Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Can the maintenance interval be reset in Techstream?

And if so where?

 

How about a reset for the cluster? I pulled the battery & then the MET-B fuse, was told to also pull MET but did not see it. No joy.

 

This thing on?

lol

 

I will take a shot asking this here, even though the specific vehicle is not a Tundra, its a 2015 RAV4 XLE.
We asked the question over on the RAV4 forum but evidently no-one there has an answer for us, at least not yet.

So it appears that the ECU (computer for the TPMS) has gone bad and my local (Non toyota) repair shop indicate the unit is bad.
My understanding is this item is located in the rear hatch right side. Could be wrong.

After several months on back-order, the unit has arrived and installed, unfortunately it needs re-programmed
and the shop has to hire out a toyota tech to program it to the car since their scan tool or whatever couldnt handle the job..

We have used this same shop for all other facets of repair work on our Toyota's and have been pleased with their work, but now im starting
to question things. I would think this shop (ohio chain) should have known whats required and informed me ahead of time.

I have access to the scaled down version of the Tech Stream app, not sure of the version though. Would this be something we could do ourselves
with the tech stream app?

Thanks !

 

Has another mechanic taken over?

LOTSOFTOYS was last seen:
Nov 16, 2021


Anyways, my question:

My TPMS light has been illuminated ever since I went to 2014 Limited Wheels.

I have replaced the antenna and all (4) TPMS sensors in each wheel. I have reprogrammed the TPMS via Techstream an unhealthy amount of times.

Where do I go from here?

 

Oh wow - thanks for the update

 

Use Techstream to read the error codes in the TMPS Ecu.
Use Techstream to look at the live data in the TMPS Ecu, are your sensor actually sending in good data to the ECU?

 

It's now become a group effort, people who might be familiar with an issue lend a helping hand.

 

Bought my tundra 2 weeks ago. When I did a pre purchase inspection with a third party mechanic, he let me know that the battery was testing low. Even though I had driven it 45 minutes before I came to him.

I have checked it every other day or so since I got home and it has never shown above 12.4 volts.

Now obviously I can toss my trickle charge on it, then pop the top open and see if it needs any water added.

Question is this, I have 33,000 mi on my truck, so I am in the bumper to bumper warranty. Does that also cover the battery?

 

Yes you would be covered for a battery replacement. 12.4v doesn't necessarily mean you need a new battery. The battery needs to be load tested to determine replacement. A little secret, go into the dealer and tell them you have had issues starting your truck in the morning and suspect the battery. Tell them you are positive that nothing was left on. The dealership will likely replace it. We did it all the time and would have a "known" battery that tested poorly so we could provide the required paperwork to Toyota. The dealership does not want to have customers calling saying their truck won't start after the battery tested OK.

Good luck

 

Good to know. I will give this a shot

 

Called and have an appointment next Friday. Thanks for the advice! Hopefully they replace it before my b2b is up!

 

Update - This is kinda long - so please bare with me cause I need your input at the end !

So i attempted to use my laptop and the battery is totally dead, so i used an extension cord to the laptop at the car.

Tried to connect but the app would not connect, so my version of TS and or laptop is out of the question.

So - my shop also had some issues using thier hardware to set all the sensors in the new TPMS/ECU that cost me around $700 to install.
So they have to call in their "outside source" mechanic who has knowledge of Toyota systems and attempted to charge me another $150
for that service.

Of course i let them know immediately I wasnt paying for some "hired-gun" to fix my issue when they were already paid.
So that fee got tossed and he supposedly came in, but was also no able to fully setup the sensors.

According to the shop, he flashed the unit, reinstalled it and was able to pickup all four tire sensors and their readings
but the dash light would not go out.

The shop said both fobs (oem and the Viper ) were functioning properly.
Went to pickup the car while the shop was "discussing" their next move to find out the doors would not lock
using either fob and the dash light for the TPMS was doing some random flashing, not using a pattern of any sor.

Brought that up the the managers and they were stunned.... But it was fine earlier !!!!!
Not only that, but as we were standing at the car, not pressing any fob buttons, the doors locked
totally on their own.... WHAT THE HELL....

I took the car home since the shop was closing for the weekend and told them to figure it out and call me Mondat/Tuesday with a plan
to finish the job.

Its Wednesday and no call yet from the shop! BUT WAIT !!! It gets better !!!!

Saturday evening, after numerous Google searches on related issues - one thing kept coming up.
That was to remove the positive batt cable and let the car sit for a couple minutes.. to reset all functions.
So I did and waiting 10 minutes.

Reconnected the cable, tightened it up and started the car !!!

No more TPMS light flashing on the dash, both fobs working perfectly even Viper Remote start working as it should.
Absolutely nothing out of the ordinary, as if the car never had an issue..

Did I fix it? Not real sure, but whay wouldnt the shop have removed the cable, as I did?
Is this practice SOP for repair shops? Why would ggole have the accidental answer but the shop struggled?

So now im not 100% convinced the original TPMS module/ECU was bad, if all i had to do was remove a batt cable for 10 minutes
and hook it back up... to get the new unit to function properly and the FOBS to work, without any other manipulations to them.

Is this coincendence? did I get lucky? should i find another shop? or chaulk it up as a lucky guess and just motor on?

Still out $700 and no more word from the shop as I type this !

Your thoughts !

 

I'm not entirely sure where the the TPMS ECU error menu is. I'll look when I get home.

As far as the live data, that is what is odd. It only sends (2) TPMS sensors to the ECU. I can swap them around by adding them in different order, but it will never send all 4. Just 2 at a time with correct pressures. The others stay dead.

The odd thing is, this only happened after I swapped out my 2007 TSS Chrome wheels. Everything worked great up until then. I should have swapped sensors, but figured new ones would work.

 

Just getting in on this but let's keep everything simple. Do you have Techstream? If you do then you will see a tpms module listed. Do you have the ID numbers from the tire sensors? You need those numbers if you plan to program your sensors to the tpms module. Also tpms sensors need to be "woken up" by let air put or adding air to the tires.

 

I have techstream and each modules ID.
What I didn’t know is that each module had to be “woken up” prior to programming. I’ll let about 5 psi air out and then try to program each one.

I have programmed these a million times it feels like, but usually only two make it into the ECU

 

How did you find the tpms sensor IDs? Open up techstream and look at the live data for the tpms module. Air down one tire and a time and see which tire on the live data is responding. You will find out which tpms sensors are not responding. The only reasons a sensor will not respond is because the 1) the tpms sensor ID number does not match the tpms module ID number 2) the battery is dead in the tpms sensor 3) the tpms sensor has been damaged or doesn't exist 4) the tpms sensor is a different frequency (Toyota used different frequency tpms sensors).

 

What are the minimum requirements for a computer to run Techstream? I'm thinking of getting a Black Friday deal laptop to run it on.

 

It doesn't take much. I have a 15 year old small, cheap laptop with window 7 that it works on.

 

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

I bought brand new sensors and wrote down the ids before putting them on the wheels.

Currently, I’m trying to remember, but I think even with the correct IDs they read negative tire pressure. When I get home I’ll hook up my laptop and get a screenshot

Do you know the part number by chance? Is it different from 2007 to 2014?

 

So when you saw the ID numbers in techstream did they match the ID numbers that you wrote down? Where did you buy the tpms sensors?

I believe they are different part numbers from 07 and 14 but check on any Toyota website that sells parts.

 

the part numbers I wrote down are what I entered in techstream. So they matched.

I bought these : TOYOTA OEM Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Transmitter (FCC ID: GQ4-45T, P/N: 42607-0C070)

$298 Toyota OEM Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Transmitter (FCC ID: GQ4-45T, P/N: 42607-0C070)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E612UBK

They are the same part for 2007 as 2014

 

-0.23 on all sensors. I just updated to Techstream 18 and re-input all sensor ID's

 

What happens when you let air out of the tires? If nothing then the sensors are at fault. Personally I wouldn't buy any toyota parts off Amazon. There are so many counterfeit parts being sold on ebay and Amazon. The only way to know for sure that your buying genuine Toyota parts is from the dealer.

 

If these are fake, then I am impressed. Even Discount Tire could read them with their TPMs wireless reader.

 

How could Discount Tire read them but you can't read them on Techstream? If they used a hand held tpms reader that they read the the sensor information, it doesn't mean that they would still work on your truck. If the IDs are correct in Techstream then the tpms module would be able to read them unless they are not correct for your application.

 

@Ruggybuggy thanks for your advice with this. I was able to get my battery replaced under warranty yesterday.

They asked me when I got there if I had been quoted on battery replacement, I said no, it should be under b2b. They said, "well if it tests well, we can't replace it under warranty." I said test it and we'll see.

Bastards made me wait for 3 damn hours though. Pissed me right off. At the 2 hr mark w no communication, I walked in and said I wanted to see the load test results when it's done to ensure it is accurate. They said ok, just waiting on the tech. 5 mins later, they said it failed and they're replacing it.

They were 100% tryna job me. They then suggested $1500 worth of Toyota maintenance. I politely passed and said I'll be doing it myself.

 

Glad it worked out for you. Looking at the paper you posted, I would never trust that dealership with any service advice. BG extended oil life conditioner? BG fuel system service and a brake fluid service on a 2021 with only 30K?

Do you have another dealership that you can go too? As far as servicing just follow what's outlined in the maintenance schedule.

On a side note, to test if your dealer is honest. Ask for a service that is not applicable to your truck and if they say "yes we can do that for you" or do they say "your vehicle does not need that service at this time".

 

I actually live 90 minutes from the closest dealer in GR, this one is in Farmington Hills, roughly 15 mins from my in-laws. I don't plan to go to the dealership much, if ever. There are two others local to the in-laws, I will try them next time