General Supercharger Thread

I also have have a scan of the heads and intake ports. The blower scan turned out pretty good though! Did a full 360 scan of it since I'm here. I'll upload the supercharger scan to GrabCAD once it's processed if anyone wants to use it.

 

Yeah they spliced the black Raptor jump in towards the end. lol

Bucking Bronco was close to loosing control too. It looked like he never ran that course and was a bit more reserved.

 

Anyone else enjoying some cooler late November air? This cool air combined with my latest mods I didn’t have last winter has this thing feeling great right now. It’s hard to believe how hard it pulls especially knowing it weighs 6600 lbs. I can’t imagine additional power mods like a bigger TB. I kinda feel as though this stock TB restriction is what’s keeping it from destroying itself lol. Either that, or I’m telling myself that to keep from going further down the rabbit hole.

As it is, I really think if I removed all extra weight possible and ran on a super low DA day with stock tires that a flat 4.0 second (w/rollout) 0-60 is totally doable. The rule of thumb is each 100 lbs is worth .1 in a 1/4 mile. I’ve easily got 500lbs of crap on this thing, a lot of which is rotating tire mass that negatively effects the gearing from larger diameter as well. How hard can it be to shave off another .35 of a second? I wish I had more time to mess around with it and see what’s possible. I’d love to see someone get a sub 4 time on a stock engine.

 

Would anyone happen to know (or point me to) the torque specifications for the top plate of the Magnuson supercharger? Thinking back, I recall removing that plate (curiosity) before the install. considering at least torqueing everything down, if not adding some kind of gasket/sealant.

 

When your engine went out did you pull the SC intercooler and clean it out? When I blew mine it was covered in oil and debri. I used a little fipg and just went another quarter turn after.

 

That was me this morning when I hit 10PSI and I wasn't even at WOT.

 

dude.

I'm all over this...Houston air is cool & dense right now.

like "I'm gonna break something" cool & dense.

 

<cannon fodder>

Look how similar these 2 oils are. and these 2 oils are on either side of the price spectrum. I'm jealous of that Moly.
this was my oil report, on the left, after ~18 dyno runs - tuning the 650's.

 

What did you use to scan and what is the price tag of the device?

 

Lotus sure knew how to feed that TVS1900! Two 76mm rear feeders. This was a prototype Lexus IS-F 5.0 2UR-GSE that was initially planned for the doa 2010 Esprit prototype. The 1st Gen F engine produces 416HP /371TQ, this engine purportedly produced 620hp/530TQ.

 

It's called an Einstar and was $950. It seems to be professional grade hardware that's been simplified down as opposed to starting out cheap since the parent company makes much fancier scanners and they all use the same software. The software is free and does all the post processing, and theres multiple scan options and modes with the tightest tolerance for a big object being 0.2mm (.008") which it seems to hit consistently or better.

This shows a final scan better. I scanned the axle and then used it as reference geometry to design a new knuckle. The tire and brake caliper are also their own scans.

 

Yup - the dealership completely flushed everything

Are you saying you made them finger tight, and then another quarter turn? I remember taking that plate off ad the bolts were quite stubborn ...

 

That is a pretty good capture for that price point.

 

I think i found it - there is bolt on the blower top lid that feels like it's just about to strip... keeps turning and won't reach proper torque. I stopped turning soon as I felt it... what's the best way to save this?

 

I'd be surprised if that's your issue since that plate is pretty stout but maybe. Helicoil it, or tap to a larger bolt if you're lazy

 

well, I was looking closely at the logs to gleam some sort of ideas about where this leak is coming from ... the propane test was inconclusive, but I'm skeptical because the engine bay is filled with turbulent airflow ... probably blowing away the propane. Maybe I can find something to act a a wind block...

So - i was thinking ... the issue is usually right after an increase in RPMs... that is, a big swing from lean to rich. Idle, everything is cool... then I was remembering messing with that top cover before the install. SO... that's what has me wondering if that seal is not what it should be...

 

Certainly worth checking out, especially with how easy it is to inspect and fix.

 

@Grenades4Bacon when you get cover off use some FIPG to seal it. The bolts can get galled up and shouldn't be over torqued. The bolts are small and get them where they meet and tightened a quarter to half turn its aluminum and can strip. Use MAF spray with the red hose pointed at suspected leak areas. It flashes off quickly but will raise rpm. I found my leak by using the straw behind the snout.

 

You can remove the fan to mitigate much of the turbulent air flow. For short term diagnostics you will be fine. Just remember to but the bolts back in after you pull the fan out or your serpentine belt may go for a ride.

 

And throw a thick washers on as some studs aren't threaded further down.

 

The bolts of the top half (the intercooler) of the 2650 are to be torqued to 18 Ft-lbs if that can be used as a ballpark reference. It's sealed with an o-ring around the perimeter.

 

You'd need to leave the fan resting against the radiator, might be kind of sketch. The fan can't be completely removed without the shroud coming out as well; and the shroud won't come out without popping off the top radiator hose. It's not very friendly that way.

 

I had no issue with the engine running and using maf spray through the tube. Thanks, those bolts don't need much to strip. Sounds like the shop over torqued the cover bolts. I only used a little fipg as I re-used that o-ring.

 

For future reference ... these are the bolt torque specifications for the TVS1900

 

Thanks for the correction. I coulda sworn I pulled mine out when I did the serpentine belt and tensioners a couple years ago. But it was 3 am so I might have been imagining it.

 

Yeeeeeeaaaaaah, I think have a look to see just how sketch ... but, thinking some cardboard & duct tape might be the ticket...

 

I'm wondering if you have a faulty injector (or injectors). The throttle plate quickly closing at higher RPMs would create an immediately higher vacuum than it would at idle, temporarily drawing more fuel until the revs drop. You can see the RPM briefly bounce up as the AFR goes from rich to lean as the revs dip before settling (meaning the draw of excess fuel has stopped and is being burnt off, causing the revs to momentarily rise).

 

Castle Rock, eh? We might be neighbors lol

Could be, could be. This is my second set. With the new discovery of the blower lid having one bolt that was stripped - I've got my hopes hung on that being the problem. If not - then I'll put the stock injectors in, reflash the ecu and take another log ... that would indicate I got another bum set.

 

Man, you guys are having issues getting larger injectors that work! What’s the deal with that?! Are all of these high flown injectors all modified parts because nobody builds an off the shelf part that big? Just curious.