, but the OEM springs look like shit. I'm planning on doing a little re-arch/custom pack building in conjunction with the bags. I cant bring myself to pony up the $500 for new leafs when I can probably get the results I want while enjoying some quality shop time.

 

Hell yeah, and you managed to find no-flare to match, that's awesome! @jpink you're a lucky dawg. Best part is, you don't need to worry about dicking up the old bed strapping in the new one.

 

@FirstGenVol and @jpink very cool! I am trying to get bed panel dent fixed right now.

 

Don’t take any sudden curves or you’ll wreck both beds.

 

If it slides over the edge, it’ll drop down on the side of the bed of the truck carrying it. It doesn’t take a lot of centrifugal force to overcome the friction of the wood and flexing the tie down straps.

 

We have 4 ratchet straps holding it down inside the bed. The yellow one is just for peace of mind. It's so secure that when I try to move it, the whole truck is shaking.

I slapped it and said "this thing ain't goin nowhere" in my best southern accent.

 

Yeah, that criss-cross strapping for the bed tie-downs is pretty f'n clever. Exactly what I'd do. I suspect you could probably get away w/o the under-wheel-wheel strap with how those are setup, but anything to stabilize the overall will reduce strain on the other straps in the event of major event.

​

 

Today, I de-cluttered and organized my toolbox. It was a total mess before.

 

The inside lid needs stickers

 

I wasn't aware that was a thing. Explain?

 

It's just fun to fill the lid with stickers. Especially car part sticks. Like the ones that come with Bilsteins or Icons or Kings etc

 

Gotcha. All I have is a Husky sticker that came with my socket set.

 

I mean, I'm sure we could probably get everyone to send a few stickers your way if you know you'll be keeping that thing. Most people do beer, park/monument stickers, music stickers, auto supplier stickers, etc.

I've got a lot of extra stuff on hand, I toss them all in a large manilla envelope.... Kicker, Bilstein, Toytec, Diode Dynamics, Raceline, Method Racing, and a bunch of other random stuff. I have a TON of craft beer stickers. And some cycling stickers. And some band/music stickers.