General Supercharger Thread

New high, truck loves cool air!

 

y'all are a terrible influence.

terrible.

 

Ha. I've watched that on a few times, too. I really liked that /Engineered series; I wish they would revive it.

 

My question is if I did this @9.5lbs slipping, where is it at 10+ not slipping

Also, @snivilous if I'm getting this high should I not risk the 2.2?

 

Out of curiosity, @e30cabrio, looking at the HP graph, is that belt slip around 5600/5700 RPM, and then fuel cut at 6200/6300 RPM? And DANG.. that torque at 2500 RPM! Is that just a dyno artifact settling down at 3000 RPM? Or is really making that much torque that low?

 

I have no idea, that's a fat bit of boost. @Mdl or @Fastlane47 are probably the ones to discuss with how much power you feel safe running. I probably wouldn't run the 2.2 if it's already knocking on 12psi, but it's kind of game theory how far you feel comfortable pushing it and not knowing how close or far the cliff of destruction is If I didn't need my tundra to tow stuff I'd probably send it and see how much power it could make

 

It'd probably be good to know where your MAF voltage is as well as injector Duty Cycle and AFR. On the 1st Gen Tacomas we were using Exhaust Gas Temp sensors to determine if more fuel was needed to keep temps down. I'm mildly surprised that it's not mentioned in our application. We're kind of guessing how fat to run at WOT to keep heat down rather than actually measuring the heat. If I recall correctly, the recommended ECT to stay below was in the neighborhood of 1400F. Unfortunately there were probably some casualties in determining that temp. No idea what that might be for the 3UR.

 

I'm not really looking to kill the motor. lol

No idea. lol

 

Who’s running a whipple and tows often? I’m not after high redline numbers, just good mid range power

 

I stand corrected, wonder if it applies to a supercharged truck:


The Straight Pipe Budget System is the most cost effect, correct way to add about 3-10hp and 10-20tq to the rear tires of your 2nd Gen Tundra.

This system reuses as much of the stock tubing as possible. The main benefit of this is not just cost, but performance!! Most Toyota Trucks and SUV’s won’t benefit from bigger diameter tubing, or shorter tubing when running stock exhaust manifolds. All Toyota Trucks and SUV’s tend to run oddball diameter tubing, especially in their tailpipe section. Going bigger in size loses a considerable amount of low end torque making the truck much less fun to drive.

Reusing the Stock Tailpipe also helps control drone. Even though your truck is Straight Piped, you’ll see less drone with our budget system than you do with many of the aftermarket ‘performance’ exhaust systems available for your truck. Even without our optional Helmholtz resonator!!

Speaking of Helmholtz Resonators, If minimizing drone is a concern, a Helmholtz resonator should be added to your system to cut out even more of it.

If you prefer a ‘Dumped Look’ consider cutting the Stock Tailpipe right after the last hanger before it turns to go out the side. This allows you to retain enough length necessary to keep from losing low end torque. Make sure to order the Helmholtz Resonator at 31” instead of the normal 26”.

We also offer this system with a built in DUMP for guys with clearance issues due to off road suspension or other types of suspension that is blocking the path of the Stock Tailpipe. But this is recommended only as a last resort since there is far better low end torque when using a full length, or really close to full length tailpipe.

If you do not have clearance issues and just like the look of a dumped exhaust we recommend cutting the tailpipe after the last hanger. This practice will give you the look, and even clearance for bumpers, bob tail, fiberglass fenders, etc. yet still keep your low end torque as if you’d never dumped the exhaust. Literally giving you the best of both worlds.

*to install the Helmholtz Resonator you must cut a 2” hole into the stock tailpipe just in front of the spare tire. (Refer to install video)

*we send any hardware and gaskets needed to install. Any gaskets or hardware not included is excluded because the stock hardware or gasket for that section is reusable.

https://dirtydeedsindustries.com/st...1-toyota-tundra-bolt-on-straight-pipe-exhaust

 

@dirtydeeds

Keith, what does this straight pipe setup sound like on a s/c’d tundra?

 

My old man’s rig. Tows great with the whipple.

 

nice!!

 

Straight pipe is gonna be LOUD - Keith’s system or not.

 

@e30cabrio for me I'd stay under 13psi. I settled at 12psi with good fueling, good tune and the added protection of water/methanol.
Heard of too many coming apart pushing them.

 

I spoke with Keith last month about having it dumped after the axle. He said I would lose low end and not like it.
But if your close to stock manifolds and piping it may be ok.

 

This is the "muffler" on my jeep. It's loud lol

 

I am working on adding meth, during the summer when it is 110+ I average in the 8's. I was happy earlier in the week at 9.9, this 11.7 was a shock!

 

If we want to push these engines, additional oil cooling will be a large part of aiding the piston durability.

 

So it’s interesting you say that. I have my own theories on the matter but would you mind elaborating? Trucks with the tow package have an oil to coolant cooler, correct? I’ve wondered about running an auxiliary cooler for engine oil.

 

I think they all have an oil cooler. New hard lines that run to the oil cooler are included with the supercharger kit. Don't see why you couldn't add a second though.

 

Put a call in with Innovate to see which wire from map sensor to run the aquamist. Didn't see which wire is used in user manual.

 

Anything that helps to cool those cylinders helps. Especially with higher psi being sought-after.

 

Pretty simple, we have seen plenty of overheated pistons take these engines out. There’s a reason they need to be run so dang rich under boost.

Roughly 1/3 of the piston cooling comes from the oil jet nozzles spraying the undersides. The stock oil cooler relies on engine coolant, and is adequate for many circumstances. But hot boosted air and hp throw tons of heat into this engine and I suspect cause the oil temp to climb quite a bit over what we’ll see when stock. Keeping the oil at a relatively lower temperature, especially under extended hard driving or towing, will help pull more heat from the pistons when they need to lose it the most.

 

Wish I had the skill to do this

 

Has anyone taken oil temp with the SC? I know we need about 220-250 deg to burn off moisture and other by products.

 

At least with a rcsb you don't have to shortencthe rear drive shaft. It's not a bad job if you have the tools and trans jack.

 

This is along the lines of what I've been thinking.

Is there an oil temp sensor from the factory? I swear I've seen a PID for it on my head unit interface via iDatalink Maestro, but I don't recall if it is greyed out or not...

What is the general consensus for oil weight running a S/C? Stick with factory 0w20 or move up to a 30 or even 40 weight?

 

I havent seen where you can view oil temp via obd? Since 2012 I've been running 40w in summer and 30w in winter. I'm sure you'll get a variety of answers and depending on what temps you encounter.

 

@Jowett. Hey Brian, glad to see you here. I can say you bring a lot of knowledge on the engine platform especially parts cross referencing with the heads and engine. Helped with issues and short comings early on with the 3urfe. Followed a lot of your posts on ttalk.