Engine Light

The following codes came up when I went to auto zone

P0430
Code P0430 indicates that the bank 2 catalyst system efficiency was below threshold for a predetermined period of time

P2445
Secondary air injection system pump stuck off bank 1

P2445
Secondary air injection system pump stuck off bank 1

P1445
Secondary air injection system switching valve No.2 bank2 stuck closed

C1241
Low or high power supply voltage

Any mechanics that can put those in layman’s terms?

 

What Do My SAIS Error Codes Mean? | Hewitt Technologies (hewitt-tech.com)

 

I’d look to resolve the P1241 by cleaning the MAF and test the APP sensor if you have one and then get a new secondary air injection pump $$$ or put in the Hewitt bypass so you never have to worry about it again.

 

Which engine? Kinda important in some cases, I'll assume V8 here. You should really put that in your truck info for your user profile (Vehicle One-line Description)

P0430 => This is likely a red herring, and your actual problem is either the upstream or downstream sensor. ONLY use Denso brand replacements. DO NOT buy those from fleaBay or scAmazon, as they're known for knockoffs.

P2445 / P1445 => Secondary air injection. Expensive repair. You can either repair with OEM parts and you'll be good for another 15-20 years, or use a bypass kit, which isn't emissions legal. Part alone for OEM is around $600. You need to remove the manifold, disconnect fuel rail, etc. so it's an involved repair. Expect ~$1k-2k with OEM parts. Non-OEM parts ... expect any non-Denso branded part to need replacement in 3-5 years or less. This is why it's recommended to go OEM once - anything that requires more than 1 hour labor, always use OEM, because non-OEM parts have a typical lifespan of 3-5 years max.

C1241 => Are you running an AGM battery, by chance? Are you still running on the factory Alternator?

 

If you're handy, you can do the same thing the Hewitt bypass does for $40 in wire, connectors, a relay, and a resistor.

 

Yup, I've posted the plans here on the forum somewhere, as has one or two others. Fairly certain links are in the megathread. Search the thread for "bypass" to find both links. Also @NH06Tundra if you search the thread for P2445 you'll find a link to a TSB from Toyota outlining a condition which may be happening with your truck on those codes.

But the big takeaway for me is, your cats are fine, I'd put new Denso upstream/downstream sensor on passenger side; look up the correct part# @ www.densoautoparts.com b/c there are often part# differences with 2WD vs 4WD.

 

So should I be seeing my mechanic or an exhaust shop? My mechanic doesn’t do exhaust. Thanks for everyone’s input, it is extremely helpful, as always on this community.

 

Not sure your skills. The exhaust sensors are easy DIY unless extremely rusted. SAIS pump replacement is a bit more difficult because intake manifold has to come off.

 

Yup. ^^

O2 sensors are not exhaust. It’s a wired sensor, held in by a bolt/nut, that sniffs your exhaust pipe not long after it exits the engine. If you’re in the rust belt, they can be a pain in the ass to break loose but it’s just a single nut holding them in, and a 10-20$ specialty ratchet attachment at any auto parts store will help you get em off. Most shops charge 1/2hr labor per sensor, and labor at my local shops is $50-150/hr depending which I choose. You only want to buy Denso brand sensors to replace, else you will likely be back here with more codes later asking “what the heck?!” Denso sensors usually cost between $30-$100 each depending on your year and engine, and these are parts that show up with knockoffs/counterfeits on scAmazon and fleaBay.

But your code summary is really this…

The first code says you have an exhaust problem (passenger side catalytic converter is bad/dying) but 90% of the time when we see this specific code, or its twin P0420 for the drivers side, it’s actually one of your O2 sensors dying on the bank described (passenger based on the code), and it’s sending bad data to the onboard computer which tricks it into believing the catalytic converter is dying. A mechanic who doesn’t regularly work on these 1st gen Tundras will probably want to replace the catalytic converter, but they’d be wrong to do that, and replacing the cat can cause other issues also. Instead, you should replace both the upstream and the downstream O2 sensor on the passenger side exhaust (bank 2, because, again the driver side would be bank 1). Likewise, again, use Denso brand sensors if you truly want to fix this problem in the longer term, I cannot stress that enough.

The middle three codes…. All secondary air injection system (SAI) The SAI pump and its valves are not exhaust, but again, it’s linked to the exhaust system… and it is expensive, and it is difficult to service because it lives under the big black knurled intake manifold on top of the engine, lots of stuff to disconnect to reach it. Again, I’d check that TSB I mentioned and gave a link to, if you can’t click the megathread link above, and search for “P2445” to download and read the Toyota document and see if it applies to you, if your truck is affected, that’s unfortunate. While you may just need to replace the SAI valves, which are waaaaay cheaper, like 1/4 of the pump cost, your truck is at an age where the pump is expected to fail soon enough anyway, it’s really one of those “probably should do it while in there” things, because it’s 2-4 hours of shop labor time to do the valves alone, making it worthwhile to just spend the extra $600 on a new OEM pump from the stealership. Or if you’re handy with electronics and aren’t in an emissions-inspection state, the Hewitt “gen1” bypass system will effectively turn that pump/system off - after all, it isn’t required for proper operation of your engine, it’s purely for emissions purposes, and it only runs for the first 30-60 seconds you start the truck. But failure to fix OR bypass will leave you with a check engine light, which is dangerous, if that light is on all the time, how are you gonna know when something else goes bad?

The last code is weird and we rarely see. It could be a few different things, all related to charging. I would suspect the alternator is on its last leg, especially if you’re on the original alternator. Again, because this is part of the electronics/electrical system, you really want to use a Denso brand part so you get some confidence this repair will last another 15-20 years. Don’t be fooled by the “lifetime” guarantee on store bought parts - it’s total bullshit - that warranty only covers the replacement part, not the part replacement, they’re not gonna pay for the labor to pull the failed part and put the new one in.

The last bits of advice I’ll give are this:

You should read the megathread linked above before you proceed with this work to see if there’s any other considerations in there you should think about. Just read the 1st and 2nd reply text.

If you haven’t done the timing belt and water pump within the last 10 years or 100k miles, it’s overdue. If that belt snaps at anything other than idle speed, it can and will turn your engine into a boat anchor. Unfortunately, to do the job correctly most shops charge $1,200-$1,500 (4-6 hour job for a pro). You’ll want them to use the Aisin kit, the forum will auto-link this part number I’m about to type here to Amazon, DO NOT buy this part from Amazon, the Aisin kit part you want for the V8 engine is

$185 TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

TKT-021.

If you go to a dealership for this work, they will probably hand you a $3,000-5,000 estimate without the timing belt. If the timing belt is needed, most dealerships will tack on another $2,000.

If you go to a national chain auto repair shop like NTB/Midas/Meineke/etc. they’re probably going to get one or more things wrong, but they’ll give you a much cheaper estimate. I give you 0-6 months of operation before you see codes again.

This is really a case where you want to find a trusted local Toyota specialist shop. If you tell us your area (nearby zip code is fine) we may be able to help you hunt one down. I suspect they can get you done for under $1,500 on the work needed to resolve those 5 codes, +/- a couple hundred.

Not trying to scare you. If you want a real scare, look at the price of a new car. Please a relish in the fact you have a truck built with one of the most-reliable engines ever known, it will easily run 500,000-1,000,000 miles on the factory engine/transmission if you just do occasional maintenance on stuff.

 

Can you expand on this a bit?

 

If the first wall of words isn't enough ... build a bigger wall.

​

 

In the smallest font possible so we don’t have to scroll, please.

 

This is the rear one. They sell a special wrench makes getting them off easier

 

This

 

Front

 

I think I need more shots of your rear, bro

 

I went to the garage and this is what they told m3 needs to be replaced. I hope the image shows…

below

 

My question is, which converter, left or right, and is this pump the one they’re talking about?

 

Stay with OEM not the cheap Chinese copy you have listed

 

I had the SAIS fail on me 2x. The 1st time was @136k miles and was covered under warranty the 2nd time @250k miles the second time I got a Gen 2 bypass kit from Hewitt fixed the issue

there are Gen 1 @2 kits the Gen 1 kit just bypasses the system letting the ESC think it doesn’t need to turn on with the Gen 2 it comes with a new module to replace the drivers for the SAIS so instead of bypassing you are replacing. There are some codes that the Gen 1 kit doesn’t fix the Gen 2 fixes all codes associated with the SAIS

 

Do not bother with the secondary air pump. @HewittTech01 bypass it and be done with it.

 

There’s no way in hell the cat is bad. It’s almost always a bad O2 sensor. Anyone who says otherwise doesn’t know this platform very well, they’re just going by the codes alone and that’s gonna cost you $1k when it should cost you $200 or less replacing both O2 on that bank.

SAI pump, go OEM. Or bypass I guess, if you’re not in an emissions-mandatory place. But know you may still throw codes even with the bypass.

DO NOT spend money on replacing the car before swapping the upstream and downstream O2 sensor on the bank throwing the code. A dozen others before you with the same issue can’t be wrong.

 

Keep in mind I know nothing about this stuff, so what should I be ordering? What should I tell the garage?

1. I don’t want the cat replaced, rather both O2 sensors on that bank that gives error code.
2. Will the garage install a bypass kit?
3. Go with a Gen2 kit? Is this for an 06 tundra 4.7L?
4. When I looked them up I saw Gen2 and then some said 3valve Gen2 kit?
5. Does this still consist of removing the intake manifold?
6. Will a garage install these bypass kits?

 

I have a 2007 4.7L and it took the plug and play Gen 2 kit. For the 2006 it has the 3 valve kit ( I don’t know what that is)on the website they suggest professional installation for the 3 valve kit, you could call Hewitt he is good about answering questions. You don’t have to remove the intake manifold



I am sure the dealership wouldn’t install the bypass kit some garages will install the kit some won’t.

 

After looking at the 3 valve kit the wired portion of the kit has you running the wires through the firewall and tapped into the wiring harness at the ECM

if you can’t get a garage to install you could go with the Gen 1 kit

 

I wouldn’t use the gen2 kit. Others on here have had issues. And I doubt a garage will install it for you. But …

Replacing an O2 isn't that hard unless you live in the rust belt and your shit is corroded to hell. If you have someone else do it insist they use Denso brand parts or better yet look up your parts at www.densoautoparts.com and make sure you get the “direct fit” sensors, not the “universal” ones. Denso is the OEM part supplier.

 

@shifty` you are a national treasure and really appreciate all the honest and sound wisdom you provide. @NH06Tundra happy to answer any questions you have about the HT Bypass Kit. Everything stated in this thread is spot on about the SAIS. First, I want to reiterate if you do go with the repair DO NOT use Chinese aftermarket parts. As already stated they are cheap for a reason and will fail. If you think about going this rout go with Factory / OEM Denso components.

There are two Bypass Kit compatible with with your vehicle. I am happy to walk you through the options compatible with your ’06 Tundra 4.7L. That said, I can briefly provide the basic difference between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Bypass Kit. The Gen 2 (3 Valve) is a little more comprehensive and will cover both mechanical and electrical SAIS Fault codes. However, please note the installation for these units require soldering wires into the factory harness at the ECM. The Gen 1 (V36H) is the basic Bypass kit that only covers mechanical SAIS fault codes. This is install is plug & plug and much more straight forward then the Gen 2. I have included a link to our blog below that goes more in depth about the Bypass Kits.

Secondary Air Bypass Kit Comparison - Gen 1 vs Gen 2 | Hewitt Tech (hewitt-tech.com)

Gen 1 (V36H) $155

- Our V36H kit will prevent the SAIS from operating on a cold start and ECM will read as Not Ready/Incomplete. With this unit, all of the SAIS parts/components will need to remain in place for the computer to see continuity on them. Installs at Mass Air Flow sensor and Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Also, the starter relay wire will need to be ran from the bypass module to a terminal inside the fuse box.

+ Covers only mechanical SAIS error codes*

*Kit Addons needed for each the following codes

P0418 - Needs Pump Proxy Pack ($155)

P0419 - Needs Pump Proxy Pack ($155)

P0412 - Needs Valve Solenoid Pack ($75)

P0415 - Needs Valve Solenoid Pack ($75)

Installation Instructions


Gen 2 (3 Valve) $450

- Our Gen II kit emulates the operation of the SAIS and ECM reads as Ready/Completed. It also eliminates all trouble codes dealing with the SAIS with the exception of the pressure sensor. Installs at the Air Injection Driver and Air Switching Valves. (Attention: Does require wires to be spliced into factory harness at the ECM)

+ Covers both mechanical and Electrical SAIS error codes

+ Compatible with Toyota's current ECM Computer flash

+ Compatible with Flex Fuel Modes

+ Clears permanent codes

Installation Instructions

* Important cold weather note, see below in red.

*On some 2005-06 vehicles with 4.7L engines, there is a known freezing temperature glitch in the ECM that can occur when driving in near-freezing or below-freezing temperatures. If you start your vehicle in freezing temperatures, and the P2445 code displays as you near 50 mph, a glitch in the ECM is the cause. However, that is not normally how a P2445 code is thrown, and it also does not typically cause limp mode. If you have a Hewitt-Tech bypass kit installed on your vehicle, there is nothing wrong with the kit, it is a program glitch in the ECM. This glitch has been confirmed to happen on vehicles with or without the Hewitt-Tech module installed, as well as on vehicles with no other SAIS problems and even on vehicles that have had the entire secondary air injection system replaced with new.


It is also important to note that our Bypass Kits are engineered to work with Factory/OEM components. If the Air Switching Valves have ever been replaced with aftermarket parts this could cause the need to purchase Pressure Sensor Addons in addition to the Bypass Kit.


Do not hesitate to reach out if you have any additional questions,

 

On this point --> Toyota issued a TSB to this effect, just to back up what @HewittTech01 is saying. Link: https://www.tundras.com/attachments/sb-10075945-0699-pdf.856874/

That PDF should fill in the blanks with more words than either of us could type in here

And just to clarify, not bagging on their Gen2 kit. I suspect a lot of the problems folks have seen are user-induced, either because they chose to skip the blockoff plates, didn't read the instructions for soldering into the ECU, suck at soldering, or any number of other things. I feel like the Gen1 kit is a lot less intensive and basic. No doubt both are quality engineered.

 

Thanks again @shifty` you hit the nail on the head. Professional installation is highly recommend with the Gen 2 Bypass Kit because soldering wires at the ECM is very delicate procedure. If this is outside of ones comfort zone then Gen 1 is the way today. A much more straight forward installation.

Anyone with questions please do not hesitate to DM or give us a call.